nismothunder

I ran mobile 5000 in my pathy from the second oil change on becasue it was the cheapest name brand I found at the time(2.20 a quirt plus a 10percent discount) Its usally black around 3k... Amsoil is worth trying to explane to people that you can believe it,but most people dont. And hydrlic oil is usally non detergent oil,going from a sin oil back to a none detergent oil will cause that snot build up...

Thats cuzz there gangsta'...

I had just the stock replacement cloth mats in mine,they have the ppoky things on the bottom so they dont move and the have held up really well...

K must be a bruiser... Sorry to hear,anything around a joint hurts like hell when you break it,and it pisses you off because you cant use the joint right ever again...

I agree with jj big shoe,use that fiber glass mating stuff wait for it to harden(it takes a full 24 hours usally so this maybe a problem) and go over it with bondo filler,all in all you would be out maybe 30 bucks depending on the paint/bedliner you get...

I just thought hey your in the far white north did you let the truck warm up before taking it for a spin,most trannys are louder in winter when there cold?

It is indeed something to do with the transmission,if it growled with the clutch in I would say its a throw out bearing,but if it growls with the clutch out then its the tranny it self.I would check the fluid level in it to make sure it is at its proper level and if it isnt I would fill it up,since its cheaper to fill it up before buying it then buying it and finding out a seal is junk and it pee's tranny fluid all over stuff...It sounds like the truck wasnt maintained properly or a lot of people lerned how to drive stick with it. Old trannys(big truck ones)growl and stuff even after rebuilding(my t18 is a loud fooker and it has maybe 10k on a rebuilt)but I would exspect a low fluid level in that truck make it growl...

Admit it,you just want a new one...

Edicer I saw your truck a while back in minniamples...I was like hey I've seen that truck before... oh and my black plastic tube thing,its cracked and held on with electrical tape...I thought it was some sort of factory snorkle,when its removed there is a bit more woosing noise.

Sounds like a muffler,since its only loud when your on the gas,I would suspect a perfomance muffler or a small hole in the stock one,or rotten welds on the pipe leading in...try a little belt dressing on the belts to see if the noise goes away,if it doesnt its probly a bearing or something and not the belt it self.Wather stripping is hard to tell,I do not have a r50 so I dont know on that model.The striping on the windows is usally so-so but the stripping on the bottom of the doors is pretty easy.The one thing to do though is ask when the timing belt was last changed and if the owner cant provide proof(and I mean recights,not just his word since wtf do you know aboot him,eh)then if you still want it that should be the first thing changed,94+ nissan timing belts need to be changed every 105 thounsand miles(I dont know what km that is)and if they break then you need a new engine,or a rebuild since the valves hit the pistons and bend and cause all sorts of hell. If you get it then welcome to the club. I'm nismo and I'm glad to met you and help you in any way...

or on you rear door...no rocks get there ether...is it just me or does any one else think its going to get all full oh sh!t when GG backs up...?

Uh,is you tank full of gas,most cars will stutter in hard coners and from stops if you punch it. Its sound like a fuel issue but old timers say that 90 percent of fuel issues are really electrcal issues.... You may have a peice of sh!t in the gas tank and its plugging up the fuel pump pick up,which to me is what it sounds like.THe only way to fix it is to get a new or used gas tank in better shape.Tanks get rusty on the in side from moister building up after time if the truck has sat with out use for a long time.There no getting around it other then making sure the truck has a full tank with sta-bil in it when its stored for over a month.

the gas in the tank could be jelling up and he sucked some into the fuel pump,the gas tank could be rusty and a piece of sh1t could of been sucked into the full pump... My camaro doesnt like sitting in the barn with hay bales,she will refuse to start every time I leave it in there with them,will take me like 20 minutes of babying it to get her to fire and then runs crappy after wards until its warmed up.Any other pole head or garage(non are heated) and it fires up on the first try,I dont know what it is ether other then shes a tempamentle old hag that doesnt want to get her pretty face dirty... Sorry o hear that you t-belt broke,that sucks.If you just had it replaced I would go b!tch at the guy that did it,since he clearly didnt doe it correctly.

I agree with adam,the one editor of 4wor just had his diesel chevy stolen(old 80s 1 ton army truck) and it was in a parking lot broke down...

Nothing bad happens,you just need to seafoam the engine to clean it out.I ran Q in my camaro and all that I noticed was the sin oil smoked less.I have since gone back to good ol quker state and yeah it smokes(at start up,it needs valve guides but its a 305 with 250k on a bone stock engine that has never had any major work)

If your engine isnt a sludge pit with old leaks that have been plugged by carbon and stuff then you fine.If you have seafoamed it before and never had any leaks then I find it really hard to believe that your engine will leak.I ran a sin blend(motor craft 5w-20) for about 1500 miles and I made my gilbert trip with it and it always started fine and I knocked down 23 mpg with it.But after just my gilbert trip(350 miles) the truck had already used a full quirt of oil(burning and leaking from rear main seal)But my engine was never maintain by its prevese owner(s).The leakage and burn off may have been from the 20 weight oil but I'm not sure. But you engine should be fine if its been seafoamed before and never leaked.You will see a little better mpg and less wear(although it will be minimal because of the milage on the engine)

You boys are afraid of chains,well I once used a chain to pull a avalance out of my pond,I didnt notice until later(I use the same chain to chain my boat up for deer hunting,I cross a river) that I couldnt use a pad-lock on most of the links because they where streched.This was a heavy chain,but clearly not heavy anuff to pull out a 6000 pound truck.I have a set of logging chains now that links are 1 inch thick(not the whole link,just one side) My grand farther used them as secondary saftys one semi trailer(was the sixtys,he was union...)They have never strected or shown any signs of wear and will be passed along because I trust my life to these chains.A recovery strap or winch is best but chains are a stand by,they have been around longer then any thing else and have been proven time and time again that they are safe.Most of the injorys are caused by the users own stupidness,they clearly chose poor quility stuff and it has come back to bite them.I have had a recovery strap break because it was being used in tandom with a chain and the chain just dropped,while the strap came flying at the back of my truck.And this was a qulity recovery strap,and not one of those 5000 pound max tow straps you get at wally world.

Craiglist...oh and theres a mint fresh 94-95 black model by me for 2900 hundred,like new except the rear frame is rotten...

There are only two cam grinds other then stock you can choose from,theres a eroupion grind and a slight less agressive grind,I dont know who makes them(other then nissan) but RPMRONs has cam grinds but there pretty spendy...

There a right up on hear for checking codes,I think its in the garage section and yes I believe it is the same... Where are you in mn...?

Crawl under and look at the muff and for leaks in the tranny engine and rear end.leakage of master cylider and wear on belts,tires.Look at the end of the cigerret lighter,since if even they say its never been smoked in a little freebreeze will cover it up,the lighter gives it away...make sure that all the lights work,ac,blower motor,power windows and so on.Look for oil in the radiator,how the tranny fluid looks and the oil colar...

Full filter or a dying fuel pump,the pump will do this when its getting ready to let go.Goes down hill until the pump wont push any gas at all...(most times if a pump is on its last legs it will still give anuff gas to the engine to make it onto a trailer(like you stated will run for 10seconds))

I think its just a computer swap for the tranny...

I've never had a problem with it...?

The cup things work but leave cresses that you use heat on to get out...if its a big crease or hale dent the only thing to do is puddy over them since your never going to get it right...