nismothunder

Buy the wally world green stuff for 8 bucks a gallon un-mixed. If you need too run water wetter you need a new truck. Or move out ofsouth america.

^ what they said. Its a short. Having a good ground doesnt really matter, a bad one will just make the lights flicker (like if you ground it through the ball or safty chains they will flicker)

Yes, you would also want too check the deck and the trueness of the heads since half the time there warped. And since your doing the head gasket it would be a good time too replace the timing belt, cam seals, water pump and probly have the heads rebuilt.

Answered it with your own question. Its on wikipedia, 99 percent of the time it maybe right and the other 1% is incoherit babble.

Buy a manuel if you wanna do the head gaskets. The 4.3 swap isnt as hard as everyone is saying, but its geared more towards the hardcore crowd then the DD I need a/c people. Plus the parts for them are cheap and there very easy to work on compaired to vg's. The 4.3 is still made and placed in full size trucks and vans, as it has been since 1985. Plus boats and heavy equipment. But the head gasket is still simpler then the complete engine and tranny swap that the 4.3 would require. The manuel covers it completly but dont be afraid to ask if you have a question.

If you get the complete ecu from a yard with the engine then yeah, the engine/tranny will run perfect. Now the factory BS wont with out putting time into it.

From your first post it sounds like it was hydrolocked, how can a piston freeze weld too the block from that?

Ethylene glycol (green antifreeze) kills the oils calcium which controls the formation of sulfuric acid, hydrochlorc acid, and phosphoric acid, which if left unnoticed may cause engine damage. Never changing your oil also will cause this, because the calcium becomes depleated. But cavitation will happen long before acid formation. As far as a newly "rebuilt" engine knocking because the old anti-freeze was still in, that should be taken with a grain of salt. If the engine was truly rebuilt how come there is still anti-freeze in it? I mean cracking the heads and flipping it on a stand will drain it. As would Hot tanking it too get the junk off. The most likly cause of a knock after a rebuild its because of installing the bearing wrong/with out lube or not lubing the oil pump.

Missed that. You can cut it out and weld or fill the rocker with foam sealer then bondo over the hole. Both ways have been done by members. If you weld it, do not try too run a Bead- simply tack it then grind smooth.

Loose belt?

Fluids Engine Oil - Current motor- pennzoil 10-w30, new motor was broke in on Delo 400 le Coolant - Prestone mixed 50-50 ATF - Old- Dex V, New B&M trick shift MTF - Brake Fluid - Supertech DOT3 Power Steering Fluid - Prestone Front Diff - 75-90 Rear Diff - 90-140 supertech Transfer Case - Dex V [*]Filters Oil Filter - Fram then supertech,- new motor WIX Air Filter - Fram then K&N drop in- new motor K&N black top In-Cabin Air Filter - Factory installed Fuel Filter - Factory installed ATF Filter - $29 one. [*]Change intervals Fluids Engine Oil - Old one-Every 2-3k New one - Once before dyno run. Coolant - Every 2 years ATF - Every 30k MTF - Brake Fluid - When they die Power Steering Fluid - Never Front Diff - Every 100k Rear Diff - Every 50k, with syn every 100k Transfer Case - Every 100k [*]Filters Oil Filter - Every change Air Filter - When torn/ cant clean with air hose. In-Cabin Air Filter - Never, Dont think it has one. Fuel Filter - As needed ATF Filter - Every fluid change. Grease Lucas red N tacky or Traveler truck and tractor.

If it starved the engine of oil, which I dought its time for a complete rebuild/replacement. If it just sucked antifreeze into the chambers and it leaked into the pan a head gasket will do you.

Are pics loading or didnt you fix the rocker panel rust?

1. Yes 2. your gonna have too fab it. 3. Not that I know of. Its gonna ride stiffer, not like its down on the bump stops but harsher then 1 shock. Why do you want duel shocks in front?

Anyway you go you will have too run a stand alone engine system and e-fans, the sbc isnt as wide as a vg but it sure as hell is a lot longer. 4.3 is a decent engine and is shorter then a sbc, but your not gonna make the same power. New hemis, what about them? They go 300k and make decent power . No buddys ever done a hemi wd plat form swap.

Oh christ. To the OP, didnt read your whole first post, but whats with the little cubby on the rear, just a random little cubby or is it a ash tray. Or am I seeing it wrong and its just an opening too the big empty space under the consal?

You need a driver side drop 44, 1980 so and before where passager side drops. (Same as chevy and IHC) If my memory serves correct there are two diffrent widths, a 60.5 inch and ethier a 61.5 or 65.5(wide track) If it has a valve its probly a Qudra-track model. As far as just swapping on manuel hubs, I have no idea.

There rare cause they rotted sitting on the show room floor. To the OP, nice truck, its probly a scout 44 in front as well. Dont do anything too the 345. When you say late 60s scout you mean a scout 80?

Wheres the ashtray?

The front drive shaft will has a zerk too grease. If there factory parts theres rally nothing too grease on these trucks, besides the front drive shaft.

Ah, I was just on that site last night. Great minds think alike. I'm sure its great for when your rolling joints down by the river and such.

Hey, I just bought a Nissan Rodeo. What lift do you reconmend?

Yawn

The camen are already circling. As too the op, its entirly your choice, dont let others try and push you towards fixing if thats not what you want. Best of luck.