shasdakota

hey, thanks for the response guys! i totally understand how to deal with the spindle bushings now! Dowser- what steering situation are you reffering to? i dont have new tires to put on. and my steering isnt out of whack, i just have new tre's to install. are you saying i should install the new tre's before i install the new upper ball joints and uca's? thats what i was planning to do anyways... so, you guys dont think a 3" lift causes more wear over a 1.5" lift? i plan to make some slider plates to reduce the upward travel of the tre's/centerlink, and i also plan to get a Grassroots centerlink eventually, and i already have a idler arm brace. but i'm really having a hard time making up my mind about how much i want to lift. there seems to be more guys running into trouble when they try and lift the front high enough to match 3" lift coils in the rear. i've even been reading that some people cant get the front high enough to match 3" lift coils. some people say they can only get 2-2.5" of lift in the front, and i dont want a sloping front end.i want it level. i suppose its not the end of the world to get 3" lift coils, and if i dont like it, i could always get shorter coils, they arent incredibly expensive, or i could pull some JGC coils at the junkyard, and trim them down to size. i'm still interested in hearing your opinions. 3" vs 1.5" lift... if i get an alignment before i get new shocks, i wont need another alignment after i put in longer shocks, correct? i dont know if i have any shims on my uca spindle right now or not. do you guys generally need to add shims when you do a susp lift? what are you using for shims? and do you need longer spindle bolts when you add shims? i just realized the Superlift UCA's come with bushings. and i just bought new bushings at nissan for my uca spindle for $50! oops, wasting money here... if anyone needs stock uca spindle bushings let me know...

Ok, new plans. i think i'll get lift coils at the same time as i get the uca's, so i can turn up my t-bars and have everything fit right. but i'm thinking about using my factory shocks for another month, till i can afford some bigger shocks from bilstein. so long as i dont go off road, and flex out my suspension, i'll be ok with my factory shocks, correct? and i plan to take my truck in to nissan to have them replace some seals in my front diff, at which time i'll have them do an alignment, before i get new shocks. i wont need an alignment after i swap out my shocks for longer one's, correct? so, my other questions still remain also: 1. how hard is it to deal with the uca spindle bushings? do i need a press? 2. what your opinion on the difference in the amount of wear (on tre's/balljoints/centerlink) between a 1.5" and 3" lift? thanks guys...

well, i finsihed painting all the rust on my truck. i'd say i'm about 99% rust free right now, and it feels great to say that. the POR 15 rust paint is awesome stuff. all i have left to paint is my rear calipers and drums! and i also started installing some new poly bushings. i did the front sway bar yesterday, feels a bit tighter, and i'm gonna do the tension rods today, i heard those make the biggest difference. i pulled my rear sway bar while i was painting, and it feels fine driving without it, so its staying off from now on. i also fixed my rear gate lock! and i'm really happy about that. now i have all locking doors! i had to repair 4 different problems, in 4 different locks on my truck in the last 6 months! i'm becoming a master of the Pathy lock! i'm getting some custom flanges made up for my new Intercooler! cant wait to install that bad boy. but it will be a little bit yet until i gather all the other parts i need for it still. and i picked up a re-furbished Sanden SD508 AC Compressor to turn into a air compressor. i got a great price on it, about twice the cost as a junkyard compressor ($75), but i didnt have to pull this one myself, and its clean and re-furbished. it runs at 8.4CFM! i got a real nice adjustable mount for it also. i was gonna get a York 208 with 10CFM, but the Sanden is much closer in size to my stock ac compressor. i'm not sure i could fit a York, they're pretty big/tall. I cant wait to start this project, but i have a ton of projects on the go, and it will be awhile yet before i get all the other parts i need. but we will have on-board air one day!! i will probably sacrafice my AC for the on board air. my ac condensor is broke anyways. i might be able to keep my stock ac compressor if i lowered it, and placed the Sanden in the middle between my alternator and my stock ac compressor, and then run a belt off the stock compressor to the Sanden for power, but it will be alot easier to just pull my stock compressor, and put the Sanden in its place. plus i would have to add another pulley with 2 grooves to my stock compressor, because right now it can only fit 1 V belt. the Sanden compressor i got has a pulley with 2 grooves though. i'm moving next summer to NW BC, where i wont need AC anyways... next up will be to replace my tre's, and upper ball joints. and i'll be installing some SuperLift UCA's at the same time, in preperation for my upcoming suspension lift! like i said, lots of projects on the go! i can get some pics up of the new poly bushings from energy suspensions if anyone cares to see. just haven taken any pics yet...

