nismothunder

Hell,fill it up with some nitro and see what it does,you'll have a hell of a time for aboot 30 miles(or until the head gasket/rings give out)

I'm flashed like that once,and the check engine light came on and it ran like crap(like 3-4 of 6 cylinders where hitting) I dought you have a problem but I'd drop the pan to make sure(my tranny burnt up and I never got a light)

I say buy low milage unit and replace them with that,I dought the evil smog empire will let you change it too diesel.

Hey,my bumper has that...looks sparkly black though...

I wouldnt use dot 4 if its says use dot 3,I'd use what the manuel recamends.But thats just me...Isnt dot5 for bikes?

A more agressive grind makes the torqe band come on in higher rpms,thats why people get so called RV cams because they make the power lower(idle up)Its really depend on how you plan to run the engine,it may only see strip use then you may wont one that makes the power high up so you dont kill the tires leaving,if its a off road 4x4 you want it low so you dont have to punch it all the time.

I think thats from people abusing them and cheap ass retreads coming from mexico...one of the ladys i sell hay too has retreads on her little dakota(I think there pumas) and there bald and she still uses them.My uncle has old retreads on his f250 but there split rims so the carcuss is a bit tuffer...

Taking pics of while taking stuff apart helps alot(I draw how they gotogeather but that just me)

The Puma looks badass(I like tires like those,very wide and very big,like a dune runner or sumthangz.)

Thats what it is,tread right uses the old forms from out of date tires,they have the old style Goodyear M/t and Bfg A/t And the Axion(or what ever) is the old rugged trail tire.

Could save money if you had a engine puller(cherry picker).My dad and me took the body off my blue 65 chevy doing that.I bet that the cab weighed more then the pathys cab to.Are you going to leave it on that cradle(I advise not doing so because that wood will stress crack in a few days) or are you going to put it up on cinder blocks?(I advise this for ease of entry)

I've already posted but I gotta say... What ever suits your needs as long as its a wd21(framed)You got kids or carry more people then get a 4 door(preforabley a 94-95 for the vg30E that has 105 timing belt interviles)If you like flying solo then get a 2 door(less power with these though).Sure some can say 2 doors are better then 4 and others can say 4 is better then 2...but come on,isnt it all kinda childish,what are we,ford vs chevy guys.My trucks better then your truck(hehehehe) no its not duece bag,mines better(hahahaha).It really comes down to ones own preferance,not what other think. Oh,and buy the way...there are 3 doors and five doors...(the rear hatch can be used as a door in a pinch) 5 door pathys ftw.

Doesnt TC make hard core off road racing kits for IFS trucks?

Hows it flashing,aome flash once on starrt up.If its running fine and theres nothing wrong with the transmission(low fluid,metal in the pan.Then I'd chalk it up as a mystery code.

I thought small bottles where quirts(in fact I'm pretty sure)I emptyed the master cylinder on mine and refilled it and it took a quirt.So I'm guessing its a bit more.

Could just be that the wd21 was deemed to be fazed out at a surtent date but they had keep building them because the car50 wasnt ready to go into production after that date(like the 70 camaro,they didnt come out until the summer of 70 so some people call them 70.5s)

The sputtering could be the rotor...

Clutch no disconecting all the way?

Nunya right...fiber glass fenders are ok but you have to leave the iner fender on...

Cheap engine flush...

Your engine does need back pressure,any engine that isnt making at least 500hp needs back pressure so it makes better torqe(whick you'll need.)

Easy way to get the metal out is you take a straw,stick it in your nose and inhale...

JB Weld works wonders on hard fuel lines...