RJSquirrel

Go with a 3/8" for the crows foot. its just awkward and really tight access. No attitude adjustment possible, unfortunately.

Left side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7500 Right side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7501 The stickers on them show they were made in canada. For you canadians, they are on this page too: http://ecat.crosscanadaparts.com/base/welcome.php?year=1995&make=NISSAN&model=PATHFINDER

Opened a box containing a pair of new rocker panels. Yay! Left side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7500 Right side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7501 The stickers on them show they were made in canada. For you canadians, they are on this page too: http://ecat.crosscanadaparts.com/base/welcome.php?year=1995&make=NISSAN&model=PATHFINDER

Inspect your torsion bar boots. Make sure you have replacements. All mine were cracked when I did my front end. The boot for the drivers rear is a different part number (silicone for exhaust heat) Dealer part only. Front wheel bearing locknut tool http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm You'll need a 19mm crowsfoot wrench to get the lower control arm off. Its a serious PITA. I'd add a new idler arm, and calmini idler arm support bracket. HooHaa centerlink from grassroots4x4.com. The stock ones don't last very long if you wheel at all. After a 1 week off-road trip, I needed a new one. It was scary loose on the drive home. It was brand new before I left. Tension rods are commonly rusted dangerously thin where they go through the frame. You're in Cali where rust is less frequent. Other common problem is socket in the frame where the tension rod locates may need to be repaired. Welding is required if the holes are enlarged. There are several threads on how to perform repairs. Replacement parts can be purchased for the frame. Consult member "Alkorahil" for the appropriate part #s.

The semi auto is definitely nifty technology. In practice, though, a normal automatic works fine 99% of the time, even for people who wheel regularly. The only time manual intervention with the torque converter would be needed is where extra engine braking or hill-climbing torque limiting is desired. Rev matching and the ability to shift is a definite convenience with a full-blown semiauto, but in practice, manual override would be used very rarely. Think of using the lockup switch as you would the clutch pedal, but the beauty is you'd only need to engage it when you want.

Full manual control over torque converter lockup is very nearly the same thing. There is a thread around here on how to perform the mod.

Definitely drive with OD off if you are towing, or are heavily loaded and climbing hills and the truck is unable to keep the torque converter in OD. Disabling OD will allow the transmission to lock the torque converter, eliminating much of the heat that would get dumped into the transmission. For wheeling, select the lowest gear necessary. Generally for climbs, the transmission will choose what it needs, but for descents, lower gears provide the best possible engine braking. Loose terrain may dictate forcing the transmission into a given gear. TownCivilian's recommendation on parking is definitely the way to do it, especially if the ground is sloped. If the ground is more or less level, I don't generally use the parking brake(freezing up in winter), but parking using TCs method will be the easiest on the gearbox.

White wagon wheels show rust very quickly, which is why they are rarely seen in the east It stains the paint even before it chips off. The white wagon wheels are more popular out west where rust is a much slower process.

I like #4. I think it would look good with your darker colored rig.

What I meant by "Tap Gently" is to actually tap repeatedly on each caliper with an actual hammer to help shake loose any bubbles stuck to the inside of the caliper fluid chamber, so the fluid passing through it can carry them out of the system. Stomping("Hammering") on the brake pedal can move enough fluid to break residual bubbles loose, but since I rarely have a helper with brake bleeding, I use a pressure bleeder with clear vinyl tubing attached to the bleeder valve so I can see the fluid condition and watch the bubbles coming out. Be sure to run the tubing up from the bleeder valve before curving it down into the collection container to create a trap so the air bubbles don't work back up the tubing into the caliper while you are trying to close the valve.

I'll let you all know if this place actually delivers... I'd hate to get everyone all lathered up for nothing...

Ordered new rocker panels...

Consider the Kumho Road Venture AT KL78

They are out there. Rebuilt calipers are not that expensive and will save a lot of time if you don't already own the tools to properly rebuild a caliper.

Tap Gently. Hammering breaks stuff. Alternatively, replace the bleeder screws with speed bleeders and/or use a pressure bleeder. Motive products makes a very nice one that had adapters for many different cars. I've used on for years. It makes a frustrating job routine, and a lot less messy. Even so, you may need to run the bleed procedure a couple times to get any air trapped in the ABS actuator, and get it to collect in the calipers/wheel cylinders to get it out easily. Good luck.

Somewhat unrelated, but here's a good DIY product. I'm not sure how much hassle this is for you Canadians to obtain north of the border, but its an option. http://www.kellsportproducts.com/fluidfilmkits.html

I'd say a hi-lift jack, a receiver shackle, and a hi-lift recovery kit would make a pretty good gift, and should total all under $200.

sounds like bolts on the front subframe near the lower control arm mounting point are loosening up. Common issue. Get a torque wrench and tighten them. I want to say the spec is 140ft-lbs, but I'd doublecheck the service manuals(they are stickyed somewhere on the forums here). I'd hate for you to break one by overtightening.

sounds like a couple oil changes are in your very near future

What's the motivation for a 6 speed anyway? Do you get a better crawl ratio or a steeper overdrive? The 5 speed is pretty well matched for the power/torque of a VG engine as is.

Alkorahil should be able to help you out. He's a great supporter of NPORA.

Its time to call up SteveO and put that H233B SAS kit in

15W40 is too thick to run in your engine. It would work if there is no other alternative available, but it will pump too slowly to avoid excessive startup wear. Your engine was designed to use 5w30, so stick with that.

Don't reuse old lifters unless they are going to be reinstalled in the same head on the same lobe of the same camshaft they came from. Lifters are designed to burnish to the camshaft lobe they are installed on. Mixing used components renews the break-in process, but without the benefit of the break-in coating new lifters come with. Severe to catastrophic wear often occurs. Use new lifters, even with used cams. I'd stick with the Nissan ones. Liberally apply camshaft break-in lube (not grease, it will clog the lifters) to all the moving parts as you assemble the valve-train. Use conventional oil with ZDDP additive during the breakin, and change the oil and filter after the initial 20 minute break-in period. Use conventional oil with ZDDP, a good filter and change the oil again after 500 miles, keeping the rpms down during that period. After that, you can switch to a synthetic oil if desired.