RJSquirrel

Slackers! Get back to work! Inspiration Here (PG-rated for Language) Inspiration #2, (R-rated for Language) Now, you should be ready to resume

Buy a rod of UHMW polyethlyene or MD-fortified nylon rod a couple inches in diameter, and then use a miter saw and a drill press to cut the rod the length you need, drill 'em out for new bolts, and get to the hardware store for some nice 10.9 din rated hardware to put it all together. Its cool stuff. Self-lubricating, and tough. Nice thing about it is that it works with common woodworking tools. Total cost is about $35 for the rod, plus whatever the fasteners cost. You can make the lift any height you want, though I'd keep to less than 3", otherwise you can hose your frame. http://www.interstateplastics.com/Gray-Md-Nylon-Cast-Rod-NYLMCM.php?vid=201007022159-5p&sku=NYLMCM&qty=1&diameter=2.250&dim2=1

Thanks for all the knowledge, everyone. Thanks to Mr. Jim for starting this board, and to 88 for keeping it online. Albert, my pathfinder, would likely have been scrapped without what I've learned here. We both thank you.

clamp the lights onto the bars. If you put them on a swivel, you can use them as side lights, too. You can also remove them easily, so thieves or cops will have one less reason to hassle you. Nice find, BTW. I think you need an NPORA sticker up there on the deflector

They are electrical. The signal comes from the distributor. Its about an even split between the wiring and the actual tachometer. I've read a couple threads about a "tachometer resistor" available from the dealer. There is also a voltage regulator on the back of the gauge cluster that goes bad. Some people have fixed the tachometer problems by carefully tightening the connections. My tachometer has never given me any trouble, so I'm sorry I can't be much help. My transmission power light has never blinked. Sounds like a transmission trouble code. Hopefully others here can help.

2x what Tungsten said. Also, have the installer design the system so the section that crosses under your transmission can be easily removed to simplify servicing the transmission.

The second one would suck your eardrums right out. All your bass is ours.

As many of you all likely know, 5x7 is the size of the door(94+) and the rear roof bar. On the roof bar, you may need to trim the sheet metal for the speaker hole so speakers fit properly. To get to the speaker, you just need to gently pry off the cover over the speaker on the ceiling with a panel tool. The depth is the real issue to make sure you have space so the stock cover fits over it. I know everyone is hunting for bass in these trucks, but I'd go with a sub you(or someone else!) can easily remove when you need cargo space or to sell the truck. Hacking up your interior to put 6x9s in these trucks won't yield the result you desire, and will affect your resale, unless you do a really clean install. Remove the speaker and measure the depth to figure out what will fit with just minor trimming. Crutchfield has the top-mount depth for most speakers, and you can find what fits, regardless of what their recommendations are. Although I have sony xplod's in my rig currently, I have put Polk Db series in my truck, and I'd put them in my pathy if I had to do it over again. You need to measure because I don't remember the depth. The Polk's are even marine rated, so if you decide to go for the hose-cleanable interior, you are set there.

In Illinois, Its title classification is "Carryall", which is effectively treated as a car here.

You need to work out the test station issue, but regardless of that: At high RPMs, your engine is leaning out. This points to dirty MAF sensor (clean it, CAREFULLY), clogged fuel filter or seriously carboned-up engine from running super-rich with bad O2 sensor. Your timing may also be advanced too far, but if its all carboned up, I'd verify the EGR is really working as its supposed to (I know your mech said EGR passed). In order of expense, I'd do the following: 1) Verify correct ignition timing (free, if you have a timing light) 2) Clean MAF sensor (~free if you are careful, $$$ if you are not and damage the sensor) 3) Clean EGR valve making sure it operates properly(~free) 4) Techron Fuel injector cleaner (~$8) 5) Replace fuel filter (~$20) 6) Sea-foam engine & Change oil/filter ( < $50 ) 7) New plugs/rotor/cap/wires ( < $100 ) Beyond this, you'll want to look at the cooling system, Idle air control valve(stuck open?), Replacement of EGR valve and all vacuum hoses, new catalytic converter, or intake manifold vacuum leaks. Good luck.

