nismothunder

Well,you all got it,but try dumping a bottle of STP oil treatment in it,it'll stay up in the heads when the engine is off.Mine had some clakky-clak and stp did wonders for it.A bottle of Bars stopleak will do the same thing,but its thiner. It your already using an oil weight like 15-40 or something then go to a 5w-30 to see if it helps.If the oils too thick it wont flow fast enuff to the heads.

Whats up with it,More info is needed other wish its like shooting in the dark,you bound to get it after a lot of trys...

Searching would help since it,but I'll give you a idea. Dana 44 from a full size jeep. Front leafs,NO BLOCKS,Full spring pack. Front drive shaft. Regeared diffs, Low range tranfercase gears, Rear lift coils. The rear axle is strong anuff to live happly with 37 inch tall tires,after that a dana 60/14 bolt/crysler 9 1/4 would be better suited.

They dont always have every thing,at first glance of that though I thought it looked like the 4 banger exhaust in the chiltens manuel,but you can just make out the cross over.

My 95 has a pre-cat,but I think theres a flange between them.I remeber that a while ago some other people had the same thing.

That'll sure hell on trips to the store.Without a dought your pathfinder is the most hardcore mailcrawler there is on this site.

Well lets look at it this way,it not that the tires are too tall,its that there too wide.If you have mud flaps/fender flairs then take them off,you will gain 3/4-1 inch of clearinse by just doing this. And while your side wall says 33 inch tall its really just 32 something.

Is it just me or does the bolt pattern look diffrent then 6 on 5.5...?

A new one,I dont think any of us are running carbs but to get a decent idea of the carb size you need... Cubic inchs X Max rpm / 3456= carb size Cfm(minmul size) So a 3.0 is 189 ci and the rev limiter comes on at 6500 ish. 189 X 6500 / 3456 = 355.46875 CFM.

I have a thrush or red hot(?) glass pack(round type,true glass pack,others are turbo style) on mine with true 2inch pipe from the manifolds back.Its like a 28 incher and is not loud at all.It idled very nice and had a very decent tone through out its rpm range.Its loud evuff to know the exhaust isnt stock but isnt headach causing.Theres sevral Youtube clips of the same glass pack on a hardbody(I think the guy has a cracked y-pipe though).So you could look them up.If you cant decide how loud you want it,there is a muffler that allows you to run open exhaust.Its called a WARLOCK.It will be near silent when you have it closed and and its open it shoots right out. These truck are loud when they have open exhaust though,you wouldnt think a lot of noise would come out of them,but it does.

If its anything thing like replacing wing windows,then your better off getting a new door complete,there a pain to put the new weather strip onto(if there like wing windows)

I agree with you for the most part,but glass packs on these trucks arent that loud unless there welded right to the manifolds with no tail pipes.Also,what if the vechical doesnt have a cat or cross over,that shoots holes in your thery.Not having a cat cuts down on the back pressure,raising the peak horse power and torqe rpms.So,with now cat and a suburban muffler you would be losing power at a usable rpm.

All they have,as he stated. A 2 incher with a glass pack would be the best,or a 2.25 with a stocker style. And when I say 2 inchs,I mean full exhaust,from the mainfolds back.

The 3.0 is a great engine that lasts a long time.A few members on hear have 300k on them before they rebuilt them.A simple bottle brush hone and new rings will work great toward renewing performance if the cylinders arent groove at the top or pitted.So while its not going to be a rocket after being rebuilt it is still a good engine that has the abilty to move decent when set up properly.

Custom body parts are limited to bumpers and fiber glass fenders and hood.If it was me I'd look at just a hood because the fenders dont hold onto the rad like the stock ones do.Rihno line the under side of the fiber glass,it makes it much more ridged and you wont get as much flex in it at high way speeds.

ZTune up,Intake(CAI) headers,and 2.25 exhausht with a 2.25 glass pack at the stock local.It'll sound great with a lot of burbling when you let of the gas and cost.Change the rear gears to 4.3 if there not already,that'll help keep the rpm down as well and going to a size bigger tire. The chevy muffler would be a good idea,but I think its just to big,there what 2.75 or 3 inchs,way to much for even a built 3.0,it would kill the torqe.And there big,there a good 30 inchs long and heavy.A good glasspack is still cheaper and would probly last longer since its not as big.But if glass packs are illegal in your state then you should look at a decent turbo style muffler,like a thrush or cherrybomb.

What did the oily mixture look like?could be intake gasket.

It usally went down for me,change the fluid on the pump(suck it out with a baster and refill) It should be clear or a redish colar,any other and its worn out.Also,change your brake fluid the same way,just dont empty it so you have to bleed them.

Get a 94-95 model...you'll like it,newer style dash and stuff,t-belt have 105k change interviles.There dependable,I drove mine 60-80 miles a day for 30k and never had a problem from the engine/tranny(other then maintance)

Ok,the stock 305 chevy with a fan on front is 33 inchs long from rear of block to front of fan.Engine compartment is 30 inchs fron fire wall to core support...hmm

Yeah,I agree with the steel part,but if was just a little bit of rust around the rear wheels,I sanded it and found old bondo hidden under it(was freshly painted when I got it).I used some 1/10 stock for the rear rocker rust out and went over it with fiber glass cloth and a coat of bondo,still needs to be sanded.I have so far finished painting the p-side rear q-panel and hit the bottem 3-4 inchs of it with under-coating to kinda prevent nicks and scratchs in the new paint(flat black,not from a can)I still need to finish it but the front fenders are roting out around 2 inchs of bondo,I did hit with a sander and smoothed it out,should look good once I start with the filler putty.

Thanks for the help,it has really made things go faster.I'm half way done with the p-side,I stopped painting at the q-panel last night.It should be done today or tommarrow if theres no ran.

Bare sanded metal,cleaning old bondo and rust duct off of it...