nismothunder

Cause poor people drive 2 doors.

Nope, what they dont filter is too small to harm the motor, plus that is why you have that thing called a oil filter. Now if it is something like one of those F1 motors that dont use piston rings and run at 22,000rpm it might be diffrent. But I believe most of those run a similer filter. Thinking of it, I dont believe those big nitro methane snorting 4 second drag cars even run a air filter. But they are literally rebuilt after ever race. Well tore down and inspected at least.

I hose and soap if off, let it dry, spray what I think is right amount of oil on (until it looks like new) and then reinstall. I've never, ever had a problem with it. Now I only spray the outer edge and not both. But I highly dought oil on the mass is bad for it. Considering that this tale has been going on for years and theres no facts to back it up other then people complaining because there in that 90 percent that would die with out warning hazards placed every item.

Looks nice. Hope its good to you.

Every Fram air filter I've ever bought has been made in Canada. Most of there oil filters too now that I think of it. But I only buy K&N air filters now, I mean they never wear out and they have a 1,000,000 mile warenty agaisnt wear and defects.

Smog isnt every place...

Vortec 350 huh. Maybe I'll have to put some TPI heads on mine to keep up. In other news I didnt do anything to it lately but Kyles been bugging me so I thought I'd share what I've been doing. Torn between finding black carpet or bedlining the inside (think black/dark grey instead of the darkgrey/light grey it is now). Plus I'm not sure if I should get a second bucket for the front only or if I should have rear ones as well. But for that I may have to cut the cage to install it. I want diffrent tires, the claws have been a let down big time compaired to past M/T's I've had. Plus the time to acutally finish it wouldnt hurt since I start school monday.

Good Luck.

The best bet to check for bad a u-joint is blocking the wheels and leaving it in neutral. That way you get the real story to if you need U-joints. Since shutting it off and leaving it in gear can load the shaft and make the U-joints seem fine. You dont even to block if your on a level piece of ground because the joints will show slop before you will move the car.

Or just about anything fuel related. It could be the pressure regulator or the pump dieing.

Drain the fluid and see if theres any metal/clutch shavings in it. Its rare for problems but the LSD is weaker then open diffs.

How hard can I pet it before the head pops off?

Hell with chrome, I wouldnt mind getting that blond home.

Ignition moduel? On my camaro thats a common problem but I dont remember if the fuel pump would kick on. I do know the windows would still work. Not really a Jeep fan so I'm not any real help. Does it Click or does it do nothing at all. Come to think of it my old Crown Vic had the same problem as you discribe but it was a wire leading to the ignition moduel. I know that ones pumps never turned on. Just for laughs try to jump it if you can with a screw driver.

There have been people who've done it for $400... But there found a junk yard doner and pulled everything themselves. I figured you could use a little something...

Cable coming loose? Even if the alty locked up it should still run off the battory with out interupting the radio. It could be that the 2 things arent related but happen at the same time.