The Vg33 has a different crankshaft than the VG30. Internally, they are the same, but for the oil pump drive and harmonic balancer, they are different sizes. The pumps will bolt to the different blocks fine, but it the vg30 crank won't engage the vg33 pump properly.

HF sells vacuum pumps and a r134 gauge set. See if you can find a local shop that specialized in A/C. Everyone is on a tight budget these days (I sure am), but going to a professional might not cost as much as you think. They will know how to purge the old system and convert it to R134a properly. R12 is still available, its just very expensive. R12 is still made in mexico, and is super easy to find there. Alternatively, get in touch with Alkorahil, so you can at least show up to the AC shop with all new parts giving you the best shot at getting the system up and running. I'm glad my AC still works. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Check your ignition timing. You probably need to give the engine a tuneup: new plugs/cap/rotor/wires/timing. Sea-foam your engine to clean out the carbon. High NOX is usually caused by high combustion temperatures. You might also have a vaccuum leak, a clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel injectors, dying fuel pump. The engine might be overheating. Bad water pump/Thermostat/low coolant? Anything that causes the engine to run too lean/ too hot will have an adverse effect on NOX. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.

Guns Repulse Ignorant Nissan Defilers / Gay Ranchers Incite Naked Dancing / Golf Ruined; Impressive Nightly Downpour DINGO

I especially like that the forklift is a Nissan also.

2x to what B said. Major Bummer. Hopefully nothing was permanently damaged. I know you're really upset, and these kinds of things really affect your trust in your fellow human; I know, I'm speaking from personal experience. Remember, its just stuff. If I were you, I wouldn't replace the stolen gear. Whoever knew you were there will likely be nosing around again in a few weeks to give you time to rebuild, so you can be hit again.

Is there some sort of idle compensation sensor that detects when the power steering system is under load? If it wasn't responding, the idle would move around.

There is a voltage regulator on the back of instrument panel that goes bad that can cause the gauge problems. Its still available from Nissan. There are a couple threads floating around that discuss this. Intermittent electrical problems are also related to flaky/dirty connections. I'm lucky that I've never had issues with my gauges on my pathfinder, but on other cars, poor solder joints can cause issues also. You want nice smooth solder joints. Anything that is globby looking should be reflowed with a soldering iron, and use some flux to help the solder flow. Good luck.

The torque effect is affected by the design of the header, and size of the crossover pipe and catalytic converter. By the time the exhaust pulses get to the muffler, all you are really looking for is to not restrict flow. I used to be a flowmaster/glasspack fan, but as I've gotten older, I want something I can drive into the campground at 2am without waking anyone up, and it makes cross-country trips way more pleasant, but without sacrificing power. I highly recommend reading Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems by Smith and Morrison, 3rd ed.You don't have to do the math unless you want to, but even just reading it will definitely help you understand what a custom exhaust should be doing for you.

