nismothunder

lol. 1994se, what where you trying to ask a while back? Or should I say WAT?!?

Yeah no I went out and looked. Its behind that panel but you cant see it from the littl door. If its not there then its been removed.

It varys from state to state on 'if there legal or not' but genrally they have too be replacing "stock" equipment. Like if your fog lights are broke or you had them on a targa bar. But then again I get flashed for drive with my fogs on.

Those have a habit of burning fuses real quick kyle.

Nope, not it. This is more of a A/T Huh? Be more coherent in you responses plezzz http://www.todoautos.com.pe/f60/4-llantas-aro-15-para-camioneta-4x4-bridgestone-desert-dueler-205-70-r-15-ht-114191.html This is the tire (the ad, not the photos), I guess its a older model because it doesnt say H/T and doesnt have the very center thread.

It is behind the passager side rear cargo area plastic panel. If you open the little door/hatch thing you will see the ass end of it.

Put a gallon of pre-mix fuel in it and the battory from my camaro in it and the bitch starts like nothing. Doesnt explane the very evil noises it made before dieing last time but oh well. Now too change the tire and idle the pig onto the trailer to take it to have the front end chopped off and have chevy 62" springs welded on. Anyone know what a Dueler 684 is? That a Desert Dueler?

+1

Well Dodge has been doing for years and there still around. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/2779430152.html Dog crap Nice http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/cto/2749919909.html

I heard a story from my auto teacher about a students car, a mid 90s caprice in the high 200k range and the orignal plugs. It ran fine with those plugs but ran horrid on new ones. Wouldnt idle, bad mpgs, ended up needing all igniton parts. When I got my 95 it had champions that where worn badly and mis gapped from .02-.07ish. It loped like it was a push rod cammer engine. But it had better power strangly, but cranked a long time before starting. Ended up swaping in AC's and netted a 2-3mpg gain.

Some people want cars with more charactor then 4 slabs of dry wall or an egg plant. Thats all.

As bad or not at all. Since, when on pavement/hard surfaces the 4wd WILL pull/bind. If a hub was out it wouldnt pull in the front at all since there is no front locker and the hub that is broke is where the power will go too. Although it maybe the hub locking in and out but I highly dought that because it would make noise. The best bet is tie rods, alignment and correct tire pressure. Plus having thread on the donuts helps.

The sudden shock affect has always worked for me. Its the same thing as hitting a breaker bar with a hammer.

Looks like a prison.

The easy way is too kick the 1/2 rachet like a mother. Always worked for me, the shock load would loosen the built up rust. But of course it takes skill too do this. One foot holds the rachet/ extion in the plug and the other boots it. With out the proper skill you get a flying rachet. And yeah, the t-case is always filled with ATF. The only reason people run gear oil in it is when they have a 5speed, if a seal falls it doesnt dilute the 90w with atf.

Is this the same glue that holds the Titans "fully" boxed frame togeather? From what I've seen it looks like typical uni-body rot, Jeeps, civics, Geos, hell every uni-body car does it. I'm not a mega fan of caR50s or even Nissans in genral (I like mine) but at least they took a step in fixing the problem. Hell newer Jeep Wranglers have Frame rot problems that there not fixing. Not too metion the hoards of 10 year old JGC's that have there towers welded.

Well at least we've got this figured out. Now what grey is better? My vote is 93+.

Those tires are DOT rated, so there on road tires. Legally. Thats some straight bull @!*% there trying too pull. Dont tell me you got them at wal-mart.

Unhook the battory and see if it goes away, its getting more air then its ment too. Most CAI kit tell you too unhook your PCM fuse before install since it'll usally throw a code after install from the increase in air flow.

lol wtf. lol Adam ur an ass.

Does the rear chatter? If so then you need a LSD aditive. Also, when you replace the fluid its a good idea too work the new fluid into the clutch plates by doing tight figure 8's while listioning for chatter. If it chatters, then the LSD is being raped. But from what you said, yeah your fine. Pump the brakes then the other side should lock in. And a pinion seal is the seal for the pinion, remove the drive shaft,P-nut,flange and then the deflector, then walla the seal.

LSD's will make noise also if run with the wrong fluid. But yeah, most likly its a lsd. Look on the diff for a little orange sticker.

Yep, fish eyes and orange peel showup a whole lot better with a clear on top of them.