nismothunder

A sticky hub or tires. Mine would go side ways in 4hi with bald tires on slush like nothing.

Head unit is failing or bad connections and as that Pink guy says, the caps and tabs. Also, I dont know if the factory cd players have removeable faceplates. If they do clean the contacts. My old ALpine did this.

One of the best feder repairs I have seen, and the fact that you took the time to explain it is great. Usally its just a before and after shots.

Not being a smart ass or anything but are you 100 percent sure that the imput shaft is in the correct way? Both ends should be splined and its not hard too drop the @!*% and pick it up and put it in the wrong way.

Yeah, I was being a smart ass, saying you would gain 150hp with the correct stickers. Looking back the whole H instead of five surprized me since I didnt know what I said. Shorty headers= high rpm power Long tube = low end tourqe and custom tuned headers = best of both worlds. Thats all there is too know about headers in a very condensed lesson.

*snitcher* *points* ha-ha. Dumb ass. *throws can of Rolling Rock at computer* Not really a mega, life shortening problem. Drive it so it chews the cap up then drain the fluid. Whats so hard, its not like the gears are gonna be hurt by $.0003 of polystyreen or anything.

150 hp with the correct stickers. Really, maybe h useable hp and ditto torq.

Wet weather traction? On snow or water? Well theres only one brand too run then. Pinnacle.

Pressure washed its since it was 50 out today then decided I didnt want too rearange the shop so thats as far as it went. The Tractor ate its fly wheel so it would been a pain anyway. Tomarrow I'll fog it with ether and see if it'll run. Still looking for a t-case. Maybe the tx10 will be flipped.

Did mine at a car wash a few times, always was a bitch too keep running for a few minutes after first starting it up but never had a problem.

Now theres a good &^%*ing idea. Agreed, I used too run MMO,Seafoam, B12, snake oil and Stay-Togeather-Please in all my trucks. Now I settle for a engine flush every 30k using Gunk. Buts thats a idle for 10 minutes and then change other wise it may kill your botton end stuff. MMO works, but all it does is clean your engine/injectors/valves depending on were you use it. I mean its a solvent, people use it too free stuck rings and to remove cylinder wall glaze. Do you really want a solvent in your oil? STP and Lucas are heavy weight oils with additives that do the same thing. If I were to run anything for the duration of a change it would by STP or lucas, since it doesnt thin the oil out. For cleaning the fuel system it would be one of the solvent based fluids (MMO,B12, Seafoam) But thats just me, I'm not holding your head under water demanding that you believe in the all mighty god STP (or MMO,b-12, etc.)

A knock is a knock, not a tap or a sqeak. The sqeak is probly a belt or drive pully (probly the ac belt). The tap from what you say is now damn near 100 percent a lifter in my book, and that means nothing. This is a video of a 300i6 knocking And a injector tick just too throw you off.

Mine has the same issue, I just learnt too deal with it. But when I started driving it everyday it did happen less often. My problem was the starter not completly disengauging when it would start, didnt make any noise just wouldnt start with out hitting the key a few times.

I dont think this was what P1 meant. I think he meant that 5w-30 syn oil is too thin. Which is true, its closer too a 0w/5w-20 then a regular dino 5w-30. Simply pour syn and dino 5w30 side by side and you can see the diffrence. And unless the engine has insanly low miles or has just been rebuilt theres really no point in using a fully synthetic base 3/4 oil in the engine.

Its fine, drive it. Just for laughs check the dust shield on the tranny and see if that is coming into contact with the shaft. My diff had a palm full of metal bits in it and it never complained. Hell, I can still reach up in the drain hole and scoop stuff out. But too me it sounds like a a wheel bearing more then a diff problem.

Lies!!! Back fire through intake It burns dont it. Timing related.

Holy @!*% your fast at responding. Check the water pump play and if thats fine flush the engine and see if it gets any better. Lifters arent a big deal, more noise then harm.

Sticky lifters? Yeah, there old trucks that most likly had dino oil ran in them the first 17+ years. Refering too a farther as an It isnt the brightest thing to do.

The locktite didnt cause it, but you should use antiseize instead (just cause I say so) Just for laughs, the noise does go away after the engine has warmed up right? If not then yeah, its something else. Like a lifter or something getting bitchy.

Depends on how wide you go and if you want too cut the fenders. It you want skinnys and your ok with cutting I say a 37x10.5 will fit. I mean really, you can fit 35s on HB's with no lift and lots of cutting or 44"'s** with 7 inchs of lift and cutting (but driving on a curb stuffs them) If you dont believe me I'll find the pics of the hb on 44s. A 33x10.5 will fit stock. A 33x12.5 needs 3+3* and some triming. * Some folks consider a T-bar crank and new rear coils a 3" lift. ** your IFS wont live in anything other then mud with tires bigger then 33x12.5 or skinny 35's.

You are no joke the only other person on ANY forum besides myself that I have ever seen metion this. For this you get a hearty golf clap from mn. 65-75 is probly the best, mine would get 20 mpg when I first got it at this, thats with crazy misgapped plugs that probly had 100k on them. I had a high of 23mpg on a 4x4 trip with 30k old AC plugs and a new cap and rotor, with the 4.6 gears and 29-30ish tires aired too 40. But these are all 100+ mile trips on the freeway.

Same with cam seals, you might as well replace them when your doing a timing belt even if there not leaking. Tighten the cover and see if it stops. But most likly its just a bad gasket, the newest wd21 is 17 years old now, stuff just wears out. But was the oil that you found on the passager side valve cover clean or dirty, since theres no such thing as a funnel at wal-mart. Brake cleaner works good at clean built up oil, but it will remove paint just as good.

Yes, I believe the factory fill was J type. Dex III or Dex Iv (VI?) can both be used. Ones a syn though. Or just buy a non-factory pan filter.