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Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST


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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Hardbody XE V6 4x4
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ft. Rucker
  • Country
    United States

trexterra's Achievements

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  1. Tried to search but haven't seen anybody attempt to move the speaker mount over to an older 2 door. I figure for $40 from the junk yard I'll try it.
  2. Tried to search but haven't seen anybody attempt to move the speaker mount over to an older 2 door. I figure for $40 from the junk yard I'll try it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
  3. Did you pull the axles out of the diff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. You were right, still don't get how timing was showing right though. I confirmed #1 cyl was at top of compression stroke as harmonic balancer was showing me 30 BTDC lined up on the arrow when I dropped the distributor in to line the rotor up with #1. It was most definitely 180 out tonight when i took the cap off. I followed the same procedures as stated above that I got from the fsm and for whatever reason it worked tonight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Did just that and went back to basics. Got it started tonight, went to install new cap and rotor and it was somehow 180 off from where I dropped it in. Not sure how timing was showing right, anyone know if #1 fires twice per crank rotation? Either way I'll put the timing light on it again tomorrow when I can get some help because she's running but only if I keep feathering the throttle. Going to re adjust timing and go from there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. It's an impudence timing light so it only flashes light when the #1 wire gets spark. So even if the engine is just cranking and turning slowly than it will always flash TDC. Shouldn't matter how fast it's spinning as long as it tells me #1 is firing when it should. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. You'd be better off with a SAS than sticking with IFS if you want that much lift. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Yeah I double checked by putting a dowel in to the #1 spark plug hole to make sure it was at TDC (compression stroke) while the harmonic balancer was showing TDC Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. To spell out the details, put in a vg30e to replace the blown vg30i. I reused the intake from the i since I do not have the ECU or harness for the e. I'm getting fuel, when I let off the key you can sometimes see a pressurized mist come back out the throttle body, and it won't run off starter fluid. I've checked the timing and it's set 15* BTDC. When I check the plugs for spark I get a good clean looking normal spark, only issue is that it is arcing. It arced to the air box once and I thought it was a fluke. When holding the distributor to rotate timing as my buddy cranked it, it arced through my body giving me a good little ride! I ordered a new rotor/cap/wire set because those are clearly faulty. It was the set that was running however before the motor blew a rod out the oil pan so I feel like it should be able to start this motor. Any other ideas to try while I wait for parts?
  10. 3.7 with the filter change per fsm. 😁 I left it in so I can try and get it running before I take off. That's another issue entirely tough.
  11. Not what I wanted to hear but thanks for the quick reply. I'm on a short time frame before I deploy and debating risk reward of getting it running so I can drive it up to a buddies house while I'm gone. Would it be safe to run theoretically?
  12. So I pulled the oil pan while it was on an engine stand and did rear and front mains, oil pan seal, etc... What I didn't know I should do was pull the dipstick before reinstalling the oil pan. Now the engine is full reassembled and in the truck waiting for me to pour oil in it and crank it and the dipstick won't come out. Any ideas?
  13. Wish I had some sunshine to finish my swap! Keeps snowing on me!
  14. it's already got a linked rear end on coils. Don't know why you would want to go to leafs or bother swapping to a jeep axle. The H233B is a great rear end to work with.
  15. ok i'll be attempting try #3 tomorrow to get the engine out. I'll look for this.

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