nismothunder

Best use of a factory spoiler I've ever seen. Correct me if I'm wrong but thoses are T100 or base model tacoma wheels.

Just wanted to add that I meant to fill the cracks after riveting the sheet in. Some reason a sentance got left from my post.

I like that tube bumper. Get a 20 dollar Cherrybomb turbo/ glass pack. The new glass packs are diffrent from the old style that acutally has glass packing, these ones have baffles. I did nothing to it, and I am content. I thought of playing monster truck but I didnt want to go and charge its battory up or even hook it up.

Great stuff is a do it all product. It drys to a very hard none absorbit finish. Although it exspanes rather large (from my usage, sealing a crack in a garage wall) I see it almost daily used on rusted out rocker panels. Its very flamable though when wet. Pop riveting is fine, welding is better. If it was me I would just cut the old stuff out (not really even needed) and the hit it with the foam to fill any cracks (both sides) and then under coat it. On both sides Any piece of metal will last. You dont need galvanized or cladded sheet. If you are welding I acutally advise agaisnt any cladded metal.

It should work, but I'm not a expert on hb233 rear axles. But I think there is a diffrence in the axle housing it self for open and lsd rears, although I will say I might be thinking of something completly diffrent. I know theres a diffrence becuase you need to modfy a LSD rear to fit a locker in it. The back lash and everything should be in the TSM on this site. Its free but you need to down load it.

Its fine, I ran super tech gl5 in my rear with no problems what so ever for 30k+

Dont tell a 6.0 powerstroke or 6.7 cummins owner that!

And check your frame for rust, it maybe not worth it to you to since a bunch of money into a truck with a junk frame (or you could back half it)

The truck should run for another 20 years unless it rots out. Although, I do believe it would be another five years at least before you start getting problems from old age (genrally battory cables, window motors, etc.) I can understand your point in thinking a newer truck would have less problems due to its age.

Is your pathfinder currently a 4x2? If not I would at least keep the front cv's conected to the hubs. Are you looking to lift it at all or to lower it? Are you gonna run it at the track or is it just gonna be a streeter? With what you want to do you can run any tranny/ engine combo you want in it. On skinnys it should go through snow no problem, if your running 12.5s you'll wish for 4wd.

I've never done it but people say that they get 3.3 range power (about 190) with headers, a COI and jim wold no. 2 cams with the jim wolf ecu.

Yes, you need a bearing puller to do the rear bearings. And you need to force them back in. With rear disks its not that bad, you pull the shaft, diff and axle shafts when you do it. You will also need to get new axle seals (somethings call wheel seals) It should be a 1 day job if you have all the right parts and tools.

A come-along and some straps plus a tire repair kit and I would be hitting the trails. A better jack then the stock one as well. Check the ball joints and TRE's for any play. A Hooahh center link could be another up grade since the stock ones seem to be the weak-link. Although I never had any problem with mine. If you dont drive like a dork you should be fine.

Dial up connection. Hell I used to be able to up load to facebook but since they "updated" its been a no go. I dont have one of those smart phones ethier. Photobucket never worked for me. When i get a better connection I'll be sure to post them to please you guys. Well, actually just to please Kingman since he has such a pretty face.

I helped a guy pull the split shaft on his 85 yota. He beat on it in front wheel drive. Now I dont think you can use that to get a pathfinder home with out at least plugging the rear of the tranny. I maybe wrong though) Or Bronco unless it had a 2 piece shaft. I got hung up in a rut and let the engine idle for roughly 45-minutes to 1.5 hours and my atf boiled (although there are those that say it wasnt boiling) Not a horror story but I almost ripped my bumper off twice, once while climbing a hill and another time when I backed up perfectly with a birch tree. But I got a 1/4" thick chunk of angle Iron for a bumper know so its not a problem anymore. My frame broke (the first time) going over rail road tracks at 10 miles an hour. It broke the second time hitting a jump. I bent the frame on 94 S10 Jimmy driving over a a fallen oak tree, I ended up dragging it for 100 feet. Popped one of the S10s tires 5 minutes later on a little twig (backed into,instant flat) I ran into a tree at 25mph (well brush) on Polaris 400L 2 stroke atv when I was 12ish with 2 other people on the wheeler (I wasnt acutally drive, the guy on the front rack was) The one I dont like telling the most is when the throttle stuck on my 86 c-vic in reverse and I ran into a light pole in my driveway. my backs still messed up from that one.

Chevy front 44 or 60. I used a 10bolt (I had it already) and I'm on 35s and I havent had any problems. Using a th350 is a great way to make a pathfinder a mega pig on the street. I hate mine just cause it it sucks gas and screams at 60mph. I have a 305 and it has more then enough power to turn 35x12.5 tires although mine does have the stock 4.62 gears. you will have to make custom motor mounts to fit the motor with a hood. You will have to run a E-fan since theres no way a stock GM will ever fit in a 21's engine bay. Now with all this said, was it worth it? Hell yes, I'd do it again. Mine barks the tires shifting into second and has awsome power compaired to the stock tired vg. If you do it though your building a trail only truck.

You could scrap it for roughly 400 bucks, if it has good tires and wheels on it you could save those and put them on C-list (they fit 6 lug chevy remember) It could be sold as is for roughly 600ish. Although you will get calls from scrapper offering 275-300. You could try parting it out but it takes a while to do this. If you can find a new motor you could do the swap in a weekend and sell it for more. But then it maybe a while for it to sell.

Its a three-ton monster, econo-box stomper "Damn, they all look like Tyson"

You can run TTB Ford truck front coils for more lift then the Jeep ones. They are stiffer then the jeeps though. Mr.Jim the founder of this forum has/had bronco Coils in the rear. They maybe easyer/cheaper to find then the V8 JGC coils. complete kits havent been made for these trucks in years.

Buying a used motor is the cheapest thing. yeah you'll have to go through it and replace the belts and such but then it'll goe another 200k. As far as 500k vg30's. Never ever seen them. Everyone that has a high milage(350-500k) one has had there motor replaced or rebuilt. Now a 300k, yes that is pretty common with these motors.

Replace the canistor only. Whats the point of taking the time to replace the one in the tank with out replacing the fuel pump. There is a hatch in the rear to access the fuel pump under the carpet in the cargo area. And I once saw a Ford Escort idle for 5 minutes with the pump fuse pulled.