RJSquirrel Posted November 15, 2011 Share Posted November 15, 2011 Pics! this is my new re-furbished Sanden SD508 AC Compressor (w/8.4CFM) and adjustable bracket that i will be turning into a air compressor for endless on board air: Does that Sanden unit have its own oil supply for the compressor? That's the reason the York's are so popular because they don't need oil in the lines for lubrication. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Apparently I miscounted somewhere during the transmission cooler line exchange I did a few weeks ago. I had to add another quart of ATF, but I checked the fluid level probably a dozen times when hot and it is within the notched area now. I also put some foam tape behind the license plate, it solved most of a very annoying rattling noise. Fixed the rust around the rear washer nozzle and used clear silicone to affix it as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 Dismantled VG33E brackets and plenum, fuel rail and injector harness, and cleaned the upper part of the motor. Drilled out OBX headers to fit bigger 10MM exhaust studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted November 16, 2011 Share Posted November 16, 2011 (edited) Does that Sanden unit have its own oil supply for the compressor? That's the reason the York's are so popular because they don't need oil in the lines for lubrication. the York used oil for lubrication. thats what makes them so good for air compressors, because most ac compressors use freon to lubricate, not oil. the Sanden SD508 ac compressors used freon for lubrication, but there's a few things we can do to lubricate the Sanden for use as a air compressor. 1. put a grease nipple on, block the exit port, and fill with grease. lots of people do this. most seem to have good results. some dont. 2. add a air tool oiler on the intake line, and a air/oil seperator on the outake line. or block the exit port (the same way we block the exit port for the grease) so the oil stays inside the compressor where it is needed. this is what i plan to do. (there is no down side to this method of lubrication, except the additonal expense) 3. and the low-tech way- some people manually just pour in a tbsp of oil or so before operation with good results... originally i was going to go with the York 210, because it was a bit more powerful (10CFM), and because it was oil lubricated. but i realized i didnt really have the space for a York. they are much bigger. the stock ac compressor i have looks to be very similar in size to the Sanden i have. i dont have a lot of space to work with on the TD27T. the Sanden will fit in perfectly below my alternator when i pull my stock ac compressor. (i'm secretly hoping it will even fit inside my stock mounts, it looks that similar in size, but i'm not that hopeful, that would just make things to easy). i'm pretty sure i'll have to fabricate a mount. as you can see, i already have a mount for the Sanden, i just have to make it fit on my engine. cant wait to get started on this project! mounting will be the hard part. once that is done it will be easy to build the rest of the air compressor. Edited November 16, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 I have aquired my box of fun for next weekend!!!!! Timing belt and necessary goodies, full tune up parts and new hoses! May actually dig out my radiator drop bracket and install it also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman2989 Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 Today was the little stuff~ Belts, burnt out headlight and turn signal, and rear wiper blade... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 (edited) yesterday i mounted my new stainless steel tail pipe. just a little thing, but i thought it really makes the truck look good: this is what was on there before: i also routed my rear diff breather up into the cab (between the body panels), and i put a fuel filter on the end of it to keep out dust and debri. as it was, the breather was just stuffed inside a pipe at about the same level as the bottom of the fuel tank. i thought it would be really easy to get water inside in its stock location: i also added a small secondary in-line fuel filter before my fuel injection pump because i was missing the small gauze filter that was supposed to be inside. the filter is easier to replace now in this location: Edited November 19, 2011 by shasdakota Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 i think technically you have your exhaust tip on upside down, the little drain hole is 'supposed' to be at the bottom all about personal preference though. Don't forget to extend the breathers on everything else too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shasdakota Posted November 19, 2011 Share Posted November 19, 2011 i think technically you have your exhaust tip on upside down, the little drain hole is 'supposed' to be at the bottom all about personal preference though. Don't forget to extend the breathers on everything else too! thats funny, i was wondering the same thing. didnt know what that little hole was for... it will get flipped... yeah, i'm trying to figure out what i want to do with my other breathers. they are all in the engine bay though, only the rear diff was really low, not sure if the Pathy's are the same. i got some "waterproof" breathers like this: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-Vent-Bellow-p-17158.html but i tried one on my tranny/t-case breather and it created pressure