nismothunder

Sounds like a Forks bent. As how it got bent sitting still I have no idea. I have no idea about nissan 5 speeds but on older toyotas I notice that they get very sloppy from non greased factory bushings for the linkage (side loaders)

Pulled it out of the barn too make the engine swap in another truck less wet and cold. Said piss on it when it started raining again (no rain all summer, hell it was snowing today at one point) It is currently sitting out side and mother nature is removing the 2 months of hay dust build up.

They get a ridge because they were designed in the 1950s. I acutally like motors that get ridges because it gives you a genral idea of how many miles are on a short block and pulling heads is a 2 hour job. You dont need a v8 too wheel, thats the honest truth but it sure is funner with a 8 then with a 4 cylinder. Carb vs efi is a fight that no one can win, Efi does seem like its better but it doesnt always like being dunked like carbs do. I do 300 foot hill climbs with my carb and it likes it. Tungsten has it, the sbc is king in aftermarket parts.

The CVPI are crap... well at least the panter chassie is, the 79-91 is were its at for a road lumbering whale that will survive being driven through cinder block walls. They even came in a 2 door version. Maruader's are cool though. But dreadfully slow...

Every muffler ever made is legal. If it says something about glasspacks not being spark arrest mufflers completly disregard that since they are talking about bikes and atvs because there pipe is so short and they dont have cats. Warlocks are made so you can have a quite muffler and loud one at the same time. Theres a baffle built right into then so you can run open pipe when you want or have it exit through the tail pipe.

I keep cheap stuff in my Kennedy roller, stuff has a habit of walking off when I'm not looking. Funny thing is I went from not locking it too making sure I lock it. But I do maintance on lasers and stuff. My truck tool box has a basic 3/8 socket set, a a 12 piece wrench set (stanley brand) mix and match spark plug sockets. A 1/2 wrench, a large channel lock and grease zerks. Plus a dead blow and I think EZ-outs. I always have a 4 way with me. If its a Heavy truck or machinary aprentice ship I say get a set of sockets that range from 1" too 4 1/2". You'll use them often. My indeapth automotive tools are all of my dads or my gand farthers, ranging from a presure checker too old tourqe wrenchs (with a needle and dial, lol). I'm not really sure whats all there but its a small machine shops worth. Since your doing a apprentiship I dont know, I know if you went too tech school you would leave with all the tools you need and you would have a heavy discount on them.

Coasta Rica... Got any junk yards close by.

Pathfinder = Large? I want too know what your on C, cause I'd sure love some. Hell my 86 c-vic went great in snow, far better then most fwds and the vic was larger then a pathfinder. I even drove it on glare ice a few times and besides a little spinning at a full stop (I mean very little) it would handle fine. I watched people in 4 wheel drive go in the ditch when the whale just kept on a rumbling. But the vic did have another advantage over fwd cars, it was big, grey, dented, ugly and loud. Hell kids ran from it. And it got 21 mpg (winter was 16-17) It maybe close too 50-50 on the 21 but the rears do get light when in snow, even in 4wd.

Answered your own qustion didnt ya? Too far... but I agree with the second part.Yeah they dont make a 13" mud, you shoulda stepped up too some 14's. Your coulda got some TSL's. I rode in a topaz that topped at 75. Was the worst ride I ever was on, lol. You go around a gentle turn and the damn thing would slid into the other lane cause the tires couldnt stick at that speed Ok guys, I got the rope... whos got a tree? They have the same build quility as a Miata but for 50k more... Loud on the inside from crappy window sealing and the transmission is clunky shifting. But it does have the super car look too it. Yes I've driven a few ( a 80s 4 cylinder and a 99 v8), I must say I prefer the Maserati Quattroporte too them. Although I do prefer larger 4 door cars. Want gas milage get a geo, I mean really its a 20 year old rice burning truck with deep gears and tiny tires, with no power below 3k, what do think its gonna get. But, the newer awd's get great gas milage. I cant say enough about the Ford Escape, I mean they get near 30mpg and they go in snow better then most wd21s. My vote for winter car is something with a Wankel triangle in it.

