nismothunder

Or simply greasing the bushings. Altough mine never rattled until I greased it. And I don't hear it anymore.

Mines on back. The only time a tires ever inside is if its flat.

For a moment I was like what the hell, I've never had euro cams.

+ 1 for that lucas product

Your all wrong on the second button. That's a factory installed penis extender.

I've never seen a electric trip odo in any 21. But I suspect that the connections are simply worn. 225-250 miles a tank is horrible btw.

I'm down with seeing that. I may acutally follow this since I like where its going. That rust wasn't that bad. Very much fixable. Well back too my corner now.

Never had a problem using a 1/2" rachet. I don't remember using a extension on it. Just holding it on with one foot and kicking with the other always broke them loose.

And yes, as many coats as it takes too get too the rest of the paint.

From the looks, no you do not need too fill it. Priming is the best bet. And yes you can get paint pens with primer. If its bare metal then yes theres a chance of rust with out primer. If not then no, its not going too rust since the factory primer is still sealing it.

1. BFG A/T KO 2. Genral Grabber A/T 3. Goodyear Silent Armer / AT/S 4. Firestone Destanation A/T 5. Goodyear Autority A/T 6. RoadRunner ATP Those are my choices. I drive a 1 ton with the Michelin's and I cant stand them in the snow. The truck weighs 8k and I find that they dig too much. Another tire too avoid is the General A/P. There an all season street thread and provide no traction what so ever.

Weld it up with 1/8 ". Who cares what finished product looks like as long as it works. Its not like its a highly visable area. I swear responed too this years ago but my posts seem too be gone. -Sal

I like Dupont products as far as paint. As far as removing marks I use 3m rubbing compound too get the wax off and smooth the clear. Now you will need too re wax the car but I've had great luck with it. But that's only if its not too the color/base coat. If its that deep its Dupont rattle can and clear coat with a few coats of wax too blend it. As far as it matching, I find that any over spray is more likely too be seen then the repair. If your paints faded to much for the factory shade too match hit the new stuff with polish too lighten it.

TBI or TPI? 92's never came with 350s and 5 speeds. Sounds like its a truck TBI 350. Nothing wrong with that, plenty of power for a small truck like this. Check the casting numbers on the tranny. I'm guessing its a t5 or the like but that generation F-body had 2 separate trannys, one for the v6 and one for the v8 (same bolt pattern) but the v6 had a super low 1st gear and a big leap between 2nd and 3rd (I believe). Any GM front axle will work, a dana 44 is best but a 10 bolt will survive a while. As far as gearing check what you have stock, it should be ethier 4.37 or 4.63. The way you tell is by checking the fender tag on the passage side fender for a HG43 or HG46. You will need too regear the front axle too meet the needs of the rear unless you swap both out from the same donor. The rear axle is plenty strong for just about any need a pathfinder owner should have. Unless you have massive tires and lots of jumping then I would look for a 6 lug 14 bolt. Now the 14 bolt is bullet proof but very heavy and fat. Leaf springs, you can run after market ones or ones from the junk yard.

Tune up time. Slowly slowing down when your stuck? You mean the whole engine is slowing down or just the wheels?

You mean the 4.6 triton or 325/ 5.3 vortec?

Any GM 6 lug front axle will work. Check too make sure what 5 speed you have. What year Camaro did the 350 come out of?