nismothunder

Yep,kindman had a factory winch mount.You could get them up until at least 93.I would do a reciver style winch mount but thats my preference over the bumper style,since they cost less and are removeable.

Did you properly oil the lifters and prime the oil pump when assembleing the engine?Did you use a oil with a high amount of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate(zddp) in it?These could be your problems and not the oil it self.

Tye Shall not dirty tye neighbors oil and tye shall change tyes oil every 3,000 or 3 months.Tye lord reconmend Quaker State 5w-30 as well...Thats in the bible verse for verse... I run Quaker State and MotorCraft semi sin...5w-30 and 5w20,never had any problem other then when using the 20weight it'll use a quirt ever 1500-2000miles,5.4 triton. Also,not trying to jack this or anything but Bobistheoilguy.com has a lot of data on this subject. I use Quaker State because I like the green bottle my beater c-vic got Quaker state high milage with slick 50(red bottle with chevelle on label) The only additive I add is MMO because it keeps the engine clean.Its Seafoam but isnt as Solvent so you can add it at a fresh oil change and change your oil at 2,ooo miles.

I maybe wrong butusally a smaller tire will read a better mpg,because it is moving more then a larger tire,more rotations per mile= higher mpg...bigger tires= lower rotations per mile= lower mpg.

Only one would spin I believe,even open diffs,when your moving them by hand will both spin,but in opersite directions.

I think cv or hub issue but thats just me or you could of not pulled the lever back far enough on the t-case. But I dont know for sure with out having you pull the front diff drain,it could be completly gone in side. The reason behind why I think its a cv or hub issue is this,these trucks,all or them are open front ends.So if a hub or cv is not engaging you will have no power to the front end at all.Which is caused by the power taking the path of least resistence,the side thats not engaging.So,not trying to be a dick or anything about it but you could have installed a hub wrong.

Yes,but what if there poping out when power is applied to them?He stated in neutral turning by hand everything moved.

Wait?Manuel or auto hubs?Could it be that the hubs,if auto are not ingaging?

I'm not a expect on diffs or anything but why not pull the drain on the front and look inside?

It works for a while,I tryed it in my oil sucking saturn before replacing the head.Get a 8 cylinder can and dump it in.It'll raise compression a little,although it should be known that this product catains lead in it. Sounds like valve guides to me,but very worn ones,you may have even sunk a vavle in your engine which would explane the contanst tick that you destribbed.

The center hole is what is screwed on.Is that what your talking about?

You got him all confused know GG...Growlin',clunking? Whats the diffrence. Could it be possible that one or your hubs or cv is looked in? If its a wheel bearing,its easy to check.Jack that side of the truck up and pushed and pull the tire toward the engine.Its shouldnt move,if it moves then a bearing is gong.

Delo 15-40...

Looks like one of those egg sacks from Aliens...If that thing is what crawled out of it I'd rather deal with the facehugger things...Now thats out of the way I have open exhaust before the cat and I have to poop a lot,are those things related?

Get a cowl induction hood.I also see a 70 'bu or velle in the back ground.Wasnt that one guy who posted a vid of him self racing around a suburb from nm?Said he had a turbo one and was SC'ing the other? Thats the same blower thats on the fronty and X right?

the cheapys and supertech brake fluid,anything more for a 15 year old truck is flattory.

lsd is fine,but its no replacement for ground clearance.It wouldnt matter if you had 454 with lockers frnt and back if your sitting on your frame. Ground clearance=better perfermance.

Mine didnt rattle until I greased it.But I also found that if you grease the hell outa it it'll stop for a month or too.

Mines just a xe with the sport package,ac and sun roof,to get the sport package you needed to order a/c,thats all.The sport package(two levels) on mine is the fender flares,rear tire carrier and fog lights.Plus a moon roof and rear tint.Other then that its just a regular pathy that had stock pizza cutters.At some point the sport shocks where added(a level 2 option) But this data isnt really helpful anymore,considering the newist wd21 out there is 15 years old and who knowns what the owners have done to it.Do as B said and find one thats in the nicest shape and buy it,you will save big time over buying a late model or new truck.And if it doesnt have what you want in it then you use the money you saved to make it what you want.

Beast Path did one a while back,I think its stickyed.

Dont listion to this gooned out mf-er,unsnap your air filter box and hit the deep puddles...Dont forget to post your truck up here for cheap after words.

Same axle?Will fit if both are 31 splines?

Ah,the blue junk with lead in it...

Delo...nuff said.