Looking at the second image it looks like two diffrent measurements, gotta ad another 5-6 inchs too that height for a carb and filter. I'll measure my impalas 283 later too get the real numbers. I think I measured rear deck too the fan is were I got my numbers (its been a while)

If the joints come with the straight Zerks replace the Zerks with 45 degree Zerks, it makes servicing the joints much quicker. Any replaceable u-joint that has grease fittings needs too be greased at every oil change. As far as Duralast u-joints there fine, I have 20k on 1 at this moment and I've greased it once and never have noticed any problems. If your truck saw high tourqe loads (towing, drag racing, rock bumping) on the shaft I would get a higher grade one but for any dd its fine.

A 80s blazer would be perfect. Just saying. A lot of local mud trucks run mini truck cabs on full size frames. I wouldnt use a IFS frame unless I was gojng too SAS it later. A old style cherokee could fit better but whens the last time you've seen one in the rust belt? Ahardbody, yes if he tryed too keep the engine in a stock location he would have too cut the fire wall. a stock dressed sbc with no fly wheel or fan is like 32 inchs long and and the engine bay on a 21 is like 34". In most cases you have too cut the hood so a air filter will fit as well.

Cherry bombs have baffles... I've never noticed glass burn out. If you want noise get a flowmaster 10 series or the real Bullet muffler.

Ford ran 3.50 in front and 3.55 in the rear axles for years and they never had any problems. Toyotas should have a 4.30 gear ratio stock and I dont see any problems running that off road. I dont even think there would be any binding on road with that ratio. If you wanted too run something like 3.73s in front and 4.56s in back then yeah there would be binding on road. Off road in soft terrain you would simply notice the front wheels spining faster then the rears.

1 more http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/toyota-differential-identification-18588.html

I'm not toyota expert but these links might be helpful. But they are for north america based trucks so it might be diffrent. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/ http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AxleTech/index.shtml H233 vs c200 http://forums.nicoclub.com/all-you-needed-to-know-about-nissan-axles-through-2004-t233955.html

yeah you can swap the JGC stuff over if you wanted a worse front axle. The JGC (ZJ version, not FSJ) have aluminum housing dana 30 front axles. Since you want a sbc you could get a 80s part truck and do like I did and swap over. Its nice having a complete parts vehical that you could get a tranny, t-case and engine from instead of piceing it togeather. As far as the t-case adapter I dont know. Do some measuring and then decide. Theres plenty of room in the bay for a sb ford or chevy but you need too use it. Some people have trouble with the gm dizzy fitting but thats in 4x2 trucks from what I under stand.

Got Patrols in your area? How about Hilux's? Those would be your best bet. If your looking for big tires I think stepping up too a h233 rear is a good choice. The c200 I think is a 4 cylinder 4x2 axle. Oh yeah, dont get any Jeep GC axles, there bastard dana 30s with aluminum housings. That turbo diesel xj looks like a dana 30 as well. Not sure of any other options.

Wal-mart EverStart brand. I have 1 battory for my boat, pathfinder and impala. Its a deepcycle Everstart. I'll get the specs on it later. Before that the boat had twin napa's that died after a year. The pathfinder had a green and white one. I think it was a AllState and it lasted until late 2010. It was punched for like 05. Could of been a Diehard. 650 max with a cold crank amp of 500. Its a little tike. never had a problem with it though. Going on 3 years old.

You looking too keep the IFS? Where did you find engine mounts? Are the mounts for 2wd aplications or 4wd ones? I suspect the front diff will be in the way for the sbc's pan.

If you had a straight pipe and no lift it would have too exit below the rear axle. If it was a lifted truck you might be able too run it above but I believe the driver side spring would be in the way (straight back from the muffler) But as Adamzan has said any exhaust shop can bend you a new tail pipe. You can have it exit below the bumper in the rear but it wont do anything other then drone a little more at speed (90's dont drone as much strangly)

This is a good Q, since it makes me think. I believe that the front rotors are acutally a Hub mount system (IE the hub,rotor and bearings are 1 sealed unit) If you need rotors and it is indeed a hub centric system then you simply need too buy new hubs. If not, no you do not need too buy new front bearings unless you are having a problem. You could check them for wear and repack them with new grease (of your choice as long as its EP 2) As far as the rear drums. Nope, nothing majorly hard. You could check for any seapage from the axle seals and even replace them as preventive maintance (not hard, it seems like a big job when you first do it) It you dont have the little pipe spring compressure tool I would advise getting one. It makes the job 1000 times easier then trying to remove/replace the springs on the rear with pliers

Air intake and then exhaust. If yours is a 2000 I suspect a body lift will be hard too find.