nismothunder

As long as you wait for the tranny too completly engauge you are fine. Just for laughs whats your milage, my 95 never had any delayed shifting when it blew up, but yet my th700r4 in my camaro has had delayed shifting (park to drive/reverse) for the last 50k (current 270k). As far as additives, I have used both Lucas and Prolong. The Prolong will make it shift funny compaired too the lucus but I suspect thats caused from being a thinner fluid, were the lucas is thicker, which I suspect raises the line pressure.

Anything except Fel-Pro is my understanding.

What do you mean it smokes? Like something smokes under the hood while cranking (not starting) Or it blows smoke after the engine starts. Besides that the basics. Oil and filter change Timing belt inspect/replacement Antifreeze change Fresh fuel with a HD engine cleaner (seafoam, Lucas) Other fluid level checks. Probly a new rotor and cap since there probly correded pretty good. Fuel filter change after a few fill up's.

Never "broke" a rachet with a cheater bar. Now I may have one that is a little sticky when changing direction's but it still works. Oh yeah, oil your tools if you want them too last you buncha dorks.

Or one on your oil filter.

Studs are better then chains hands down. A lot less hassle then getting out every couple of miles too tighten the chains or too replace a broke link. Brake lines and wheel wells like stud's a lot better then chains too.

Yeah, it would be a must have if I couldnt hold a wrench and turn it. Also, how does it better a factory replacment plug? I mean most replacement plugs have magnats on them to collect metal.

4.5liter v12's. Enough said right there. Those cars are ment for wide open, high rpm driving. Not stop and go/ city driving. But hey, 128 fiats have hand operated chokes and idle controls in the cab, that makes it a tractor in my book. But hey, Everything american made and asian imports are copied from those cars. OHC's, all-wheel drive, hell fiat tractors have Hemis. But this is all off topic of this guys thread (sorry Derek?)

Hmm, wouldnt the "old Italian tune up" only clean the valves, and then only if you run leaded fuel.

TTB, Broncos, f150s and regular duty f250s built from 1980-1996 all have this front end. Its the swing axle front. The f250hd and F350 is a solid axle. I know the f350 shock mounts are longer then the f150 singal shock, the duel shock front maybe the same.

x2, usally not needed unless one breaks while removing. Did a 3.8 toures and the head bolts were 200 bucks so needless to say they never were changed and the motor was still going strong 50k later when th car was finally junked. And, weld your frame! Its not hard, it just seems like it is from what everyone else says. Hell, mine is mixed-and-maxed with flat 1/4" stock and 2x2 pipe. Has never bent or needed to me rewelded after countless jumps and fireroading at 80mph.

OHC makes everything a PITA so 1500 doesnt sound that far out of the ball park to me. It doesnt matter what head gasket he blew, both need too be replaced. The point of using power tools on a head gasket change is lost on me, theres really not anything you can use them on besides the exhaust studs. A breaker bar is a must have, a rachet with a cheater pipe will work but it may kill the rachet if your trying too loosen head bolts since there usally on there pretty good.

No idea, but ttb front coils provide greater lift then jgc coils in the rear. So, probly the front shocks.

Wtf is wrong with that speedo? ^^^ 4.3s go 240-500, head gaskets useally let go at around 250. But theses are all ethier plow trucks or c2500s that are beat to @!*%. Vg's can last a long time if taken care of and not beaten. Mine died at 189k but it was beaten by me and beaten before me. Changing the cam seals while doing the t-belt is a great idea, just a FYI on that.

Or hose clamps if you feel like your hard core.

Removed drive shaft and then reinstalled it. Tractor didnt start then lost interest. Yesterday I removed the grill and changed a flat tire. 8 degrees out. Now getting drunk.

I've had very good luck with the pellot style Bars stop leak on the retarded hidden under the intake hose. And there engine stop leak for a rear main seal. Thats all I'm gonna say, oh yeah, Caterpillar and IHC both add Bars/house brand too brand new equipment. So, if its ok in 500,000 dollar equipment, I'm gonna say its not gonna hurt a $1500 truck.

Your 100 percent right if hes running leafs in front. The 78-9 wont work because the radius arm mounts are cast in. Now a 77 or older model 44 will work since they have weld on mounts that can be cut off. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_2.htm A link too front ford 44 info. Also has jeep 80-91 44 front info. Maybe very help full too the OP. And a link of 78 bronco 44 with leafs just for giggles. But it is on a heep http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=642752

78-79 Ford f150/bronco axles will work, but they are a little widder then the fsj's.

Header wrap is worthless on trucks that see dirt use. What RJ said is true. If I remember there is a fiber glass backed steel mesh flexable heat shield that you can buy, which would work compaired too the hassle of cutting a larger section of pipe (or sheet metal) for a shield. I dont think high temp paint is a good idea for exhaust pipeing, claded peices tend too rust faster for me when painted.