shasdakota

yeah, i think the smoke screw under the AFC cover on the very top of the pump, the full power screw at the rear of the pump, and the idle speed screw which is also easy to access, are the most important, and you wouldnt need to move anything to tune those. but to get inside the AFC to adjust the fuel deleivery rate, or replace the fuel pin with an aftermarket pin, i think it would really help to remove the intake manifold, seeing as the AFC is directly beneath it. it might be possible to do it without pulling anything, i need to have a closer look first. i think i will try turning up my fuel by just adjusting the smoke screw, full power screw, and idle speed screw. that sucks my links dont work. i will try and fix them. there is some great info and pics in there. i just cut the address from th etop of the pages i was looking at. dont know why the links dont work. i'm not so computer savvy. all my bookmarks work though... and i also have some info on how to tune your wastegate actuator on your turbo, for those of you who want to turn up your boost. it's a good idea to also adjust your waste gate actuator, to make sure it starts to open at the pressure you specified when you turned up the boost. here's some links. i hope they work: http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?104485

hey guys, we have a Bosch VE Fuel Injection Pump in our Nissan Terrano's. at least i do in my Gen 1 1991 TD27T. i will be adding a intercooler and boost controller to turn up my boost soon, and i want to turn up the fuel a little bit to match the increased boost i give it. so i started doing research on how to tune the Bosch VE fuel injector pump, and i found a ton of great info and pics. these links explain in detail how to tune the pump using about 4 different adjustments. so this info will be great for anyone who wants to turn up/down their fuel. it also explains how to diagnose exhaust smoke. depending when its happening, there are different adjustments you can make. here's some links: http://mopar.mopar19...mp/inc-pump.htm http://forums.lr4x4....hp?showtopic=31 http://www.tstproduc...adjustment.aspx http://www.dieselpow..._ram/index.html http://www.performan...cummins-343676/ http://www.dens-site...overnor_Spring/ http://dodgeram.org/...er/Power_ve.htm http://www.dividingc...fo_from_the_web http://www.fourwd.org.uk/bosch_ve.html and here's some aftermarket fuel pins that will increase your fuel delivery rate even more than the adjustments you can make: http://www.dennytper...om/products.htm http://www.mandhinc.net/DPD-1-F.html i had to read all the information over a few times before it all started making sense to me. and a lot of the links have very similar information, but i posted all the links because there is some info that is slightly different or more detailed on each page, and some pages have different pics. the hardest part for me will be just accessing my fuel injector pump. i cant remove my intake manifold because i have 2 bolts with snapped heads on them. maybe i will be able to swing my power steering pump out of the way to give me more room to work? i think it will be hard to make these adjustments with everything in the stock position. anyways, i've been very interested in this subject for a very long time. i know most of us TD27 owners battle with exhaust smoke, so i hope this info helps some of you. or if you want to turn up your fuel after you add a intercooler and more boost like me, these links have all the info you need. on a related subject, i recently got rid of my EGR valve and Butterfly Actuator, and it made a drastic reduction in exhaust smoke. i was seeing big black clouds at times, and now i cant get it to smoke even if i try. the most i see is a very light haze that disappears immediately. and i didnt even touch my fuel injector pump. my engine really likes breathing clean air. even my turbo boost feels stronger! i also vented my PCV to the atmosphere through a K&N PVC filter awhile back, and that made a big difference in the amount of exhaust smoke i was seeing at the time also. you could also use a oil catch can in place of the PCV filter here. for those of you who cant remove their EGR due to emissions testing, then you should be able to get good results by tuning your fuel injector pump. there are different adjustments that can be made depending on when you see your exhaust smoke. all the info is in the links i provided.

