RJSquirrel

X2

Thermal bypass valve Usage Instructions(pdf)

No. Troubleshoot it and repair it properly. There are links to factory service manuals bookmarked on the forum and quite a few folks who have actual experience doing AC work on vehicles. We are happy to help you out. First off: Have you checked to see if you are actually getting 12V to the switch, and then 12V to the compressor clutch when its switched on? You are aware that the fan blower cannot be turned off for the AC clutch to engage? The fact that the light in the switch doesnt illuminate when its pushed is clue. The backlighting in the center console has nothing to do with the AC switch light. Also, there's a temperature sensor on many A/C compressors designed to protect the compressor if the system is under or overcharged that may not be allowing the clutch to engage. Just bypassing the safety could damage your compressor, and adding R134 to the system without pressure gauges (not clear from your first post if you did that or not) can cause more harm than good.

Raybestos Pros have never given me any trouble and last a long time, even with use/abuse. I put them in all my cars/trucks.

There are two Phillips screws pointing up that are below the row of buttons. Unscrew them. Remove the ashtray and if you have an aftermarket stereo, get the faceplate for it out of the way. After that, tilt the panel toward you by pulling the top of the panel toward you, and then lift the whole thing up. The wires that attach to the buttons have clips on the back and remove easily. Good luck.

Are you sure it isn't the torque converter unlocking and the locking up again once you resume throttle?

I'd recommend 33x10.5LT15s on 15x7s. It minimizes rubbing, and will keep your IFS in more-or-less one piece, and keeps the track narrow so you don't have side-to-side clearance issues.

Legos are my favorites, but if the usage is more street biased, wd22 xterra SC rims look pretty sharp too.

x2 to what B said, and keep the Pathfinder. Since you are out in Cali where the rust monster doesn't seem to visit, you'll still have a solid vehicle if you need to unload the G35 for some reason.

US Cargo Control Its a good place to get binders, hooks, chains, and shackles without the Winch company brand name markup.

Are the Hellas all they are cracked up to be? My stock horns are sounding especially effeminate in the cold these days. Any chance you could make a recording of them and post it?

Details on the Heavy Duty Transmission: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25568 Enjoy! It's much more than just a shift kit.

You've got the right tires for coping with snow, however, it sounds like your rear LSD may be worn out or at the last fluid change, LSD friction modifer wasn't added. With mine, I get some wheel spin, but nothing like what you describe. A lot of LSDs get smoked because of the donut spare tires. Mismatched sizing of tires can completely wear out a LSD out in less than 20 miles of driving. A lot of people don't know that if they get a flat on the rear axle, to swap a front tire to the rear, and run the donut spare on the front. Thankfully, Nissan uses a clutch-style LSD which can be rebuilt. You might consider checking that out first before you go through the expense and hassle of installing a locker up front. Good luck and keep us updated as to what you do and how it works.

A welded diff on the front will make the truck nearly impossible to steer (snow or tarmac) and you'll regularly break axles or the diff. Start by getting good tires well suited for snow(IMHO BFG AT KO's rock in snow) and then get a rear LSD or selectable locker first. After that, a front LSD or selectable locker for the front. For moderate speed snow use, I prefer LSDs front and rear best as they interfere with handling the least. In deep snow, you're likely not going so fast, so the handling issues with lockers are not so pronounced. so X4 on the front LSD or front selectable locker.

Thanks for the tip. I'll have to add a couple of those to my trail kit.

It could have been me or maybe my alignment tech. I do own a calibrated torque wrench, and I'm fairly sure I know how to use it properly. That being said, I'm perfectly willing to shoulder the blame on that one. Either way, I heard a clunking noise I couldn't explain that occurred under the exact scenarios being described. I knew something was wrong, but didn't find the source. I did figure out what the problem was, however, when I sheared off the upper control arm's rearward pivot rod mounting bolt. It was only 8 miles to where a flatbed could tow me out. That was a fun day, for sure. The owner of the shop in Gunnison that rebuilt my front suspension after that adventure said he used to buy the UCA pivot bolts by the box as this type of failure occurred so often, esp. with lifted rigs, back in the day when these trucks were new.

The most cost-effective change for increasing flex is to disconnect the sway bars, especially the rear one. Disconnecting the front helps, but not as much as for the rear. Stick with 10.5" wide tires so they tuck properly. Any wider and the tires will rub without major body mods. Use the stock front torsion bars since they are lower rate and will be more amenable to flexing, unless you are planning on installing a winch. Then you will need the stiffer torsion bars. 33s work fine with a 3" suspension lift, but any bigger than that and you'll need some sort of body lift which generally will cause more hassles than it fixes, IMHO.

check your upper control arm mounts and make sure all your alignment shims are still there. They(the shims) have a bad habit of shaking out, and you can break off your upper control arm mounting bolts with the shock loads that occur because the upper control arm is slamming around.

Hey all you machinist-types out there: Anybody have any experience with this thing? Would this be a good addition to the toolkit? Is there a better way to do this? http://www.brokenbolt.com/blog/tag/broken-bolt-extraction/ Thanks RJ

It has been my experience that when a fastener is missing/broken on some rotating assembly, the others will not stay tight for very long. It must be a uneven clamping load or balance issue that causes this. That fastener wouldn't be there if the engineers didn't think it was needed. Until you can get the broken bolt out, I'd make it a pretty regular job to make sure the rest of the bolts are torqued down properly. If it broke off down inside the hole, left-handed drill bits and/or easy-outs are probably the easiest way to remove them. Application of penetrating oil (PB-blaster and Kroil work wonderfully) and then heat cycling the part with a torch to help break up the rust. Be very careful when drilling out the bolt to minimize thread damage. When you are done, chase the threads with a tap. Good luck!

If the emulsified oil is just in the oil filler and cap, its probably just too many short trips. Check your antifreeze level, and look at it to see if you have oil in it. Also, look at the dipstick, to see if you have any emulsified oil there. The two latter cases would indicate a likely head gasket issue.

I'd say replace the timing belt. Granted a 95 has the 100k belt, but it will never be easier to replace once its out...

Assuming you have enough coolant in the system(purged of air with the bleeder screw) your heater core may just be clogged. Disconnect the heater core at the firewall, and use a garden hose to flush out the heater core. I got a sizeable amount of casting sand out. My heater worked quite a bit better afterwards. Also, look here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28607

Did my application for membership get lost? I applied back in April or May '10. I think I qualify... I submitted photos and everything...

Attention all you rust-belt dwellers! I just located a vendor that makes pre-formed frame repair kits for the dreaded frame rust problems our Pathfinders suffer from. No more improvised, hacked-up frame welding jobs. Save your self the fabrication hassles if your going to do it yourself, or save money on labor at the auto body shop since it is a pre-formed piece that goes from the rear bumper mount all the way to in front of the trailing arm mount. The company is called : http://www.autorust.com OR http://www.safetcap.com http://www.autorust.com/store/ They do have an online store but it currently does not have the pathfinder parts listed online. There is a downloadable PDF catalog that does show photos of the parts in question. I called the supplier to verify that these are still being produced and they are. Yay! The part #s are as follows: Prices are as of December 2010 ART-044L (Left side repair kit) ($160 USD) ART-044R (Right side repair kit) ($160 USD) ART-044S (Set of both sides) ($310 USD) Contact them at: Auto Rust Technicians Safe-T-Cap Frame Repair 275 Niantic Ave. Cranston, RI 02907 USA Contact 401.944.4444 tel. 401.944.4203 fax 800.407.7024 toll-free sales@autorust.com www.safetcap.com