shasdakota

i found dex II @ crappy tire... they had lots of it... but i also returned it for Mobil ATF Dex VI... and i found all my grease points and added nipples... and realized my lower ball joint grease resovoir is cracked. its made of rubber, and all the rubber on my truck is shot. guess i should have been applying silicone lube to keep the rubber fresh, but i havent owned this vehicle fore long, the rubber has been degrading for a long time now... does anyone think i can just glue/bond the rubber resovoir back together? thats probably just prolonging the inivitable, i need to replace my lower ball joints. and my upper ball joints are getting ready to crack... wow! my repair list is never ending! good news is i'm running out of places to look for problems. i think i've gone over almost every inch of my truck over the last few months. so i shouldnt have to many more surprises... i also have another question for you Terrano owners. (remember i have a diesel auto trans) i thought i had ATF fluid in my t-case, but i finally managed to remove my drain/fill plugs that were really stuck, and i dont have ATF fluid in there. its gear oil. just not sure what kind. GL$ or GL5? how much does it matter? does anyone know what fluid the t-case in a '91 diesel Terrano wit A/T uses? And i found out i have a LSD rear diff. nice surprise. eventhough i cant upgrade to a locking diff now, i wasnt going to do that anyways. just cant justify putting that much cash into my truck. but its a good thing i used LSD gear oil when i changed my rear diff fluid a month back... EDIT- i contacted some Terrano owners and have come to the conclusion i have GL4 80W90 in my T-Case. and i just picked some up, so thats what i'll be using... Edit x2- i tired looking through my Haynes, but i didnt have any success. can anyone tell me where i might find my in-cabin air filter? not even sure i have one...

thanks for all the replies guys... i decided to just go at it, and i got everything done. it was easier than the manual made it sound... wd21overland- thanks for the link! that would have been really helpful! old slow- one of the reason's i decided to just go at it was because i realized if internet thread responses are getting to me, i need to spend less time on the computer... i understand you were trying to help, and you did, it got me looking in the right direction, even if i didnt find it myself. it was a great thread with pics, just what i would have needed. i've been doing a lot of research here, and it seems in so many threads somebody has to say "go search", and i just dont get why people always have to add that. we all know the search function is hit or miss. and i thought my first post made it clear that i had done some research before posting. i always do. but sometimes i will make a mistake and ask a question that has been answered. i'm sure everyone here has done so at one time or another...

i did search dude. on here and google. and i looked manually for your CV shaft replacement thread, i cant see it. and it wouldnt have come up if i was searching for rotors install anyways... i hate redundant q's as much as the next guy, but the "go search" is just as annoying. i found out i need to replace my seals, but i'm at a loss for the rest. if anyone has a link to this info, please let me know... EDIT- i see threads about CV shafts, but none have the pics i need...

hi there guys, i got another project on my hands and could use your help. i got a damaged front rotor, so i went and bought 2 new front rotors to replace it with. i checked my Hayne's manual on the procedure, and i have a couple questions. i understand how to remove the brake caliper, but then it asks me to remove the hub dust cap, cotter pin, adjusting cap, wheel bearing nut and washer, but it doesnt supply any pictures. i tried pulling up the Nissan parts schematic, and i dont even see these parts listed... and then for installation it says refer to chapter 11 for repacking the wheel bearings and installing the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle. but when i go to chapter 11, i cant find any information on this subject... So if anyone can help me with this, i'd really appreciate it. I tried searching on-line, but all i found was info for the R50 and Xterra. i found some great info on how to repack the wheel bearings, but i'm at a loss for the rest of it. on the xterra rotor install i was reading they said they had to replace the outter grease seal on the front hub. it doesnt say anything about this in my manual though. does anyone know if i need to replace these seals also? i found the part #'s i need, and it's compatable with the pathfinder and they arent very expensive. thanks again guys on helping me with my never ending list of tasks i need to perform on my Terrano! on a side note, i have finished up writing my body lift install directions and sorted out my pictures. all i need to do is type it all down here for everyone else. stay tuned... josh