27. All done! have a look around your truck to make sure everything looks good and you didnt forget anything. check all your hose's, line's, wire's, and cables for excessive tightness. make sure your rad fan has enough clearance from fan shroud. start your engine and look for leaks from your rad, power steering hose's, and transmission cooler lines. go for a test drive and test your brakes and steering. cycle through all your gears to make sure they all clear. test your e-brake. now its time to get an alignment. Hope this helps guys. i really didnt have hardly any experience working on my truck when i tackled this project. if i can do it, anyone can do it. just take your time, dont rush. it took me a long time, but i had to learn a lot for myself during this project. leave yourself at least an entire weekend to do this job. feel free to ask any questions.

Nice! Thanks Towncivilian...

does anyone know the part # for the tranny filter screen in the pan for the WD21? I cant see it... http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?ModelName=Pathfinder&ModelYear=1991&ModelSeries=WD21&FileType=277&SelectConditions=%281%3dW%3b2%3dVG30E%3b5%3d4WD%3b6%3d4D%3b%29&ShowConditions=%285%3d4WD%3b6%3d4D%3b%29&seeDesc=False&goBack=True&SectionNo=F&ComponentsNo=311&ComponentsIndex=5

a few of the projects i tackled this week: added a torque converter lock-up on/off switch: made some drop down brackets for my e-brake: started wiring up my 3 gauge console. i only have the volt meter connected right now. and i'm still looking for my stock oil pressure sender. (TD27 owners please chime in). its supposed to be on the right side of my block, but i cant see it. i mounted my "C" cell mag light in my cargo area: i picked up a 10,000lb rated tow hook for my rear end, but i havent mounted it well yet, and i still need to pick up another one for the other side. this pic just shows where it will go: i cant mount it on my frame under my bumper, because the "hook" part of the tow hook rubs against the bumper... and i also installed a new radio antannae, and i fixed my horns! its great to have horns again. i live in a crazy city, and you need a horn just for waking up the driver next to you who's about to do something stupid. and i started waterproofing all the electrical stuff on my truck. next week i plan to notch my floor around the t-case shifter, make some rubber "boots" for my t-case shifter, install waterproof breathers on all my vent lines from diffs, t-case and tranny, replace my tailgate lock assembly with a new one i pulled from the scrapyard, and make a bracket for my new tow hook. i'm also waiting for tons of nissan parts to fix various things around my truck, and i'm gonna tackle all the rust on my under carriage. right now its not much more than surface rust. i plan to sand off as much rust as i can without dis-assembling everything, and then hit it all with rust inhibitor. they say you can put rust inhibtor straight on top of the rust, without even trying to remove it, so i should be ok leaving a little behind. i know it will be impossible to do a prefect job without dis-assembly. and after the rust inhibitor i'm gonna hit it with some "underbody" paint. its sort of like truck bed liner. its supposed to dry kinda rubbery in be very durable. and after that i'm gonna get a rust treatment for the winter. i plan to start doing a rust treatment before every winter from now on. and thats just for the near future. i've been getting a lot done on my truck, its really starting to come together...

installed a snorkel... Slashjt- i'm sure the donuts were fun, but i'm not sure it tests the LSD. i saw how ARB demonstrates their air lockers, and they drive up an incline with one rear wheel on rollers. without the air locker engaged they show the truck slipping, and with the airlocker engaged they show the truck getting traction. i'd like to do a similar test with our Nissan LSD's. trying to think of what i could use inplace of rollers. as i dont happen to have a 15' length of rollers kicking around...

good tip adam. how'd you fit your ARB bumper with a body lift? did you have to customize it a little bit?

