nismothunder

Oh... I'm sorry for you.

Theres no need to say if the cage is nearly done or not, the fact is there are premade cages out there that bolt too the floor board of car/trucks. Theres also the whole roll bar thing that are for show. But the funny thing is, look at 69-75 chevy blazers, they had a roll bar over the rear that could be ordered with the truck, it didnt need to come with it, so the only thing protecting the driver was a topper(in some cases not even that) Ends rant.

+1 for dead caR50 pic.. Its not my style but jesus, theres a lot of pissing and moaning about what this guy did. Comes down too two simples things, Is this your truck that you(the people bs'ing) own and or paid for? No? So whats the point of saying anything other then too prove how big a dick you are. And number two is this, If you dont like it dont say anything about it (I should take this advice often but I personaly dont) I've personally ridden in a geo metro with no top,windshield or anything. I've also owned a 59 cj5 with a factory roll bar and buick 6 popper(Ithink 59 I didnt have a title) Where they safe, hell no, did they drive down the road just fine,yep. Well thats my .02

*Yawn* who wants to get a cup full of piss? I mean awsome yellow necture, its good, I will ship... In other thoughts whats up with the sheet metal/maybe plywood door trim panels? I see the one in the back with a speaker in it. Is that one attached or just propped in place?

File fitting rings and back cuting the valve would also help the power in a milage build. As far as milage for me I got 13-14 winter and 17-19 summer with as high as 23 on long free way trips. Also, a deep oil pan will see better hp numbers, because it keeps the oil away from the crank(read that these arent splash lube engines, they have pumps)

Dont want to thread jack or anything but E10 and e15 fuels are 10 and 15 percent ethonol which doesnt have the lub propertys of regular gas, so theres claims of more wear in the cylinder heads and injectors then running regular gas. Adding 2 stroke oil to it adds that lube back into(marine sta-bil does the same thing but it costs more) it. The engine does seem smoother and mpg will raise on some engines. Bobistheoilguy has some very good info on this and I did a random write up on it a while ago.

440 wedge with a carb hat and turbo or a 440 with a street blower, full manuel vavle body 727(I prefer the th400) and nothing inside. The big block can be done, there is a guy that ran a 383 bb ina hard body.

Yeah, but you gotta think that most people that post stuff will post it in the section that say "Photos and videos of your pathfinder" instead of the repair section. Also theres a section just for pics and mods of members trucks. Not trying to be a dick about it but its been covered pretty well through out both of the said sections of the site. The link you posted was for photos of the members themselfs, not there rigs. Although some people may have thought its was for there rigs.

Running a higher then recondmended tire pressure will give a slight benifit in mpgs as will run 2 cycle oil in the gas if you can not run regular (those affect by the E10 horror)

Considering that theres maybe 20 of the same thread in the photo section what do you exspect?

This was broght back from the dead. I use supertech filters currently, there a rebadged ACDelco filter, which are the same as napa brand, bosch and five others that I forget(On Bobistheoilguy) I have nothing agaisnt fram, I'd use the cheap 4 dollar ones but I can get 2 supertechs for the same price. Acdelco are made by champion inc I believe. As far as oil, I used any 5w30 in the wd21(currently 10w-30-40?) Mine didnt like anything in the 5w-20 flavor. And the fact that the newist wd21 in the U.S. is 16 years old and probly has ran cheapO off brand oil for all of those years shouldnt in the least make you think that a syn oil is better. The only plus's that syn oil have over the current dino oil is the longer change interveils.

The o-rings sound right. I wouldnt worrie about the temp gauge until you've ruled out that the o-rings are not bad. Most of these trucks temp gauges do not move very much, mine was like that, the gauge would hardly move between cold and warm but it always put off heat.

I'd fix the cam seals quick or your timing belt is gonna snap.

Was that in the three blocks you drove too work? I shut the door on mine all the way, was bugging me that I didnt notice for 3 months.

Dont listion to the old reformed four wheeler whos ready to buy a Prius(read that-B from Kalistan), four wheeling does a Pathfinder good, it makes all the bushings wear evenly and gives you a reason to own a 4x4 mini van.

But the truck that trailered the caR50 home was a Dodge... But it is a very lovly R50 I will say that.

I woulda took the wheel weights off the outer edges and call it good.

I had the same problem with a door handle, its easy to fix and prevent it happening again. As the dude above said its not hard at all to replace door handles, I've done it and I dont do stuff like that, I usally just leave a window open. As you said your self, it has 257,678 miles on it. Its an old truck but it should run good for years too come. The water leaking is most likly the retarded hose that is on the intake, you cant remove it with out pulling the front end off, but at 257k the timing belt is in dire need of replacment along with the water pump. But it also has at least 2 teen drivers and is beaten pretty baldy, I'm not one too point fingures but most of the time girls are harder on stuff them boys. As far as over heating, I wouldnt be too worried about that, I've ran one with the same engine without any coolant(or very little) and it never caused any problems with the head gaskets or bearings.