nismothunder

Measured from the recevier hitch.

Went too the gas station in it, I got my first ticket ever, for loud exhaust. Also got bitched at for it being too high (bumper to ground, mn is 28inchs) lack of fender flares, expired tabs, unreadable plates, lack of amber colared turn signals and lack of bumpers.

Do it, unless its a high pinion 60 front your talking maybe 2k in axles. Chevy never used a 60 rear though.

depends on the area, there 1500 in mine with 150k. While a 95 f150 crew is like 5k with 200,000 miles.

Removeable face plate? If it has a removeable face plate (I think factory cdplayers had them) you can try cleaning up the contacts.

Vacuum leak?

Pink? Like Pepto?

Maybe

You buy it, fix it or junk it. Thats the end of it right there. But thn again you maybe become a master-debater if the wifey doesnt like it. So make sure the wifey gets something out of the deal.

39.7miles on motor, 189k on body.

Yeah, when I had my vg I never had a problem with frams on it, not one. And the only problems I did have with them were on a 5.4 Mod motor in my F150. And it would happen within the last 1k of oil change intervile. Champion Labs used to make Supertech and AC-Delco Filters, which at one time made Wix's also. When I bought Supertechs they were rebadged Wix filters. They went from having real thick casings to ones that crushed like pop cans. I used to follow all this but I lost interest since I change my oil at 3k for dino and 5k for syn and even the cheapest filters will trap stuff for that long.

I filter my oil with 3 bounty etxra plush paper towels. Purlota Classics since I get them at wal-mart for less then a Fram by $.45 Motorcraft makes a BA filter and there like $.50 more then fram. I used Supertech ones when AC-Delco used to make them but now there cheaply made.

Sun roofs could be dealer opt'ed in any model truck. My XE has a Dealer installed Power Sunroof that looks a 1000 times better then the factory ones and it doesnt leak plus has the power to rip through ice build up. You could change the seats out for even factory leather ones.

Who cares, but hears a bite of info, for the price of a wd21 new in 95 a base model xe was like 25k at the end of the year. A full size v8 powered Silverado, F150 XLT or Dodge Ram Larame were all around 20k or less. These trucks were bought new by soccer moms and yuppies.

To me it has every sign a intakegasket failing, except that it cant be because it goes away when warm. Now it the timing belt did jump a tooth it will cause this, th clattering could even be valves hitting the pistons ever so slightly. But the first thing I would do is read the codes and check the fuel pressure regulator hose on the rear of the intake. Best of luck.

Blue lock-tight. Basically the 1.99 tube.

Yep, thats what I saw. So its basically a automatic four wheel drive like GM's auto track or is it like a 70-30 mix for pulling power. Yep, you wouldnt know the paint codes they had during those years.

Any ford or waggy dana 44 will work. Well any waggy 44 built after '81. Turbo charging is kinda rare and theres only one guy that did it on this site I believe. Its in this section I believe. A 3.4 swap would be more user friendly then a turbo since its N/A But that means a complete tear down. The search fuction is hit or miss so dont be affraid to ask. And if you need cup holders contact a guy on hear named Tungsten. He has a load of them. If you havent introduced your self yet please do so.

Looks normal too me. If you dropped your pan you should have seen the clutch pack shavings in it. Are you talking about that greenish spot on the left or the dirty/brownish fluid on the bottom? I dont know about r50s but I know a lot of car and atv dip sticks are maganatized to collect shavings so that maybe why its collecting more on the dip stick. Besides that I dont have a 100 percent answer for you.

Well thats nice. Did it turn rabid and turn on you?

Well tha t answers half of my Q, so there auto 4 is basiclly the same as GM's Auto track system?

I see your point and that it is valid but I have seen E85 powered car pre ignite because of hot spots on the head/ plug. Some of these car were turbos and high comprression but far from all of them did. Keep going with this, because I'm following it and would like too know your final out come.

No joke, aside from one being All-wheel drive and higher end are there any diffrences. Also, does anyone know that ugly ass green metalic paint code that some of these have?