Now to continue with the Body Lift Install... 20. Re-connect as many brake lines to they're respective brackets as you can on the firewall and frame without putting to much stress on the brake lines. i was able to re-connect a lot of mine. enough to make everything secure. you could re-locate your mounting brackets lower down if you so chose. Also, pick up some new zip ties so you can re-wrap all your hose's/wire's in the engine bay. 21. Install your bumper re-location brackets. They are the 4 metal plates with 2x holes on each plate provided with the kit. Attach one end of the re-location bracket to the original bumper bracket, and attach the other end of the re-location bracket to the original hole on the frame. I forgot to take good pictures during this part of the install (my bad), but what you are essentially doing is using the small re-location brackets to raise the original bumper brackets up 3". it will make sense when you have everything in your hands. These are the best pictures i have showing the re-location brackets. the re-location brackets will sit at a 90* angle to the frame, not sitting diagonally as shown in my pics. The IPF Bull Bar on the Nissan Terrano will not fit back on properly after you lift the body up away from the frame. you could technically re-mount it, but it will rub against your bumper now, and it will sit way to low. it wont offer any protection now, not that it offered much before, and it wont match the contours of your truck anymore. i found my truck looked better without it. 22. Re-place your floorboards in your truck. you may have a hard time squeezing the plastic edge on the carpet back under the floorboards, i did. but they do fit back underneath. you sort of have to fold the plastic and push it underneath with a flathead screwdriver. pay close attention to how the plastic edge on the carpet comes from the factory when you first remove your floorboards. 23. You will have to cut the floor to extend the notch for your transfercase gear shifter, so it is able to reach 4LO, and you will also have to bend the stock gear shifter to make it fit right. you can use a longer length of pipe over the top of your gear shifter to get the leverage you need to bend it. start slowly, bend a little at a time and test the fit. turn the gear shifter knob to the left to remove it. after you raise your body up, the t-case will be 3" lower from stock height, and you wont be able to engage 4WD without doing something. we have several options. at first i was hesitant to cut my floor, i didnt really want to. but after having a look at it, i realized the floor is already cut, all your doing is extending that notch cut for your t-case shifter. "kiwi pete" recomends designing a rubber "boot" for the top and bottom of your t-case gear shifter after you notch the floor. When I notched my floor i was able to get my stock t-case shifter to clear 4LO, but i wasnt able to bend the shifter to the correct angle. i tried with a length of pipe, but i didnt have any room to leverage it around with the shifter still attached to the t-case. you could try taking it out and putting it in a vice, but i heard you can do it with the t-case shifter still installed in the truck. I opted to notch a corner of plastic off of my center console. I also had difficulty trying to make a rubber "boot". it came out really bad, so i will have to pull or order another t-case gear shifter boot. mine was in bad shape, all decrepit, and torn up. if your t-case boot is in good shape, i dont see any reason why it wont seal your floor afterwards just as well as before, your only extending the notch in the floor by about 1" square. on the inside i used my stock vinyl t-case gear shifter boot. you could make a rubber boot for the interior so as to make it more waterproof, but i think if your bottom boot fits good there's no reason for this. here's some pics of my floor notching: Your other option is to source a t-case gear shifter from a Hardbody. those trucks came with a slightly longer t-case shifter. i guess you will still need to cut a bit of plastic, but nothing major. Here's a link to a thread on this topic: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1884 Here's a link to a thread detailing how to remove the t-case shifter if your planning to swap it out with a Hardbody shifter, or you plan to cut/weld/extend your stock t-case shifter: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8104 24. You will also have to make some drop-down brackets for your e-brake. after you lift the body up, whenever your truck gets lifted up at the garage under the frame, there will be so much tension on your e-brake lines that the e-brake will engage and you wont be able to turn your wheels. you could even damage some parts or rip them out if your un-lucky. you can just un-bolt the e-brake brackets if you need to have your truck lifted at the garage before you get around to making these drop down brackets so that you dont damage anything at least. i also read this can happen on the trail, if your rear end is at extended drop, so you will have to come up with something eventually. this is what i came up with for my drop down brackets: right side bracket: left side bracket: If you weld you could easily make something much better. You can also flip your rear axle, as shown here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29777&st=0&p=564840&hl=+flip%20+axles&fromsearch=1entry564840 25. You can also raise your rear bumper. I dont have any pics of this process, but it was very easy to do. all i did was remove my rear bumper brackets and raise them up on the frame. you will already have the holes you need on your frame. this will al lmake sense once you go have a look at your truck. its about a 20min job, and it makes the rear bumper fit the truck much better. after the body lift your rear bumper will be 3" low and you will be able to see all the wires used for your rear electrical system. this idea is brought to us by "unccpathfinder" and "simon" Here's a link to a previous thread of mine with some pics on page 3 with unccpathfinder's raised rear bumper: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30686&st=40 26. You will probably have to make some larger gap guards for your front wheel wells. if you dont your gonna get tons of crap thrown up into your engine bay, and salt during the winter. i had a hard time sourcing rubber. eventually i used "dance floor" given to me by my neighbour. i heard you could also use pond liner or semi truck mud flaps. First i put a nut and bolt through all the holes i wanted to attach my gap guards, and then i hung my gap guards over the bolts and added another nut to keep the gap guards on. this way when i need to do an oil change, i'll be able to simply remove the first set of nuts, and peel back my gap guards, and the retaining bolt will be held in place by its own nut. this idea is brought to us by "ahardb0dy".