thanks for the reply precise1... my stock t-bars havent started saggin yet. i plan on keepin them until i add more weight up front (bumper/winch)... now, i have another question, i've done some research, but i was hoping someone could clarify this for me. what should i do about the upper control arm spindle/bushings? my manual says i may need a hydraulic press to remove/install the bushings. and i dont have a hydro press. all of my rubber bushings are shot on my truck, i'm in the process of replacing them, i already have new bushings for the upper control arm spindle, and i read i can cut/burn the old one's out, i'm just wondering how hard it is to install the new bushings? is there anyway around the hydro press? can i use a C-clamp or vice to press in the bushings? and i'm looking for opinions on another matter. do you guys think i should go with 1.5" or 3" lift coils? i dont plan on running larger than 31" tires. i may move up to 32"x11.5" next time i need tires (i have to do the math), but definently not 33"x12.5". i'd like to run 33's, but if i did that i would want to get new gears to keep the ratio near stock, and thats to expensive for me, i'm trying to build my truck up on the cheap. so i dont need the extra room for tires. my main concern is reducing wear on tre/balljoints/centerlink. i plan to make some "slider plates" that kiwi pete has showcased, to limit the upward travel of my tre's/centerlink, and they will help, but i'm still trying to decide how much i want to lift. would you say that 1.5" lift would reduce wear enough to justify going that way? i'd rather do the 3" lift for the additonal ground clearance, unless the 1.5" lift will save me considerable wear. so lets hear your opinions...

think i'll go with superlift uca's, i want the ball joint to be at the correct angle... anyone know if i can install superlift uca's and use 'em at stock height? i hear the arms are actually longer, so i'm not sure if that would work. could i turn down the torsion bars to make the longer arms work at stock height? i have to replace my ball joints and tre's soon, but i'd rather put 'em on with the new uca's if i can, so i dont have to re-install the ball joints when i'm ready to lift...

yes, i was wondering about ball joint angle, i just didnt know how to tell. i already wrote the guy to ask about this. its someone over at Infamous Nissan making these. i never heard of that forum, i just found these by googling for WD21 UCA's. so you can tell just buy looking at the plate the ball joint is to sit on that the angle isnt good? whats the proper angle for a 3" lift? i guess that plate looks flat, no angle. i would actually like to do a 2" lift, but i dont know if i can get 2" lift coils, unless i cut down my own JGC coils... What about these? anyone familair with FabTech? someone's selling some Fabtech UCA's for the HB. so will the HB UCA's fit my truck? (i beleive so). anyone know anything about these?

Hey guys, i want to do a suspension lift soon, i just need to collect the parts, and i have a question for you guys. i came across someone who is making these adjustable UCA's for the Hardbody/Frontier, and i'm just wondering if you guys think i'll be able to fit them on my 1991 WD21? I know the super Lift and Rough Country UCA's made for the HB will fit on the WD21 Pathy. And, since i dont have any experience fabricating my own suspension components, i'm wondering if you guys can have a look at these pics and tell me if you see anything wrong or possible flaw with these UCA's. here's the pic's: Do you guys think their worth $300 bones? Or should i go with something already prooven like the SuperLift UCA's? I dont like how the AC uca's dont correct ball joint angle, and i dont want to buy new Calmini uca's (i would buy used calmini uca's though). and i dont beleive i have any other options. these custom uca's are supposed to be completely adjustable for caster/camber, and i like that about them. so lets hear it, what do ya guys think??

