RJSquirrel

Bad rear transmission mount? Bad Engine mount? Flush your transmission and replace the pan filter. Install an inline filter. There really isn't any such thing as "too clean" when it comes to ATF. Replaceable units from Magnefine can be spliced into the cooler lines and are good for up to 30k miles. Better units from Racor are available but are spendy and require more elaborate installations for the spin-on filters.

Try 0w30. It will flow faster than 10w or 5w, and will help get oil up to the lifters sooner, especially in the winter. I run 0w30 year-round. Mobil-1 is available from Walmart. Alternatively, try some high detergent Rotella Diesel Engine Oil to dissolve sludge deposits that may be clogging your oil galleries. Its available in 10w30 and 5w40. Mix both 1:1 or so to get to about 5w30. Rotella is also readily available at Walmart. Make sure you have a good filter with a functioning anti-drainback valve. I've purchased quality filters that had defective anti-drain valves that cause the startup tick, since the oil pump needs to refill the filter before it can pressurize anything else. I only use Wix/Napa Gold/Purolator PureOne filters as they have silicone anti-drain valves, and good filtration properties. Everything else seems to have such spotty quality I just don't bother anymore. As an aside, I had a dodge with a 4.7l v8 that had what was commonly referred to as "lifter tick" at startup. I put a bottle of Lucas fuel system cleaner (not a typo) in the gas, and the startup tick disappeared. Noisy injectors ended up being the issue, and might be worth a try as well.

With a grey interior, green or tan won't really match, IMHO. How about something like this, especially with the boxy lines of the WD21:

Sealed Power makes 0.5mm over (.020) for the VG33, so I would expect they probably would make 1.0s and 1.5s, but that is pure conjecture

They will load up with mud if the soil is mostly clay, but otherwise they work very well. If the mud is more sand or loam they clear pretty well. Good performance in rain, and pretty much unstoppable in sand and snow. Aired down, they crawl pretty well too. Smooth and quiet on the highway. For weekend warrior rigs, they are one of my favorite tires.

Kudos to you. Everyone is busy chopping theirs up. Its nice to hear someone wants to keep one original for a change.

Infiniti Q45 (VH45DE) will bolt up to the pathfinder transmission, though on a manual, you'll need to obtain a 300zx bellhousing to make it work. Wiring will prove somewhat challenging, but it has been done a few times. There are a few build threads for VH45 swaps on the forum. The H233B rear axle isn't quite a 14 bolt, but its stronger than a dana 44 or a ford 9 inch. It can handle 35s no problem. SAS'ing the front will unlock most of the hidden capabilities of the pathfinder. If you're looking to build a bogger rig, you're looking to pretty much build a complete truck. Perhaps sell the intact pathfinder and find a junkyard chassis to start from? If you have enough time/money/access to fab equipment, you can do anything. Good luck. Keep us posted on your project.

Without a lift, 32x11.5x15s will rub. Its not the height thats the issue so much as the extra width. They won't always tuck into the back fenders when flexing, even with a lift. They rub on the rear fender lips if you turn fast or have much of a load at stock height. In the front they will hit the backs of the fender flares. At least they do mounted on Legos. With a 3" lift, The fronts rub occasionally when flexing. I have BFG AT KOs, BTW.

The procedure you are referring to is the generally accepted way to properly break in the valve train on flat tappet engines. The mention of ZDDP enriched oils are to provide a means to provide proper breakin lubrication. Modern roller-tappet engines do not require oils with as much ZDDP, so modern formulations don't include much. ZDDP has adverse effects on catalytic converters, so it use is being scaled back. There are special breakin oils available(Redline/Joe Gibbs Racing/GM EOS/etc), but Rotella or Delvac (both formulated for diesel engines) motor oils are readily available and much less expensive, and have high ZDDP content. Don't skimp on the valvetrain assembly lube, it's what protects everything in those first crucial seconds before the oil reaches the valvetrain from the oil pan. You want cylinder 1 and 4 at TDC to minimize the amount of spring pressure on the cam and followers during assembly to minimize the chance of galling the cam during assembly.