Hey guys, thanks for the props. i'm not quite finished yet though. should be done here today though. first i will answer Dowsers Q: the first little cooler you see is a B&M cooler, but its way to small, i presume your asking about the part # on the larger cooler i mounted at the end. its actually not a B&M cooler. i got the large cooler from Canadian Tire, and i also saw them at Parts Source. i dont have the part #'s anymore, sorry. it was about $60.

15. Extend the fuel and vent line. use the 3/8" hose provided in your kit to extend the vent line. extend your fuel line using the spacer provided with the kit, or just buy a longer hose. if you use the fuel line spacer you will have to use some lubricating oil to slide it inside the hose, its a very tight fit. Install: 16. Extend the cross member bracket that runs under your rear propellar shaft. Use the 2 rectangular brackets provided with the kit. 17. Re-install your steering shaft, if you had to pull it. the bolt you removed on the lower part of the steering shaft used to clamp the shaft around the spindle on the steering box will have cause a slight indentation on your steering box spindle. you will be able to see it clearly. try to line up the bolt in this original groove on the steering box spindle. although, even if you dont line up this groove, it doesnt seem to affect your steering or anything. 18. Re-connect 5/8" input hose to power steering resovoir. The 3/8" output hose will have to be removed and replaced with a longer length of hose. 19. Place radiator back in your truck. you will have to trim the fan shroud to be able to make it fit. now that you have raised the body up, the engine and fan will be 3" lower than it was originally. this also gives you an additonal 3" of space in your engine bay, and you will be able to access your oil filter by reaching in over your front left hand tire. you will no longer have to remove your tire to do a oil change! If you use a radiator drop-down kit, you will not have to trim your fan shroud. although i have yet to hear of anyone who has had any cooling problems by leaving the fan 3" lower than the rad and trimming the fan shroud. maybe if you pull a trailer through the mountains or something and you need as much cooling ability as possible you will want to add the rad drop-down kit. If you decide to leave your rad where it is and decide to trim the fan shroud, start by trimming less than nescessary and slowly trim your way to a prefect fit. This is where i started trimming: Re-connect your lower rad hose, it will fit. Trim about 1.5" off of each end of your upper rad hose in order to make it fit without kinking. start by trimming less than necessary again, and work your way to the ideal length needed. Re-fill your rad and cooling system resovoir. Re-connect your input and output lines to from your rad to transmission. OR now would be a great time to install a external transmission cooler if you have a automatic transmission.