interseting... the reason i been using dexron II and DOT 3, is because that's what my manual recomends. i never knew they were compatable with others. thanks for the info, i'll look into it for next time... i really dont know if i have an in-cabin air filter either. i'm still at a complete loss for information for anything that doesnt have to do with the TD27T engine or that doesnt match the Pathfinder. i'll check my Pathy manual, and if i dont have a filter where they point to, then i have no idea how to find it, besides asking more questions here... i dont know the history of my transmission very well. so i should probably drop the pan and clean/replace the screen. just been putting it off because i have to drop the cross member and bracket to get at all the bolts. i'm going to add a trans temp gauge soon and a external in-line filter, so i was hoping that would take care of teh filtering, but i guess the stock screen in the pan would still be possibly clogged and restricting fluid. i'm not familiar with other vehicles. i only know a little bit about my own. but from my experience, they make doing any maintenance on these trucks a total PIA.... maybe all vehicles are quirky in this way, or maybe its just japanese vehicles, i have no idea, but they even make it hard to do an oil change on these trucks, and that seems a bit rediculous. I feel like they were almost trying to make things hard when they designed the truck. it cant all be coincidence. maybe they want you to take it to the dealer everytime you need something done. EDIT- i havent flushed my tranny/t-case/power steering yet. i'm planning to do it this weekend. i still have the receipt for my Dexron II ATF fluid, so i could exchange it for Dexron VI. i noticed the power steering fluid at the Nissan dealer was Dexron IV (not VI), but i just presumed it was for a different vehicle... EDIT x2- so, should i order another "screen" filter, or just clean it? EDIT x3- how many grease nipples/points does a 1991 Terrano/Pathy have? where are they located? does anyone recomend adding a zerk fitting to grease any other particular part?

wow, those look good.... i think i'm gonna check those out also... 5523Pathfinder- on the AC website they dont show the big 4x4parts.com image on their skid plates. do you think things have changed since your plate is 6 years old? i'd rather have a plain one...

i really dont know, sorry... but if you want a rad drop-down kit, let me know. i got one for sale just like everyone else here it seems, hehehe... i guess you really dont need it, unless you want to add it for piece of mind, or unless your truck runs hot without dropping the rad, but i havent read of anyone having this problem yet...

Well, here's mine... Fluids: *Engine Oil- Shell Rotella Diesel 5W40 *Coolant- Motomaster Diesel Pre-mixed *ATF- will be flushing tomorrow (i was waiting on something. will use Motomaster ATF Dexron II) *MTF- N/A *Brake Fluid- DOT 3(will have to check brand) *Power Steering Fluid- (drain and fill tomorrow. will use Motomaster ATF Dexron II) *Front Diff- (?? will be changing very soon) *Rear Diff- Motomaster Heavy Duty Gear Oil APL GL-5 SAE 80W-90) *Transfer Case- (will change with tranny tomorrow. using Motomaster ATF Dexron II) Filters: *Oil Filter- Sakuraba (Japanese) *Air Filter- K&N *In-Cabin Air Filter- Nissan Original (may need replacing?) *Fuel Filter- Nissan *ATF Filter- Nissan Original (may need cleaning/replacing) -Change Intervals- Fluids: *Engine Oil- every 2-3 months *Coolant- Every 2 years *ATF- Its been 2 years, but i plan to change that to 1x year) *MTF- N/A *Brake Fluid- Just changed it. dont know when it was changed last. plan to start changing it every 2 years. *Power Steering Fluid- Dont know when/if its ever been changed. I will be changing it very soon, and plan to keep changing it every 2 years. *Front Diff- dont know if its ever been changed. Plan to start changing it every 1-2 years. *Rear Diff- 1x year *Transfer Case- Its been 2 years, but i plan to start changing it 1 x year* Filters: *Oil Filter- every 2-3 months (@ oil change) *Air Filter- K&N Filter needs cleaning every 6 months/1 year or whenever it looks dirty (Guaranteed for 10 years or 1 million miles or something crazy like that) *In-Cabin Air Filter- original. maybe i should change it... *Fuel Filter- 1x year *ATF Filter- probably original. dont know the history. i plan to add a external ATF filter. does the filter/screen in the ATF pan still need cleaning if i do this? And I been using Moly-Lithum Grease on my drive shafts, etc every 6 months or when needed. I've been doing a lot of maintenance/fluid changes lately. after i flush the transmission, transfer case, power steering and front differential i will have new clean fluids all around. I knew i had a in-cabin air filter, but i didnt know when/if i was supposed to replace it. i dont even know where it is. i'll have to check on that. and as far as the ATF Filter, do i need to clean/replace the screen in the ATF pan if i add an in-line external filter? Adamzan- I'm in the same place your are regarding your front differential. I cant get my fill plug to budge. i tried jacking up the front end to have lots of space for leverage, and i attacked it with a 1/2" drive breaker bar and PB spray. that didnt work. then i learned i can get a special socket for japanese differentials that will fit tighter than a 1/2" drive. i ordered it, got it, tried it, but i still cant get it to move. and now after all the wrestling, the fill plug bolt is starting to get damaged (stripped), so i'm stopping before it gets any worse. its aluminum and very easy to strip. my drain plug will loosen. I recently had my truck in at the garage for an alignment, and i asked them to diagnose some possible leaks. turns out i need a bunch of seals replaced in my front differential. so i'll let them wrestle my front differential fill plug out. I figure worse case scenario they can drain/re-fill it using just the drain plug since they have to pull the whole front differential and axle apart to replace these seals. but i hope they can get it out. I'm looking at $350-$400 labor + parts (about $100-$150). I looked into doing it myself, but i'm not exactly confident about doing it. i really dont have a lot of mechanical experience and pulling my front diff and axle apart is a little more than i want to tackle on my own. sometimes i wish i had a buddy with experience to help on these kinds of projects, but mostly i prefer working alone...