Hesistation is probably not the tranny. It will shift slow, then funny, and then reverse will go out. I'd check for water in fuel or bad/loose ignition wires? Are the plugs properly gapped? Distributor Cap/Rotor?( I know you said you did complete tuneup) Is ignition timing properly set?(Too much advance or faulty knock sensor) Worn bushing in Distributor can cause issues also, but doesn't sound like your issue(check last) Coolant in oil?(head gasket?) Any codes from ECM? Carbon in the intake? (Seafoam or Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner) Loose/Dirty battery contacts? There is an issue with faulty grounding on the MAF sensor that can cause misfire issues. There are some threads detailing the correct fix. I believe there is even a factory part that addresses the TSB on this... BTW Erratic tach is a grounding problem or bad solder joints in gauge cluster...

I've always had good results with Gates.

17V will boil your battery out in short order. As for the lights, missing ground wire somewhere?

Go with a 3/8" for the crows foot. its just awkward and really tight access. No attitude adjustment possible, unfortunately.

Left side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7500 Right side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7501 The stickers on them show they were made in canada. For you canadians, they are on this page too: http://ecat.crosscanadaparts.com/base/welcome.php?year=1995&make=NISSAN&model=PATHFINDER

Opened a box containing a pair of new rocker panels. Yay! Left side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7500 Right side: http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7501 The stickers on them show they were made in canada. For you canadians, they are on this page too: http://ecat.crosscanadaparts.com/base/welcome.php?year=1995&make=NISSAN&model=PATHFINDER

Inspect your torsion bar boots. Make sure you have replacements. All mine were cracked when I did my front end. The boot for the drivers rear is a different part number (silicone for exhaust heat) Dealer part only. Front wheel bearing locknut tool http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm You'll need a 19mm crowsfoot wrench to get the lower control arm off. Its a serious PITA. I'd add a new idler arm, and calmini idler arm support bracket. HooHaa centerlink from grassroots4x4.com. The stock ones don't last very long if you wheel at all. After a 1 week off-road trip, I needed a new one. It was scary loose on the drive home. It was brand new before I left. Tension rods are commonly rusted dangerously thin where they go through the frame. You're in Cali where rust is less frequent. Other common problem is socket in the frame where the tension rod locates may need to be repaired. Welding is required if the holes are enlarged. There are several threads on how to perform repairs. Replacement parts can be purchased for the frame. Consult member "Alkorahil" for the appropriate part #s.

The semi auto is definitely nifty technology. In practice, though, a normal automatic works fine 99% of the time, even for people who wheel regularly. The only time manual intervention with the torque converter would be needed is where extra engine braking or hill-climbing torque limiting is desired. Rev matching and the ability to shift is a definite convenience with a full-blown semiauto, but in practice, manual override would be used very rarely. Think of using the lockup switch as you would the clutch pedal, but the beauty is you'd only need to engage it when you want.

Full manual control over torque converter lockup is very nearly the same thing. There is a thread around here on how to perform the mod.

Definitely drive with OD off if you are towing, or are heavily loaded and climbing hills and the truck is unable to keep the torque converter in OD. Disabling OD will allow the transmission to lock the torque converter, eliminating much of the heat that would get dumped into the transmission. For wheeling, select the lowest gear necessary. Generally for climbs, the transmission will choose what it needs, but for descents, lower gears provide the best possible engine braking. Loose terrain may dictate forcing the transmission into a given gear. TownCivilian's recommendation on parking is definitely the way to do it, especially if the ground is sloped. If the ground is more or less level, I don't generally use the parking brake(freezing up in winter), but parking using TCs method will be the easiest on the gearbox.

White wagon wheels show rust very quickly, which is why they are rarely seen in the east It stains the paint even before it chips off. The white wagon wheels are more popular out west where rust is a much slower process.

I like #4. I think it would look good with your darker colored rig.

What I meant by "Tap Gently" is to actually tap repeatedly on each caliper with an actual hammer to help shake loose any bubbles stuck to the inside of the caliper fluid chamber, so the fluid passing through it can carry them out of the system. Stomping("Hammering") on the brake pedal can move enough fluid to break residual bubbles loose, but since I rarely have a helper with brake bleeding, I use a pressure bleeder with clear vinyl tubing attached to the bleeder valve so I can see the fluid condition and watch the bubbles coming out. Be sure to run the tubing up from the bleeder valve before curving it down into the collection container to create a trap so the air bubbles don't work back up the tubing into the caliper while you are trying to close the valve.

I'll let you all know if this place actually delivers... I'd hate to get everyone all lathered up for nothing...

Ordered new rocker panels...