11. Make sure everything is dis-connected. Re-check engine bay and along frame for any hose's, wire's, etc that i may have missed and make sure everything has enough slack for lifting. Its time to start lifting! 12. Swap out all your old body bolts with the new longer bolts that came in the kit if you havent yet done so. Make sure all the nuts are removed from your body bolts, and make sure your rear and middle bolts are loosely threaded up into they're respective captive nuts. this is to ensure all the holes will stay aligned when you lift the body up away from the frame. particularily the rear bolts are important to keep loosely threaded into they're captive nuts. if you try lifting the body away from the frame the rear bolts most likely will nut line up when you try to thread your new body bolts in. i have read of this problem several times online. 13. Terrano owners must make a platform with scrap wood (use 2x4's, 2x6's, 4x4's, etc) that extends below the running boards to be able to lift the body. the wood will have to be cut to length to fit in between the running board brackets attached to the underside of the body. Or you can use 2 floor jacks on either ends of the running boards and lift up the truck under the running boards. i have seen one Terrano owner use this method. you must use 2 jacks though. i tried lifting under my running boards using just 1 floor jack in the middle of the running board, and it started to bend well before i had nearly enough lift. i suspect even if you use 2 jacks, the running board may bend a little because they arent designed to bare any load. I didnt want my running boards, so before i lifted my truck i chopped them off at the brackets with a angle grinder. i still have to go back and tidy up my cuts with a dremel tool. Its next to impossible to remove your running boards at the brackets so you could re-assemble them after removal. you would have to pull out the seats and peel back the carpet to gain access to the majority of the bolts holding the brackets to the underside of the body. these running boards were put on at the factory, and i guess they presumed nobody would ever want to remove these things. Once you have a platform built between the running board brackets or you've removed your running boards, your ready to lift. also build a small wood platform under your floor jack if it has wheels to prevent it from rolling. Make sure the jack does not touch any part of the body rocker panels, cause it will cause the rocker panels will get damaged (dented) if they bare any weight. Use wheel chocks or wood to block your tires from rolling. Place jack and wood platform in the middle of your truck, and lift one side at a time. As soon as you have enough space between the body and frame, slide in your body lift spacers. Remember to torque your body bolts to that specified in the FSM. you can also use blue lock tight if you so choose. 14. Now its time to start putting things back together.

6. Pull back rubber cover over upper and lower portions of the steering shaft and mark the location where the shafts meet so you will be able to see how much they extend. although it should be easy to see this regardless because the part of the shaft which extends wont have any paint on it. The AC instructions ask you to remove the bolt that clamps the steering shaft around the spindle on the steering box. Shown here with ratchet over the bolt: With bolt removed: The problem i see with this is once you remove the bolt, there's no way the steering shaft will magically extend on its own when you lift the body up. the steering shaft will simply fall off the steering box. if you dont remove the bolt, then i could see the steering shaft extending when you lift it, since both ends of the steering shaft will be attached something will have to give. the steering shaft will either extend in the middle or it will start to pull off the spindle on the steering box. i would just keep a very close eye on things as i lifted. if the steering shaft starts to slide off the spindle on the steering box, stop so you dont ruin the splines on the steering box spindle. I removed the bolt as AC asks you to, and my steering shaft didnt extend on its own when i lifted the body up like the instructions say it will. it simply fell off the steering box because there was nothing to keep it on there anymore with the bolt removed. I had to completely remove the steering shaft and then put it in a vice. i lined up a piece of wood so that when i hammered on it with a rubber mallet, the steering shaft would extend. (sorry i dont have any pics of this procedure). Steering shaft after extending: (notice where the paint is missing) 7. Remove the transfercase shifter boot: 8. Trucks equipped with automatic transmission dont have to do anything regarding the tranny shifter. if you have a manual transmission you will have to notch the floor for your manual transmission gear shifter to clear all the gears. 9. Remove the cross member bracket running under your rear propellar shaft (drive shaft): 10. Remove the plastic cover over your fuel and vent lines. located in your rear right hand wheel well. dis-connect the hose's to be extended later:

5. Remove fan shroud. you will have to drain and pull rad first. remove rad cap before draining. drain rad: Dis-connect and label transmission input/ouput hose's: Dis-connect lower and upper rad hose's: Remove rad. then pull fan shroud. you will have to remove the bottom portion of the fan shroud in order to pull it past the fan:

3. Start pulling apart everything attached to both your frame and body in your engine bay. the AC directions wont match the Terrano engine bay. Remember to dis-connect your negative battery terminal(s) first. Cut all the cable ties used to hold wires together to provide wires enough slack when lifting. remove all brake line brackets from firewall. or seperate brake lines from brackets. Follow brake lines down right side of frame and remove all brackets holding brake lines on frame. Remove all brackets holding hose's in engine bay to provide hose's enough slack during lifting. Re-check to make sure all wires, hose's, cables, brake lines, etc between frame and body have sufficient slack for lifting. 4. Instead of removing your power steering resovoir like they have you doing in the AC directions, just drain the resovoir and seperate the input and output hose's.

