shasdakota

ok, so i would like to piece together some stainless brake lines. i know i can order a kit from AC, but i thought it should be cheaper to put my own together. (especially because UPS will charge me 50% in brokerage fee's and AC wont ship to me with USPS). i've been trying to find out exactly what hardware i will need, but i'm having some difficulty. i have a pic from the AC site of what their stainless brake lines look like: what is the circular hardware used on the ends of the lines? can i re-use this part? i have a link to a website here that specializes in parts for stainless lines (among other things): http://www.anfittingsdirect.com/index.php?osCsid=655fe1513c9512221719327ac8da9a52 it seems like they have everything to make stainless lines, but i dont see the circular looking hardware that i see on the AC lines. maybe i can order those parts from Nissan or re-use my old parts? i'm just wondering if anyone has made their own stainless brake lines before? and if so, where did you purchase the parts? appreciate the input...

thats some rust jwmyers23, good work... i put on new bump stops. i had to slightly modify my bump stock brackets to accept these universal poly bump stops from energy suspensions...

here's a whole thread on the dual steering box/idler arm delete: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23222

ok. thanks guys. seem to have confirmed what i thought. the other reason i was interested in this filter was because it would fit in-line with my snorkel better than my stock air box, which i thought might increase air flow, and i also thought the shape of this K&N filter box was more aerodynamic looking, i thought it may also bring in more air than my stock air box even if my stock air box was rotated to line up with my snorkel better. about the filter sock, i wasnt planning to always use it, but only put it on if i was driving through heavy rain or really dusty stuff. 1994SEV6- your comments dont make any sense to me... i think you need to do some more research. a turbo definently heats the air. the air leaves the turbo at approx 350*F. and it enters at outside air temp from my snorkel. lots of vehicles use a turbo and snorkel. i guess i dont know what your trying to say... the intercooler cools air, not the turbo. and your right, i am absolutely in love with teh k&N website. i want to make love to the k&N site... am i supposed to feel self-consious about linking to K&N??? MY1 Path- i know the exhaust gas is gonna be around 700*F, but from what i read the air leaving the turbo is going to be around 350*F. am i wrong? Precise 1- i saw the warning. its ok. i have other mods that arent exactly street legal either... I also heard that these Apollo air filter boxes arent very water resistant...

so, i'm wondering if this even makes sense? would a cold air intake cool the air anymore than my snorkel already does? would the shape of this cold air intake increase air flow? with a cold air intake, would my turbo heat the air less, and therefore reduce the amount of work my intercooler has to do to get the air temp back down? i'm thinking about adding one of these: http://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm as it is, i have a semi "S" shaped bend in the hose that connects my snorkel to my stock air box. i was going to eventually just rotate my stock air box until it lines up with my snorkel better, but then i came across these universal cold air intakes with enclosed air box. i know it wouldnt hurt, but i'd rather not waste $$. does anyone think these K&N cold air intakes will help cool my air or increase air flow anymore than the snorkel already does? they run about $90. i also like the sounds of these things: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RC-5052DK&cst=81515.1.000 silicone treated to reduce moisture, and it also protects your filter from dust. i'm going to try one. i just have to decide if i'm gonna get one to fit my current K&N air filter, or if i will need one to fit this K&N cold air intake. they come in all sizes: http://www.knfilters.com/search/wrap.aspx

the energy suspensions tension rod kit also come with sleeves. but no washers. and yes, my old sleeves were totally rusted/corroded...

welcome man, thanks for the coil measurements...

yes, i can also recomend energy suspensions. i have their tension rod and front sway bar bushings. real nice stuff, i recomend you get some of their grease also. poly bushings tend to squeek i guess, and the grease they have is really good. no squeeking yet from mine anyways... and they seem like really great people, they really try and make sure your happy, and will give you any info you need. which is nice, because some companies dont seem to give a sh** at all. i wonder if some companies even care to sell anything...

hey heloflyboy, yeah, i'm positive i have lower and upper isolators. my lowers are trashed. thanks for the measurements, i dont know how i got 4.25" ID and you got 3" ID. i could be remembering wrong, but either way i'm off. i think i need some calipers. its hard using a tape measure in hard to reach places... but your right, it still doesnt look like they have anything for me. and i'm positive i've heard of people using these... yes, the dealer is pricey, it will cost $120+sh for all 4 isolators from them. EDIT- ok, so long as your measurments are correct, it looks like Style "D" (#156103) will work. its specs are: A- 3" B- 3 7/16" C- 4 15/16" D- 3/16" For some reason i was told i wanted Style "A" for the uppers though? not sure why. but it doesnt look like any Style "A" will fit... maybe i could use Style "A" (#96104). its specs are: A- 2 3/4" B- 3 1/16" C- 4 9/16" D- 7/16" a so its a little smaller than the coil measurements, but i think it might still fit. i may have to order both and keep whichever fits best... I wonder if JGC coil isolators would be compatable? i know we can use their coils. it might be easier to find something for them... i found some energy suspensions coil spring isloators for the '93 JGC, i wonder if those will work? 4 for $32.50...

thats funny, i was wondering the same thing. didnt know what that little hole was for... it will get flipped... yeah, i'm trying to figure out what i want to do with my other breathers. they are all in the engine bay though, only the rear diff was really low, not sure if the Pathy's are the same. i got some "waterproof" breathers like this: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/PSC-Vent-Bellow-p-17158.html but i tried one on my tranny/t-case breather and it created pressure and pushed the fluid out of my dipstick. i wasnt impressed. i'm just glad it didnt get pushed out of a seal, but thats why i tried the tranny first, because of the dip stick. as soon as i got the things in the mail, i didnt understand how they were supposed to work, as they are completely sealed. i didnt understand how they would "breathe". i called the company, and they confirmed that they will somehow breathe even though they are sealed. something about the heat making the waterproof breathers expand. anyways, they obviously do not work (for me at least). i still havent called back to ask whats up... then i thought about routing the breathers in my engine bay into my air box/snorkel, but i didnt want my truck taking air from the same place the breathers were venting. plus i want to draw air for my air compressor from my air box, and i dont want it taking air from my breathers either. so now i'm thinkin i may do something similar to what i did for the rear diff breather...