this is my family. i'm not a big people person. these dogs have been better than any human, man or woman, i've ever met, (tied with my mom). This is Shasta, this pic is from her 10th Birthday, (she's 10 1/2 now), and she's in great shape! she has a little arthritis in 2 of her toes on her paw, but it doesnt affect her very much. she has a little grey on her chin, but she gets mistaken for a much younger dog all the time. i hope she lives another 10 years! i got her at 3 months from the SPCA. i think she's a lab/border collie/shepard mix. she's been very healthy throughout her life, she's very smart and she has a great personality! And this is her little sister, Dakota. this is pic is from the day we brought her home, about 1 year ago. she's just 2 months in this pic. and she's just over 1 year now. i think she's a pure bred red heeler, australian cattle dog, she's just a little small, about 40lbs. she still may fill out a bit, but she wont get any taller/longer, and she's quite short. we picked her up at somebody's acreage outside of town. they werent breeders, they just had a female red heeler who got knocked up by their neighbours blue heeler. i saw Dakota's mom, she was a regular, full size cattle dog, and all the pups looked pure bred. they all have the white forehead stripe mark called the "bentley mark" which came from the original cattle dog 125 years ago in Australia. she only had 4 brothers and sisters, so 5 total pups, and i didnt think there was a "runt" with so few pups in a litter, they could have all found a nipple easy, and they were all the same size when i picked her up at 2 months. maybe her dad was small, or maybe he was even mixed with a smaller Australian Kelpie? they look very similar to the cattle dog, and i think they were also originally mixed with the dogs to create the cattle dog 125+ years ago. I didnt see her dad, but Dakota does have a fair bit of black on her, and she wouldnt if both her parents were red heelers, so it makes sense her dad was blue. anyways, her size really doesnt matter. she's smart, in great shape and healthy, and she has a great personality, and thats all that matters. my 2 girls have very different personalities, but they're both very balanced and smart. dakota loves all people and dogs, and shasta is really only interested in me. but neither one of them are scared of anything, and they both love the outdoors. They both love the water! real water dogs, they cant get enough of it. we live right beside lake ontario, and the dogs get to go swimming almost everyday. Shasta evens swims in the height of winter. i've even seen her break thin ice to go swimming! she's crazy, but the cold doesnt seem to bother her. i think little Dakota has become such a strong swimmer from watching Shasta. they both jump into the water doing a "deer jump", and i think the little one learned it from watching Shasta. she's full of spunk right now, a real little beast. if i didnt have time for her she would be very destructive and wild i think. but luckily i have the time/patience. she'll be a great dog when she's older. There's no other girl i'd rather have in my life than these 2!