2. Next make sure you can remove your front bumper and bumper brackets. if some of the bolts are seized and you need more tools, you can still drive at this point, if you switch your old body bolts back in place or do this step first. Front end intact: Terrano owners with IPF bull bar will have to remove that first: Bottom plastic bumper cover removed: Top grill removed: Front bumper removed. (Terrano owners must remember to dis-connect their headlight fluid washer hose's). Entire front end pulled except bumper brackets. (remember to pull them also). (The small rad you see mounted infront is a external trans cooler. it was to small. i have since replaced it with a larger trans cooler and properly mounted it. make sure you buy a big enough trans cooler)

sewebster- interesting... i was also thinking along those lines, which is why it would be better for me to use ATF fluid in my t-case since i have a auto trans...

Hi guys and gals (i know we have at least a couple here), as some of you may know, i recently completed an Automotive Customizers 3" body lift on my 1991 Nissan Terrano. this is the process i used to install my kit. i did a lot of research before i started and everything came out great without any real problems. the directions that come with the kit are severely lacking, and i would even argue in the wrong order. These directions will work for Terrano owners, and also Pathfinder owners, although the Pathfinder owners will have a completely different engine bay, and everything will be on opposite sides, as my truck is RHD. Tools Needed: *metric socket set *breaker bar OR length of pipe to fit over your ratchet *screw drivers *3 ton floor jack (more is better)+ wood to build platform *saw (to cut wood) *pump (to drain power steering res) OR turkey baster *utility knife *lubricating oil *rotary dremel type tool or hacksaw (to cut floor) *rubber mallet (to pound on steering shaft if it doesnt extend) *torque wrench Optional: *axle stands *wheel chocks *simple green extreme & paper towels (to clean up fluid spills, etc) *blue lock tight (for body bolts) Additional Parts: *3/8" hose (to extend power steering output hose) *rubber (to make larger gap guards in your wheel wells and also make transfercase boots) The AC instructions have you ripping up your engine bay first. we will start with the body bolts. in my research i determined the most common places people have trouble is with removing the 2 rear body bolts, and i also read of people having trouble removing the front bumper if the bolts are seized up and really rusted. so instead of starting by ripping up your engine bay, and then discovering you cant remove your 2 rear body bolts, you'll be able to drive to the store to pick up more tools if needed. where as if you start ripping up your engine bay, you'll have to re-connect everything or take the bus to the store if you dont have a second vehicle. so start by making sure you can crack all your body bolts. and your front bumper. if you cant remove your 2 rear body bolts, you will have to cut through the floor, as illustrated here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325&st=40 there is also a cleaner way to do this, i saw a thread with pics, but i dont have it. it was done by either "unccpathfinder" or "jadm4x4". they used a hole drill bit. now we will start with the body lift kit installation i used on my truck. 1. Check to see that all body bolts will loosen. i even pulled my old body bolts and replaced them with the new longer body bolts provided with the kit so that the bolts would keep all the holes lined up when i lifted the body away from the frame. The rear body bolts are accessed from below, there are no nuts. The 4th bolt (2nd last from rear), is found under the rear back seats. you will have to remove the floor boards and trim to be able to pull up the carpet and gain access to the bolt. This is what the 4th bolt will look like after you remove the hard plastic cover over the top of the bolt. I had to chisel the hard plastic cover out. i could not find a way to remove it intact. you may have better luck. The 3rd bolt (middle bolt) is pulled from below. there isnt any nut. The 2nd bolt is located under the carpet in the front seat. you must pull the floor board just like you did in the back seat. This is what you will find. a plastic cap covering the bolt, just like in the back seat. After you remove the cap you will have this: The 1st bolt (front bolt) is at the very front, under the fender. shown here with 3" spacer already installed. (i dont have a before pic). Place all the bolts you pull seperate zip locks and label. you will be pulling a lot of bolts during this installation, and this will make re-assembly much easier. you can also take pictures before you start dis-assembly to aid in re-assembly. (To be continued. please refrain from posting until i get all the steps listed)