yes, i read through the thread now, i know what your talking about... no, i probably wouldnt want to pay for shipping, those things are probably a little heavy. i would wait till i found one @ the scrapyard...

yesterday i mounted my new stainless steel tail pipe. just a little thing, but i thought it really makes the truck look good: this is what was on there before: i also routed my rear diff breather up into the cab (between the body panels), and i put a fuel filter on the end of it to keep out dust and debri. as it was, the breather was just stuffed inside a pipe at about the same level as the bottom of the fuel tank. i thought it would be really easy to get water inside in its stock location: i also added a small secondary in-line fuel filter before my fuel injection pump because i was missing the small gauze filter that was supposed to be inside. the filter is easier to replace now in this location:

hey guys, i'm in need of some new coil spring isolators. i was hoping to get these kind from energy suspensions: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Energy-Suspension-Coil-Spring-Isolators.asp i've heard of people using these on their WD21 before. my problem is i took measurements of my coil springs awhile back, and i came up with a ID of 4.25". which is larger than anything energy suspensions has. i know i measured more than once. it doesnt seem like they have anything that will fit for me. what up with this? does anyone know which coil spring isolators i need for the WD21? i need bottom isolators for sure, maybe top isolators also. if energy doesnt have anything for me, does anyone know of any other poly coil spring isolators i can use? the factory Nissan isolators are very expensive, i'd rather get something else...

i use nuts and bolts...

so, since i have a RHD, i could fit a LHD steering box easily inplace of my IA, right? (since my IA is on the LH side of my frame) sorry, in a rush, didnt read through all this thread, this may have been covered... love the idea though...

nice, thanks james...

the York used oil for lubrication. thats what makes them so good for air compressors, because most ac compressors use freon to lubricate, not oil. the Sanden SD508 ac compressors used freon for lubrication, but there's a few things we can do to lubricate the Sanden for use as a air compressor. 1. put a grease nipple on, block the exit port, and fill with grease. lots of people do this. most seem to have good results. some dont. 2. add a air tool oiler on the intake line, and a air/oil seperator on the outake line. or block the exit port (the same way we block the exit port for the grease) so the oil stays inside the compressor where it is needed. this is what i plan to do. (there is no down side to this method of lubrication, except the additonal expense) 3. and the low-tech way- some people manually just pour in a tbsp of oil or so before operation with good results... originally i was going to go with the York 210, because it was a bit more powerful (10CFM), and because it was oil lubricated. but i realized i didnt really have the space for a York. they are much bigger. the stock ac compressor i have looks to be very similar in size to the Sanden i have. i dont have a lot of space to work with on the TD27T. the Sanden will fit in perfectly below my alternator when i pull my stock ac compressor. (i'm secretly hoping it will even fit inside my stock mounts, it looks that similar in size, but i'm not that hopeful, that would just make things to easy). i'm pretty sure i'll have to fabricate a mount. as you can see, i already have a mount for the Sanden, i just have to make it fit on my engine. cant wait to get started on this project! mounting will be the hard part. once that is done it will be easy to build the rest of the air compressor.

great insight mr.510... i dont think those custom uca's have been through much testing... sewebster- you could be right. i really dont know if we need 10.9 steel for shims either. i suppose there wouldnt be any forces applied to the shims, they are just there to create space. i know it couldnt hurt, but it also looks like i'll have to order 'em from the states, so i may just go with whatever they have @ the local hardware store... i dont think the moog shims are 10.9 steel...

i was thinkin of using washers for shims. i was gonna ground down some into different thickness's.. there was some talk earlier of using washers instead of shims. but, yes, i guess we need washers for the bolts themselves also, but i guess they dont need to be 10.9 steel for that...

for those of you in canada, we can get the longer uca spindle bolts we need here: http://www.desormeau.com/ they're $8.80ea and there's no minumum order. they dont have 10.9 steel washers though...

all i know is the centerlink part # for my truck is the same as the centerlink part # for the pathy of the same year... i'll be ordering a grassroots centerlink eventually...

great, thanks!

i got the one's w/ zerks... i was gonna mark my old tre's before removing them, so i knew how far each side was screwed into the adjusting sleeve. and i could count turns as well...

yep, according to my research, all '90+ WD21 are supposed to have 28 splines. and i also read that the terrano I is supposed to have 28 splines, and the terrano II is supposed to have 27 splines. but that doesnt mesh with my truck. i have a terrano I w/ 27 splines... so it would be cool to hear from other terrano owners how many splines they have... what about the pre '90 4cyl pathy, does it have 27 splines? do you think i could get cv shafts for that model to use on my truck? or maybe i can get 27 spline cv shafts from japan. although i was really hoping i could find some on this side of the water... adam- you said the attachment to the diff might be different for the different splined cv's, but i dont want to change my cv to one w/ different splines, i just want another 27 spline cv to fit on my WD21 terrano. so maybe the D21 27 spline cv will work? (since i already have a 27 spline cv)

i wonder what i should do when i need new cv shafts? if i get WD21 cv shafts, will it have a 28 spline spindle? will a 27 spline D21 cv shaft work on the WD21?