nismothunder

Its good stuff and it works... Its not harmful unless your truck has bad valve guides with a lot of carbon on then that not leting the oil get past into the cylinders. People use it for every thing,from fogging boat motors to race engines and every thing between...

so you'll be called Jimmy(or JIMMY!!!) from now on...

Get some of the truck too...so I know whatt one I should t-bone if I ever see it...

44 inch ground hawgs would work nice...but it would be a waste since the vg30e would be lighting then up all the time... But the 48s would tame the engine a bit...or 54s...but only if you get legos(I think they only come in 16+

2 Q's? Whats the normal heat range on at's... And is there a little switch on the bottom(under where you mounted the gauge)since my truck has one and I'm wondering what its for...

So...with straght 30 does it start when it wants too? I hope your using detergent 30 and not none-detergent 30...

No but genrally on mine(which has a 3.5 quirt pan) I would start worrying if it is half a quirt low in 3000 miles. A 5 quirt pan I wouldnt worry until a full quirt was being used in 3000 miles.

Ams oil is good,go to there sit and check them out for what you need. Check out the severe gear 75-90,it has a fanfreaking tasstic cold flow rating,better then royal purple and redline(this is for like -40 though)

189383...blown tranny,no 3rd or over drive...still see's use in my pond/mud pit...

Truthly there wont be any harm done to the engine,just the ticking,witch you can muffle if you put sound mate under the hood.I'd be more afraid of the frame rotting off before the stud give you any problems...

Mine does the same thing,but it never bothered me,it would always start and it hasnt dont it since I replaced the dizzy cap and rotor but like you said its not turning over,just clicking,so maybe you just need to clean some termnals and connectings.

I have to say that I dont really think its coming from your truck,since you say the oil is black and it feels real thick(and cold I'm guessing) The only way to tell if its coming from your truck is to drive it and park it where you know there are no oil puddles already.

The tranny fluid is Dex 3, but you can use dex 5 since its easyer to find some times. The only way to tell if the cooler is big anuff is by the GVWR,18000 pound is ideal.

I'm in mn and I have a pre cat(I also have pet cats if that counts?),but we dont have any smog rules so I can hack them off if I really wanted to.If your new cat is good then I dont see how it will be any less efincesent then the ones on it already.

When I change the t-case fluid on my 95 is had the same thing...But I was the first person to ever change it so I considered it normal wear and tear for a truck with 187k on it.When the parts are new they wear more,since there getting broken in.

wow yours whisles?I have a 95 and it doesnt whisle...god that must drive you nuts.I always drove with mine open and it never did any think like that.

Big ass vacume leak? vacuum leaks cause all sorts of problems...Could also be a head gasket or the temostate and its cause the truck to shut of when it gets to hot. But yeah vacuum leaks,my 76 gmc had a mega vauum leak(long story,friend dad was welding a hole in a valve cover and he used gunk or something to clean up the hole and when I started it it back fired like a 12gauge and sounded like it was a brocken rocker but a vacum hose was blown of the transmission and it caused it to not run right on the left bank)...I told this story to show the point of vacum and how if not work right it can cause all sorts of hell.

Sure looks like a retread...old school goodyear tread pattern...I had a tru-trac that was majorly rotten do that to me once,but not that bad,it was only a flapper...but damn that looks like it would of been a ride.

What one? I believe they both do... But if your rebuilding the engine ya self Look at www.RPMRONS.com...he has a lot of tech stuff on building engines for beginniners and stuff. I know that nap has one,Its www.northernautoparts.com,ITM I dont know the site,but ya can google it... Also RPMRON has kit for nissan,but there like $1100 buck,but from what I under stand is there custom made for each person soif thats your thing then ya its probly worth it to you since it;ll be made how you want it(note.when I say custom I mean,cam grinds and stroker kits and blue printing)

ITM import block kits... I see one for a vg30e for my truck for $353.06,includes... pistons,rings,rod bearings(no rod or crank though in this kit) main bearings,thrust washers(if required) oil pump,and a full gasket set. I didnt see one for the vg30i but I'm sure they have one since they have ones for both the z24,and z24e truck 4 banger as well.Theres another company that has rebuild kits with over size pistons but I dont know there name,but there sold out of Northern auto parts(a catalog)

A guy my dad knows(Bass) had this on his avalance since he bought it,and they only covered a bearing replacement since he was driving when it seized(but not the labor,just the part.Every thing else,new rear end,new wheels afte one of the stock cast one cracked,intake gasket,nothing,they didnt cover any of it.And the fee isnt that small.

Yeah...but you know theres a company that sells complete engine rebuild kits from 200-400 dollars for this engine(depending if you want a new crank)

backing up dave and B on this one also.

My camaro does the same thing,never had a problem.If it is just bugging you clean up the termals on the battery to she if it helps(i dought it but at least its something to do) Oh yeah,you could always.......... Check the fluid.

I said that B Yeah BAR's STOP LEAK its at every wal-mart I've ever been to,a clear bottle with a black cap and a blue,red and white logo.