when i googled "rated tow hook", thats the only hit i got... i'll have to search harder to find one on my shores... and i clarified that i wont have any problems with hitting the cross member or binding a link or loosing a shock. these are problems that may be encountered with a susp lift only, and especially if i have longer shocks for extended drop, thats when the drive shaft would hit the cross member. i picked up some materials to build a drop down bracket for my e-brake cable. if i make a 3" drop down bracket everything should be fine. but i dont have a welder (yet), so i'll have to bolt everything together... and i had a better look at my tow hook placement. they're right on the end of my frame. i would have to be at almost a 90* angle for any tow straps to rub against my bumper. i'll try and get some pics to show this. i have these 2 plates left over from my AC BL kit. someone said they thought they might be for extending my e-brake, but i dont see how, they dont seem to fit there. does anyone know what these 2 plates are for?

hey Dowser, thanks for the links, i'll check 'em out... the light in the rear is on a swivel mount, i can bend it up so its flush against the bottom of the body, under the cargo area. which is what i would do off road. it seems to be in the same place as everyone else who has mounted a reverse light. and i didnt even put this light on, it came on the truck, it was bent and had a broken bulb for 2 years, i didnt even use it, i think its a no-name light, if i smash it, then i'll know where not to mount a good reverse light. for now its staying where it is... your example for the rear tow hooks is a good one, in that situation yes, the tow strap would rub on my bumper. but i put those hooks on as a temporary solution, not as the end-all-be-all tow hook. i havent pushed my truck off road very hard, i'm trying to build it up a little bit before i push it to hard, and also i'm mainly working right now. i'm building up my truck for my move back to BC where i will be using my truck off road a whole lot more. and i dont intend to use it as a rock crawler. if i wanted to build a rock crawler i would have started with something with a solid front axle. i'm trying to build an expedition type truck, it will be used off road of course, but i'm not trying to prove anything while i'm out there, if there's an easier route to take, i'll take it. it seems to me the only way to avoid the problem you mentioned would be to have shackles mounted on your bumper, like your pic. otherwise any tow strap/chain used on a tow hook under the vehicle will cause stress against the bumper in your example. i would like to get a steel front/rear bumper but i'm also second guessing it. i dont want to put that much $$ into this truck. i plan to upgrade to a Patrol or LC in the next few years... if i end up tweeking some things off road in the meantime, so be it, it comes with the territory.... look at all the guys who bust centerlinks, idler arms and tie rod ends off roading with a susp lift and big tires on these trucks... nothings perfect, sh** happens... EDIT- just read through your links! great info and pics! i cant be bothered flipping my axles, but i think i will try and make some drop down brackets. and i learned of another problem area, the cable being pulled at full drop. i wonder if i can just dis-connect my e-brake bracket when i go off road? its not the greatest solution, but it should prevent me from breaking anything. and whats this i read about binding a link or loosing a shock at full drop? is this a common problem? should i be getting some limiting straps for this? and what about the driveshaft hitting the cross member? Does this only happen on trucks with a suspension lift and body lift? or does this happen with just a body lift also? i'm interested in this tranny spacer i read about. seems more research is in order now... EDIT x2- is this your tow hook pete? http://www.bushranger.com.au/tow_hook_with_keeper.php#.TlJ4LGG9HRg