Do a tuneup. New air-filter/fuel-filter/plugs/cap/rotor/wires/ignition timing will do wonders. Run a couple bottles of Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner through the system. Techron will also clean your exhaust valves off. Its the only fuel additive I've ever used that actually worked. It's not cheap, but you're not wasting your money. Change your oil and filter. Change the transmission and rear differential lubricants. Lubricate your driveshaft U-joints, or consider replacing them with new ones that have a grease fitting. By now, they are most likely worn out unless your truck has super low mileage. Insure your tires are properly inflated. All the above optimizes efficiency and power and reduces friction. After you have the basics covered, make sure your catalytic converter isn't clogged, and based on your post, that seems possible. 2.25" for a stock engine is more than adequate. Get the rust hole that commonly forms in the floor pan above the stock catalytic converter repaired. That occurs even on pathfinders not in the rust belt, thought it is less common. That lets in an enormous amount of road and engine noise. Make sure all your door weatherstripping is in good shape to seal out road noise. If you want something quiet on the highway, don't waste your money on cone style filters. They only make power when you are running wide open, and 99% of the time you're not, but the filters are still noisy. Get a couple cans of undercoating and spray the front and rear wheel wells. Take car of any rust and make sure its dry so you don't trap water and cause rust. Install some dynamat on the doors, then on the firewall and then on the floor pan. Do the work in stages until you are happy with the sound level. Thorley headers cost more, but are easier to install, and are much better built. I've run pacesetters and thorleys. For max power, but minimal highway noise, talk to your exhaust installer about installing a 2.5" cat and then the stock muffler from a suburban or a tahoe. Those units are designed to make good power with an engine twice the size of the vg30e, and without a lot of noise. A stock replacement muffler for a 2004 suburban is $35, and can flow enough to support 295hp, about 2x what a stock vg30 can make. You'll maximize what your truck can do without attracting thieves or the cops. As far as appearance goes its a matter of personal taste, but stock alloys from a supercharged xterra look nice, will bolt right up, and not cost a million bucks. Some people like Infinti QX4 rims also. I'm not into bling, and there's really not much in the way of body kits and such, but keeping it clean and waxed, and making sure everything is repaired and kept in order makes much more of a difference than wacky paint jobs, and modifications you'll soon regret dumping loads of money into, that can make your truck worth a lot less when its time to sell. My $0.02. Good luck.

Get an external cooler ASAP. If your cooler is clogged, odds are good your trans filter isn't far behind. Seriously consider an external filter as well. Nothing less than 18000 GVWR, and bigger still(2x) if you do any long climbs, especially at altitude(Colorado). Get a temp gauge. Your tranny temp should really not exceed 180F for longest life for the transmission. If you're planning on using this rig in the winter, seriously consider a fluid thermostat also. All this gets into maybe $200 once your all done, but its way cheaper, and way less hassle than dealing with a transmission swap. There are tons of threads dealing with this, so there's quite a bit of guidance out there.

OSR: I'd love to attend, but this year its just not gonna happen. The budget is tighter than a buckskin girdle after a hard rain. Count me in for next year to do it up right.

And what exactly is this supposed to do?? I always thought it was there to reduce the sound of the air flowing thru the filter but when I flipped this part over and saw the way it is made and the fact that it doesn't even flow from one end to the other ( I ran water thru it to check), I was like WTF?? It *is* designed to reduce intake noise. Its likely intended to smooth out an intake resonance. Because the pathfinder's intake is relatively short, its there to reduce noise, or increase power or both.

Rustfree Engineless Pathfinders Litter Yakima TRAIL

Factory Manuals are available here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=26616 You need a decent pair of snap ring pliers, a torque wrench, some hex key sockets, and a lockring socket to set the bearing preload properly. Google for OTC7698 to find what you need. Your local auto parts store may have one to loan out. Nissan sells them too. Supposedly the tool for a Dana 60 works also, but I don'tk know if that's true or not. Don't forget to use lock-tite on the locking hub bolts as you put it together. Check your CV boots on the front halfshafts while you have the hub out of the way and you can see everything. The biggest mistake people make is reassembling the hub incorrectly. Make sure all the parts are installed in the correct order, and you'll be golden. Make sure you break the rotor bolts free before you remove the hub. Its a royal PITA to do it afterward unless you have a vise and aren't concerned about damaging the old rotor. The brake disc bolts onto the back of the hub, so you need to remove it all to get the rotor off. Initially, I cursed Nissan for designing it this way, but I realized the design mazimizes wheel bearing life by reducing wheel offset and maximizes brake cooling. Your first side will take a few hours to master all the details. The second side should take about an hour or so. I've done this a few times now and can swap both front rotors out in about 1.5 hours working at a nice pace.