i can play this game. been working on my truck almost everyday lately for the last 2 months. yesterday i didnt get much done. i mounted my newly painted blue tow hooks, and i think they look great. i recently pulled another front tow hook from a scrapped Pathy so now i have 2. strange how they only give you 1 front tow hook from the factory... i mounted my new 3 gauge console (voltage, water temp, and oil pressure), and picked up all the wiring parts i needed, but have yet to wire it up yet. i recently painted my little IPF bull bar flat black, but yesterday when i went to re-install it, i realized it looks like crap now that my truck has a body lift. it sits way to low, and doesnt follow the contour of my truck. i think my front end looks better without it, and the little bull bar wouldnt do hardly anything for protection the way it sits after the body lift. really starting to think about adding a new beefy steel front bumper. either custom made or an ARB. I know they stopped making them for my truck, but i found a couple stores that still have a few in stock. but i want to mount a Mile Marker Hydraulic winch eventually, and i dont think it will fit on the ARB, without modification at least. and i think i should upgrade my steering before adding that much additional weight to my front end anyways. and i have a couple other big priority's, like a snorkel and Yakima cargo rack, that i'd rather have right now. my "to-do" list is actually seeming to get shorter, i've made a lot of progress lately. today i plan to start wiring my 3 gauge console, re-connect my factory horns because the after market Bosch horns that came on my truck are broken, pull off my old t-case shifter boots so i can "trace" out a new pattern with rubber, remove whats rest of my old running board brackets, and i want to pull my front L fender to see if i can tap out that dent so i dont have to source a new fender. gonna watch some you tube videos on the process. and i have an appointment to get an alignment next week. plus i'm in the middle of flushing all of my fluids, just waiting on some things to complete whats left, my tranny, t-case, front diff, and power steering. then my truck will have nice clean fluids all around! on a side note, i recently did an oil change a couple days ago, the first one i had done myself in a very long time, i had been taking it to a garage, and when i went to remove my old oil filter, the thing was cranked on there so hard i didnt know if i was gonna be able to get it off. I wasted about $50 on filter wrenchs, i broke 3 metal strap type wrenchs, and bought a couple more that wouldnt work on my truck because there's so little space to work with, and then i bought a pair of plier type oil filter wrench, and that finally worked, now i'm not letting anyone touch my truck unless i absolutely have to. and i think i may still install a oil filter re-location kit. after i did the body lift i thought i really dont need to re-locate my oil filter, but after having to wrestle this last filter off, i realize having more space to work would be a major benefit. (or just make sure you dont crank your oil filter on with 200lbs of force!). i'm also thinking of doing a seafoam treatment in my fuel filter to run through my fuel injectors. i'm not sure if they need a cleaning or not, but i figure it cant hurt since they probably havent been cleaned in 20 years. i dont think it can hurt anything. and i still want to pull my intake manifold to give it a good scrub. just waiting on a JDM parts order for my new intake manifold gasket... and thats just what i have planned for the near future. i'll be busy for a long while yet. and the upgrades will never stop! good luck with all the work guys!

right. i thought if i dont have ABS, then i dont want to hold constant pressure on the brakes if i'm braking hard.

sewebster- yeah, i know, not exactly heavy duty. thats the biggest they had @ crappy tire... they'll take a 3/4" chain though, so they'll work 'till i get bigger one's...

ok, great sewebster, i'll see if i can find it. its good to know it doesnt change the way i use my brakes having rear ABS only. i didnt know that. i'd still love to see a pic if anyone's got one...

unccpathfinder- guess i misunderstodd what you did... now it sounds to me more like what i just did??? anyways... your pics are great! but i didnt take all my pics for nothing, and some things on the Terrano are slightly different. figure it wont hurt to have more info up. and did you write anything to go a olong with your pics? i forget? i think adding instructions to go along with a good set of pics would make this job a lot easier for everyone. the instructions that come with it are severely lacking, and i would argue parts of it are even in the wrong order. if there's a way to post your pics as a sticky here, that would be great for everyone i think. but i dont know how to do it other than transfering each pic to photobucket and then going from there, and i'm to busy to do that right now... so, the Hardbody t-case shifter worked for you? you didnt have to cut the floor? I remember reading a whole thread on the subject, i think it was created by statikuz, the same one who made the main body lift install directions thread here, but i could be wrong. i thought i had bookmarked it, but i guess not, and now i cant find it, but i'm kinda to busy to search really hard right now. anyways, the short of the thread was, he sourced a hardbody t-case shifter, installed it, and still ended up having to cut the floor to get into 4Lo. so maybe you did something different than him to make it work? i'll try and find that thread. i'd rather not cut my floor also. a new hardbody t-case shifter is like $125 from Nissan, a little more than i want to spend, but maybe i can find one at a scrapyard, eventhough i've never been to the one in my area, its in the suburbs about 1hr drive from me, so i keep putting it off. here's a pic of my raised rear bumper. wish i had some before and after pics, because i think it looks way better now. i can see much more under my rear end, and it follows the contours of my truck with a body lift much better now. you can also see my Hi Lift mounts, they work great. my Hi Lift is very secure back there, it doesnt budge a bit, and my rear wiper still works. I used a small U-Lock bike lock to secure it to my spare tire carrier. and you can also my tow hooks that i recently painted, drying underneath my truck. I just realized i've painted them very similar to the Calmini blue. totally wasnt my intention. i just wanted a color other than black, and that was the only blue they had at the hardware store. I still need to source a 31" spare... And here's a shot from the side. i guess my rear bumper sits at a very slight angle also. i couldnt even tell until i looked at the pics. its very minimal, and really doesnt bother me. in real life its even less noticeable. And a shot from the other side:

hey guys, does anyone want to snap a pic of their ABS module? I'm still not sure if i have ABS or not. i just dis-connected my negative battery terminals when i did my brakes. I looked for my ABS module near the B pillar on the frame, and i followed my brake lines looking for them to lead into anything, and i dont think they do, but i'd like to be sure, as having ABS or not changes the way i should be using my brakes. and i'm not exactly sure what my ABS module would look like. Those of you with ABS, do you have a ABS warning light on your dash? cause i dont. thanks guys. long- thats just what i did.... I just re-checked my Hayne's Pathfinder manual, and it seems there is a mis-print in the manuals for LHD Pathy's. I wasnt sure why some guys posted the order the way they thought the brakes should be bled and put RF before LF. if your supposed to go from bleeder valves located from furthest to closest to MC, on a RHD vehicle it would be: LR-RR-LF-RF, just as Long and i did. on a LHD vehicle it would be: RR-LR-RF-LF. So those of you with regular LHD Pathy's, you may not want to follow the sequence found in your manual. they say to go RR-LR-LF-RF. i think you LHD owners need to switch RF before LF.

ahardb0dy- yeah, i know you suggested to find 'em locally. i'm sure we got a truck dealer here, probably several, but nothing came up on my google searches. i'll have to hit the yellow pages (forget if you guys have those or not? havent been to the states in 10 years almost, yellow pages=phone book). heard you got colored money now though. bey ya tons of stuff has changed, i used to spend tons of time there, but thats off topic... nunya- we'll get a pic up later, forgot how much you guys like pics, hehehe....

great, thanks long! your sure the top hose is the input, right? dont mean to question your answer, its just that i'll be cutting my hose's to add a cooling flush kit, and also a water temp sender, so i want to make sure i have the right hose. and, yes, i'd love a copy of that manual, i really appreciate the offer. i have a TD27 service manual, a big one in a binder, so if you have the same thing, i already got it, but your sounds different (smaller), so i am curious if it has different information. i'll send you a pm with my email... appreciate it, josh

well simon, it was just as you said pretty much. i raised my rear bumper using the 2 holes already found on my rear bumper bracket. one hole lined up perfect, the other hole didnt, i had to drill it out to make the holes match, and i had to cut the bracket in half that was used to hold the 2 bolts together at a specified space because the spacing wasnt right for the new holes, but it was minimal work, and it came out perfect. its perfectly straight, and looks like it came from the factory. thanks a lot for the tip. i was putting this off cause i didnt feel like cutting my bracket in half or flipping it, even though flipping it wouldnt be much work, it seems like it makes the bumper sit at a bit of an angle, i could be wrong though, i've only seen it in pictures... maybe i'll get a pic up if anyone cares to see how it looks. ahardb0dy- i did some internet surfing today and couldnt find a canadian retailer for rubber semi truck mud flaps, so i contacted the company you linked, and they want $80 shipping to mail me some mud flaps! unfortuantely i just cant do it. but it looks like they would be right for the job, so now i just need to find a canadian or local source... and now that i've raised my rear bumper, i really only need rubber for gap guards. i'll use the thinner rubber i have for the t-case shifter boot... i had a look under my t-case shifter today and there's also a rubber boot underneath, mines totally decrepit and ripping, so i'll replace that boot also, and have a kind of double boot. then i'll silicone the seam between the boot and floor, for both top and bottom boots, and again up top around the t-case shifter in the cab, and it should be really waterproof. i know water will come in through the doors if i really push it deep or sit in the water for long, but i could see the t-case boot being a point of access for water also.