i used to have a IPF bull bar mounted where the tow hooks mount, and i have 2 tow hooks. my truck came with longer bolts on the drivers side to fit the tow hook and bull bar together, and i just needed to pick up longer bolts for the passenger side when i added a tow hook on that side. since then i have removed the bull bar, and now i just have 2 tow hooks mounted, so i cant get any pics for ya, but it is possible to run both...

nunya- yeah, i did take forever to dry, but in the end, it did dry... only time will tell if its more durable than regular paint... WD21overland- thanks man...

last week i sanded off all the rust on my under carriage, hit it with rust inhibotor, and put a few coats of some rubbery under carriage type of paint. here's some before/after pics. i forgot to take any "before" pics, but i had a couple from before. i also fixed the seepage you can see from the drain/fill plugs on my rear differential awhile back... i think it came out great, and i should be rust free for a while now. i also plan to do either a "Krown" rust treatment or spray on some "Fluid Film" rust treatment myself before winter. Fluid Film will probably be cheaper, but i think Krown will probably do a better job. not sure if you guys have Krown in the states or not, its just a rust proofing chain. Before: After: I still have to do the front end. and i'm gonna paint my brake calipers and any rusty front end parts with a brush and POR 15.n its been wet and cool here on and off for the last week. it's starting to be fall here. i really saved this for the last minute. i hope i can get a coat of paint on the front here soon because i've already done all the sanding and its starting to rust now! And i recently pulled my EGR valve, and butterfly actuator plate. my truck breathes much better now. it drastically reduced the amount of black smoke i see. and my turbo feels stronger! and i cleaned my intake manifold, it was filthy! I also connected a oil catch can before my PVC filter. my PVC is still vented to the atmosphere through a K&N PCV filter, but it goes through a oil catch can first to collect any oil. sorry, no pics, my camera just broke... And i have a intercooler and hoodscoop/bellows from a 3L Isuzu Trooper coming to me from England. got everything for $40CAD! had to pay more for shipping, $60CAD. should be a cool project. i still have to collect all the other pieces i need. silicone couplers, turbo and intake manifold flanges, T clamps, small e-fan and switch, boost controller, boost and EGT gauges, vacuum line and fittings, and i will need to replace my intake manifold relief valve with a bung. and i'll also need to make a some mounts for the intercooler itself. i think thats it...

ok. all the links seem to work now that i've posted them seperately for some reason. some great info in here guys...

aftermarket fuel pin: http://mandhinc.net/DPD-1-F.html

aftermarket fuel pin: http://www.dennytperformance.com/products.htm

fuel pin install: http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/0806dp_bosch_ve_fuel_pump_installation/photo_11.html

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31

http://www.tstproducts.com/vepumpadjustment.aspx

http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/general-patrol-discussion-17/adjusting-injector-pump-fuel-50641/

pics of "starwheel" and fuel pin: http://www.dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Governor_Spring/

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

http://www.dividingcreekroverimports.com/technical_info_from_the_web

http://www.fourwd.org.uk/bosch_ve.html

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/1stgen/inc-pump/inc-pump.htm

http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/cummins-diesel-performance-151/how-1st-gen-cummins-343676/

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/0803dp_1989_dodge_ram/index.html

yeah, i think the smoke screw under the AFC cover on the very top of the pump, the full power screw at the rear of the pump, and the idle speed screw which is also easy to access, are the most important, and you wouldnt need to move anything to tune those. but to get inside the AFC to adjust the fuel deleivery rate, or replace the fuel pin with an aftermarket pin, i think it would really help to remove the intake manifold, seeing as the AFC is directly beneath it. it might be possible to do it without pulling anything, i need to have a closer look first. i think i will try turning up my fuel by just adjusting the smoke screw, full power screw, and idle speed screw. that sucks my links dont work. i will try and fix them. there is some great info and pics in there. i just cut the address from th etop of the pages i was looking at. dont know why the links dont work. i'm not so computer savvy. all my bookmarks work though... and i also have some info on how to tune your wastegate actuator on your turbo, for those of you who want to turn up your boost. it's a good idea to also adjust your waste gate actuator, to make sure it starts to open at the pressure you specified when you turned up the boost. here's some links. i hope they work: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?104485