RJSquirrel

Good to hear everything is working good.

Check this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23236-will-this-fit/page__p__427365__hl__70268#entry427365

If the bearings were that contaminated with mud, the entire bearing needs to be replaced, and the seals, too. Reusing the old races that were worn out has destroyed the new bearings you installed. You'll need a whole new setup. A brass punch and careful, gentle hammering, working slowing around each bearing race to keep it straight in the hub bore, you can remove and replace them yourself. Obviously, a press or a wheel bearing installation tool is preferable to the punch but it can be done. Don't use a steel punch or you'll distort the race, and you'll need new ones again. In a clutch, a short section of copper water pipe (1/2" or 3/4") can be used, but its hard to use as it distorts alot. Don't use the bearing cage to set the race. Hammer or press on the bearing cage, or they are instantly junk.

Looks good. It took two coats for the color to even out for my floor. The fumes are nasty for sure.

Are you running 4.90s in your rig? If not, that is probably why the 31s are quicker off the line. Nice work, nevertheless. I, for one, am envious.

deep stains aren't a problem. I had plenty of those. If you have the oil out and no beading, you should be good to go. Good luck !

I used U-coat-it in my shop. It's great for cleanup. It's held up for 2 years with no noticeable damage. You gotta keep degreasing the oil spots until they don't bead any water. It took me a week of degreasing/pressure washer treatments to get my shop floor clean enough to feel comfortable with applying the product. The floor coating is just like any paint job: All the effort goes under the shiny finish. Don't rush or you'll have poor results.

Just in time for me to start mine :jig: :jig:

I've bought two Calmini idler braces that fit without any issues.

Timing Belt if you don't know for sure when it was last done (65k miles for 94 and earlier, 105k miles for 95 and newer), Transmission fluid change/filter change/external cooler/external filter are the top of the list. All the rest are your typical filter/fluid changes. Don't forget power steering fluid and brake fluid flush also.

I always read your handle as IceAge G, as Ice Age Gangsta'! RJSquirrel is Rocket J Squirrel from the Rocky and Bullwinkle cartoon. I chose it at the time as I was frequently flying all over the world to solve other peoples' problems, just like in the cartoon.

Tow in 4th so you don't overload the OD bearings.

If you are planning on actually wheeling your pathfinder, consider getting a HooHaa centerlink. The factory units just don't hold up under trail use. http://www.grassroots4x4.com/

I have purchased a set, but I have yet to apply them to the pathfinder. They are heavy gauge steel, and they seem like they should fit pretty well, at least as much as I mocked up a test-fitting with them.

x2 on the drain plug tool. 13mm works for the diffs/tcase/manual trans. 1/2" *will* round out the holes. 5.5qts in a manual transmission. I had to take the front seats out and lift the shifter mechanism slightly. I tried jacking up the truck, but was afraid I'd tip it, I had to lift it so high on the drivers side to get the plug high enough. Plus, I wasn't comfortable crawling under it with it at an angle. If a jack stand were to kick out, its pancake time. If you pull the seats, be prepared to deal with rusty fasteners. Drill/retap may be in order. Use antisieze on the plugs, and any other fasteners(seat mounts, esp) to make it easier next time.

You're all good. API, not APL GL5 for differentials GL4 for manual transmissions many people also run GL4(myself included) in the transfer case with no seeming ill effect. Personally, I prefer to avoid lube with multiple compatibilities, as its not optimized for any one of them, but we just had a huge thread on drivetrain lubricants that I don't really want to resurrect.

The .45 should probably cover the rest...

Finished painting the frame! I need to reassemble the front suspension, replace the transmission, t-case and diff oils; GL4 in the trans and t-case, and GL5 in the diffs , bleed the brakes(again!), drill and retap the holes for the front skid plate, reinstall the ECUs and seats, and paint some rust spots around the windshield, and finally SeaFoam the whole mess. That should hold her until spring when a 3" lift and full front suspension rebuild and replacement of all the remaining fuel/brake hoses/hardlines is in order.

Put the first coat of paint on the driver's side half of the frame, and the second coat on the driver's front fender well. I will have gone through 5 quarts of Rustoleum, 2 cans of Rustoleum spray, 5 cans of 3M pro undercoating, and 6 cans of Eastwood internal frame coating to do the job. One more relatively nice day here in Chicago (high in the high 40s/low 50s) and I'll have the paint dry just in time for the snow expected on Thursday. Yay! Out, Out, Damned Rust!

Or Alkorahil can get you a new set based on your VIN. Its spendy, but new locks and ignition cylinders are a very nice addition. All the locks can be replaced in an afternoon, but you will need to drill out the security bolts on the ignition switch.

Sounds kinda like MrJim... Welcome!

Finished the drivers side frame rust repairs. Awaiting more Internal frame coating from Eastwood to arrive, so the truly messy part of the rust repair job can commence: Painting the frame. Ugh. Still no snow(read: road salt) in Chicago. If this is what global warming does, I'm all in favor of it.

http://ultimatetoolco.com/drainplugs.aspx

The factory "filter" is pretty much a screen, so as a filter its pretty much useless at stopping all but the largest pieces. Its not something you can just rinse out. It just should be replaced. They are not expensive. Install a magnefine inline filter in the cooler lines once you are done. They are supposed to be good for 30k miles, and actually filter the fluid.

if you have a propane torch, or better yet, one set up for MAPP gas, use it to heat the exhaust pipe near the sensor, not the sensor itself, and then put the socket on the sensor and give it a spin. Before the heat conducts into the sensor, the pipe will expand slightly, and may be enough to break the corrosion layer. If you are using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, you just ruined your torque wrench. Any readings it gives now are worthless. Throw it away, and buy a new one, and get a proper breaker bar.