and pushed the fluid out of my dipstick. i wasnt impressed. i'm just glad it didnt get pushed out of a seal, but thats why i tried the tranny first, because of the dip stick. as soon as i got the things in the mail, i didnt understand how they were supposed to work, as they are completely sealed. i didnt understand how they would "breathe". i called the company, and they confirmed that they will somehow breathe even though they are sealed. something about the heat making the waterproof breathers expand. anyways, they obviously do not work (for me at least). i still havent called back to ask whats up... then i thought about routing the breathers in my engine bay into my air box/snorkel, but i didnt want my truck taking air from the same place the breathers were venting. plus i want to draw air for my air compressor from my air box, and i dont want it taking air from my breathers either. so now i'm thinkin i may do something similar to what i did for the rear diff breather... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 (edited) drilled out broken ez out and broken lower intake manifold stud out of the head of my vg33e about to go in. also retapped the hole and put in new stud. ready for assembly now. Edited November 20, 2011 by Nefarious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nefarious Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 assembled fuel rail, lower intake manifold, new plugs, thermostat housing, coolant pipes. motor is going in tomorrow!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 (edited) Frame rust repair. Cancer all cut out, and first 2(of ?) patches installed. Edited November 21, 2011 by RJSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clkindred Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Motor oil and filter, A/T fluid flush and fill, transfer case flush and fill and all four CV boots replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 received my 3" ac lift springs friday. I am going to try to get that along with the pan hard drop bracket installed and tbars cranked this week sometime and then ill be getting my 96+ center console soon too and then all i need is some new tires! BL will be later this winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom01Pathfinder Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 installed new drive belts...woohoo was it fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwmyers23 Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I made this Look like this (the red paint is just to cover it until I get some undercoat) Now I have to fix this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sewebster Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I'd say it's an improvement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nunya Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I can't belive that had an inspection sticker man! Keep burnin in those plates though and keep it one out of the j/y Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 And I thought mine was rusty! Looks good now, I like the red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 I made this Look like this (the red paint is just to cover it until I get some undercoat) Now I have to fix this It's sad to see all the pathys go through the pick a part down here and end up getting crushed with perfect frames, while you guys are fighting these rust problems. It's humid down here but with no salt on the road I have never seen a rusted frame on anything in the scrap yards. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lint Posted November 22, 2011 Share Posted November 22, 2011 Put on some fancy winter wipers & installed new front brake pads in 70 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 (edited) Cleaned the squirrel cage on the blower motor of the 88 had a couple of leaves in it that I could here at lows blower speeds, pulled the blower resistor and checked for other leaves and stuff. Pulled the front bumper on the 94 and replaced the rusted bumper ends, sanded it all down and shot it with flat black, now the grill looked like crap so I pulled it and the side marker lights and hit them with the flat black also left the Nissan emblem off. DAMN it looks good Edited November 23, 2011 by vagabond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Apparently I miscounted somewhere during the transmission cooler line exchange I did a few weeks ago. I had to add another quart of ATF, but I checked the fluid level probably a dozen times when hot and it is within the notched area now. AHHHH!!! I know exactly what you mean. When I was doing my ATF changes, the fluid level was kicking my ass. I couldnt get a good reading on it. The ATF would be thin above the HOT line, but it would be thicker on the dipstick at the COLD line. I was so damn confused. When I did my fluid change, I know for a fact that 4 quarts came out. I put the old fluid in old ATF bottles. But then the dipstick said that 3.5 quarts was too full. like wtf?? And it said it was too full with those 3.5 quarts for a week. Then all of the sudden it drops down to the ADD line. I didn't think using a dipstick would be that hard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heloflyboy Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Tried to figure out how to add side bar to exo-skeleton,without rear door hitting it.HHUUMM.Just does not follow lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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