nismothunder

Cut th grill so the wal-marts cheapy fog lights would be more flush, replaced the Stock shocks with the auto magic adjust factory ones and wired it decently, added a mistory button under the dash that I have never figured out what it did. And Smoked crack in it.

Ha, Por-15 the choice of half-ass body shops every where. FYI 3m brush on rust reformer is better then this.

Colar palace rust reformer is okay. I used it and a lot of others on my trucks. I used to use the 3m stuff but it would disapeer over winter and leave the same old surface rust. On my one rusty truck I currently run colar palace with a top coat of the 3m stuff and it has not rusted since. Rustoleuim hammered while not a rust convertor is a very good rust cover, my frame horns on my one ford are covered with the stuff and it has not cracked, failed or started to rust blister.

Alaska doesnt have smog right? Replace that weeny engine with a gm one and you wont ever have a problem again, really I did it. If you want to rebuild this engine then by all means go ahead. How many miles are on your engine and what weight oil were you using just for laughs. vg's are gutless but are pretty hard too kill for a stock engine. Best of luck patching your truck back togeather.

Go to a local tractor supply or like wise hardware/ equipment store and buy one for 3 dollars install and send your bill to calmini.

You guys mean, like I can just unplug them?

Any other changes? new tires? Tires low on air? I wouldnt worry about it myself. Does the tranny seem to slip at all.

Yeah, replace the frame with one thats not made from pot metal. And make sure the the drain holes in the frame are not blocked, which is genrally why they rust out. They block up and the frame acts as a tank holding liquids. Despite what the tv shows tell you cans of POR 15, RustStop, EvapORust, and so on do not work, there is not a thing out there that will fix rusted metal except cutting it out and replacing it. Bed liners and under coating do work, but only if you dont plug the drain holes. I like the 3m underliner thats bought at wally world.

1. The tranny will not build pressure with the engine off and the wheels and shafts free wheeling. So not every thing gets lubed, So you burn your tranny up flat towing it with the shafts in place. Not a myth, its a common fact. Hell the army pulls shafts when tey tow something. There is acutally a pump that will lube a AT tranny while towing with out the need too pull the shafts. But its after market and runs off the tow truck. Since you need too replace varius parts of the stock a/t with diffrent parts I'm gonna guess that the OP has not have this mod. 2. And yes, you do not need the cooler to test the tranny ( Like what we are trying too do. I offered a solution to finding out if the cooler is in fact plugged.)

Still running the stock atf cooler?

You could remove both the inlet and outlet hoses from the cooler and branch them with a piece of rubber hose.

They have it pretty well covered. Worn parts lead to the thing known as "deathwobble" One of the canooks on here (Adamzan?) had it but it was his upper arm bushings(?) Check the easy stuff, retourqe the wheels, hell it could be a broken belt in a tire and give the truck a really good wash. Then crawl under and pull on stuff to figure out what could be worn/is worn. If you hit something hard enough too possibly bend a wheel I'm guessing you broke one or more belts in a tire(s) Best of luck in fixing your @!*%.

Depends completly on how much he rev'ed it in gear if the trannys still good or not. Slush boxs are easy to kill when run with no line prssure. Thats why you genrally pull the drive shafts when towing a pathfinder/every other car.

I got a set of 4 chrome 15inch rings for those if you want them, there currently on my old Ford. They dont look bad but it has stainless versions of those wheels. Yeah, those Eagles are ugly. I hope to gawd they aint clear coated. Took it on a shake down run, my claws suck ass on river rock and I crumpled my trailers fenders. Besides that it ran good. And you, Ahardbody, do a sit up will ya. lol.

Your gonna have too weld perchs too your 44 (if your running a jeep or bronco front 44) anyway so, yes they will match up with out any unforseen problems when you update from the 30.

6.7 miles

Thats what my driver side looked like, my passager side was oddly new looking. When it heated up it would weld it self too the rotor at the strangest moments. Made for interesting driving habits. Yes, thats probly the date for when the wheel was forged. 10-18-91. My way to decoding the japanes words is to go to google translater and type dirty words until I get one that looks like the casting.