so, yesterday i drained my t-case. when i cracked the t-case fill plug a few days ago, the fluid inside looked black. so i presumed gear oil, not ATF, like my Haynes manual suggests for the '91 Pathfinder. but yesterday after draining my t-case, i realized the "gear oil" wasnt actually black or gear oil colored. it was really dark brown. and it was a different color from the old gear oil i drained from my front and rear diffs. it didnt really have that ATF smell, and it certainly wasnt red, but i'm thinking thats what it is. it also had more of the consistency of ATF fluid, not gear oil. So then i did some more research on some NZ 4x4 forums with much more Terrano info, and it seems the '91 diesel, auto trans Terrrano may indeed use ATF fluid in the t-case. its all a little nerve racking, i cant seem to find a solid answer that everyone agree's with. i need to find out if i have the same t-case used on 1991 Nissan Pathfinders. if its the same, then i need to put ATF fluid in my t-case... EDIT- well that was easy enough. i do have the same t-case found on Pathy's. so i need to put ATF fluid in my t-case. just incase any of you Terrano owners are wondering, i thought this info may help.

hey pete, thanks for the pics. i got ya now... my rear light has been there for years, its not possible to hit it on anything. its under the truck. and the hook can swing around whatever way it likes, it cant make contact with the light. the light is also on a swivel mount, i can bend it back to move it up and out of the way if needed. my pic must be playing tricks on your eyes... i came across a post on your build thread where you said you extended the parking brake lines. I'd love to see what you did. when my trucks gets lifted under the frame at the garage, there's so much stress on my parking brake line that the rear wheels wont turn. so now i have to un-bolt the brackets on the parking brake line before i take my truck to the garage. i have some ideas, but i'd like to see some examples. Or did you just get longer brake lines? your tow hook does look like the 4Runner tow hook. i pulled one at the scrap yard but i would have to re-drill the bolt holes on my frame to make it fit on my truck. and if the Nissan hook is rated, i doubt the Toyota hook is rated either. I'm sure lots of people have used these factory Nissan hooks for recovery, but i hear what your saying. you guys from new zealand seem to know about all sorts of fine details cause you have to do so much testing before they let you bolt anything onto your truck down there...

ahhh, should have known to find a factory service manual... their really that much better, huh? the more i been using my Haynes the more frustrated i been getting. theres not enough info and tons of misprints. i ended up finding the rotor install info i needed. it was in my Haynes, just not in the chapter they referenced... and i found info for packing the wheel bearings in a different place than they had pointed to also... good info, thanks guys. what i really need is a Terrano FSM... but i really dont think it exists. there's quite a bit of differences between the Pathy and Terrano. but i'll download the '94 FSM since its free, and see if that helps me any. thanks for teh link rich... EDIT- just downloaded the FSM and its WAY better than the Haynes from the little i looked over. MUCH more detailed. and the '94 seems to match my '91 truck for the parts of my truck that match the Pathy. (not surprisingly) If anyone ever see's the Terrano I FSM for download or for sale, please pass it along...

good info pete. fixed the front bumper. somehow lost a bolt on the re-location brackets, and thats why it was tilted... the rear tow hooks cant bind on anything, or hit the light, and they arent mounted very far back, they're right near the end of the frame. must just be the picture... i will look for rated tow hooks, i really didnt know the front tow hooks werent satisfactory, so thats good info. i'm glad i didnt spend $45 for it like they ask on-line! not exactly sure what your reffering to here: "Some 5mm+ thick angle iron was used on my original ones, two holes drilled for bolts to go in chassis where factory hooks go and two holes drilled horizontally for the rated hooks with a packer washer ground to fill in the hole for the towing eye, large hole, if you get my drift?" i guess i would have to see the tow hooks for it to make sense...

updated pics. i just couldnt handle being made fun of, hehehe, just kidding, i know my rear shackles looked silly. so i swapped 'em with these until i pick up some bigger shackles. And here's my front tow hooks, painted blue... Stay tuned guys. i finished writing out my body lift install instructions and organized all my pics. i just have to type everything up on here for everyone else to see... EDIT- Wow! didnt realize how bent my front bumper is... not sure exactly what the problem is there. i remember it was hard to get back on. maybe the bumper re-location mounts need to be adjusted...