Simon- thats interesting. havent heard that yet. why is everyone doing modifications to raise the rear bumper then? i'll have a look on my truck. thanks for the idea.

HydroCeramics- just noticed your offer! thats very considerate, i really appreciate the offer. i've recently done a big parts order from Nissan, and i've aquired a few other parts from scrapped Pathy's, there's not much i need left now besides some interior parts, and a front left fender, but i can pull that from any Pathy. the only thing i can think of right now that i need for a TD27T is a intake manifold gasket, but it not like they're re-useable, so i dont think i need anything right now off a TD27T. thanks a lot for the offer though, i'll get back to you if i think of something. Thanks, Josh

hey all you guys down in NZ/AUS!! i'm looking for some help from one of you '91 Terrano TD27T owners. Does anyone know which is the input/output hose leading from my thermostat through my firewall to my heater is? I have some pics and a better explanation posted up in one of my other threads here, just scroll down on the first page: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30855&st=0&p=584958&fromsearch=1entry584958 thanks for the help guys, Josh

thanks for all the help guys! did my brakes yesterday. everything went fine and my brakes feel great! my opower bleeder worked great. highly recomended to anyone who has to work alone, or just prefers working alone. it makes the possibilty of air being sucked in almost impossible, unless you run out of fluid in the power bleeder. my brake fluid wasnt that dirty looking, it was dark yellow, like veg oil, but now it's clear! i've had the vehicle for about 2 years and i this is the first time i've done it, and there's no records of it in my maintenance records from the previous owners, it may have never been done. the bleeder valve's were very stuck. i had to use a piece of pipe as a breaker bar to open the valves. Dowser- The only manual i have specifically for my Terrano is just for the TD27T engine, its more of a engine service manual than a Terrano service manual. It doesnt cover anything that doesnt have to do with the engine. Its all i can find for my truck, and i've done a lot of research. so i'm using a Haynes Pathfinder manual for the rest of my truck. I thought i was supposed to work from the the brake bleeder valve furthest from my MC and work my way forward. my MC is on the right hand side of my engine bay, so i went LR-RR-LF-RF. if anyone knows where/how to get a Terrano manual, please let me know. Sort of off topic, but i dont want to make another dedicated topic for this subject. does anyone know which hose going from my thermostat through my firewall to my heater is the input/output hose? it's not covered in my TD27T manual, and its different from the Pathfinder. This is where i'm still at a loss for information because i dont have an actual Terrano manual. So far as i can tell it doesnt exist, but i dont know how that could be. i've contacted retailers in NZ/AUS that sell the TD27T manuals, and they've never heard of a Terrano manual either. if nobody knows, then i guess i will have drain off some coolant from my rad, disconnect both hoses from my firewall, put them in a bucket, turn my truck on, and see which one spits out coolant. but if somebody actually knows which is which, it would make my job a lot easier. here's some pics of my thermostat-heater hoses: Here you can see both hose's exiting from my firewall, going to my thermostat: The top hose goes here, it is the hose on the right hand side of the picture (left hand side of engine bay). And this is where the bottom hose leads, it is the hose on the left hand side of the picture (right hand side of engine bay). All the help is always appreciated!

ahardb0dy- hey, great idea. those are huge. those will definetly work for gap guards and a new t-case shifter boot, might be even to thick to form a t-case shifter boot, but i have thinner rubber already that should work well for that. its not long enough to cover the gap caused by raisng my body 3" above my rear bumper, but thats ok, i should really raise my rear bumper rather than cover the gap...

ahardb0dy- great idea about mounting the gap guards! i think i will definently be copying that idea! I may try and raise my rear bumper as has been suggested, or i may just cover the gap with rubber and rivets or bolts back there also... i want to get a custom rear steel bumper made up eventually... i found rubber floor mat sold by the meter/yard @ the hardware store, the thickness is perfect, but it has raised treads all along it. it doesnt look so bad, but it clearly looks like a floor mat. I could use the back side, but its not the same rubber looking surface on the back, it clearly looks like the backside of a floor mat (hard to explain). hoping to find just regular flat/smooth rubber at the right thickness. looks like i'll have to make a drive out to this landscaping nursery and have a look at their pond liner... who would of thought it would be so hard to find some descent rubber??

silverton- thats how it seems... strange how the manual directs you there... the last time i helped my buddy bleed the brakes on his car, i was the helper, and i wasnt paying attention real well, but i'm pretty sure he just started at the wheels....