nismothunder

Flush it and change the filter,add a cooler and it should be fixed.If your not getting noise and if you shake the tire(off the ground) and it doesnt move then its probly not a ball-joint(bearing also) its probly the tie rods,just make sure there not loose and the bolts still have the cotter pins in them and you should be good.But yeah,really get on top of the tranny problem...

Wouldnt the VVS be at one of the wheels? It would make sense that it would instead of in the tranny?

oh ok...I thought maybe you had put a new dizzy in and was calling it a rotor.The rotor is hard to put in wrong since it has a screw that holds it in that is on the side and I dont think any one can put it in wrong.

Building a roll cage isnt all that hard...but you should take your time doing it...

wait...are you saying you took the dizzy out...or just took the dizzy cap off and then replaced the rotor?

I got really dark tint on all my windows except the rear,whick is kinda weird,its black around the edges but in the center its smoked...give my truck truck a really distinktive look and I like it...but what do I now...I drive a wd21

Man,I feel your pain,I asked this a while ago and I got a bunch of stuff about putting a tranny cooler and shift kit in...nothing about the little stuff...I'll watch this tread. To see if you get any thing I didnt.

Yeah you can just keep a eye on it and add a bottle of bars stop leak at every oil change.Its really no biggy,mine leaks, and burns oil from valve guides,but when I put the bars in it greatly reduces the burn off and slows the leak(its still there),Some people dont like stop leak and I have to agree,some looks like its made with sand,but the stuff I get looks just like really thick oil and I've never had any trouble with it,but some people really hate it so its up to you.This is if what the others said doesnt fix it.

Look into a smittybilt bumper like slike as on mimime and have some buddy weld some angle iron on to it to protechet the front.Or you can get a texastuff front bumper and brush guard,these bumpers are both tough as nail(the smitty built I know from my mud truck that it can hit 4-6 trees and not bend the bumper,just plow the trees over.

Easy,bang the flakes out with a hammer then attack it with a wire brush to clean it up and to get any crap left over before sanding it.I would drill any flowage holes on the side but if your putting a plate on the bottom then yeah,it will let the crap get out unlike the stock flowage holes.I cant think of any thing else,but make sure the battorys disconnected.

It would be kinda hard to not put it in right since you have to use a screw to reattach it,but you may have amoved it some,But I think you would of noticed that.It could be that theres a build up on it though.

Could the ratiator be rusted and its causeing the fluid to be forced into the over flow bottle and leaking from there?Could also be leaking from the heater coil. Back firing- I dont I really any thing to add to this,but my 95 would do this on cold mornings and it was caused by the rotor ir dizzy cap(I replaced both)

My 95s cam seals where pretty well chewed up at 170ish when I had the t-belt replaced(fyi-it started as a water replacement but when I saw what I had to do to get the water pump out I was like I cant do this so I farmed it out.Which wasnt a good idea since the guy I took it to had it from thanks giving until dec 18.He was more concerned about opening his bowling ally then repairing stuff)

I'd probly do a five speed swap,but I'm unable to find a decent parts truck that has a stick. And I can tow more with the auto any way. But I was asking is,does any one have any good luck with a signal type of tranny cooler,and is there a brand I should look out for.Like is there a cooler that has the fins placed to closly together like the stock unit. The truck I'm looking at is a 91 model(I stated 95 before) that was the sellers first car(hes a kid) and it has 93k on it.But he said he bondoed a lot of holes on it.So the frame is probly junk.But I figure if worse comes to worse I can drive that in the winter until the t-belt breaks or the frame shakes apart and do the swap.

International Scouts came with 4 banger nissan diesels.

Ok so a few know that my tranny went south a while ago. Now is a time for a rebuild with winter coming on and every thing. But what should I do,rebuilt the tranny in it or get a used one to replace it. I'm going to be taking it to a transmission shop at some point in the near future to have the tranny pulled and disassembled to see if it rebuild able or if I need to get a parts truck(already have one picked out,red 95 model) But hears what I'm looking for,should I add a shift kit and tranny-cooler(t-cooler is fore sure) If so what kind(for t-cooler) should I go to amsoil atf or stick with dex...I figure the amsoil would be good to use right off the bat so the tranny gets broken in on it and I can slowly wean it back to dex to save money at filter changes. Thanks for any advice.

If your doing the water pump and t-belt you might as well do the cam seals too.Since there probly starting to leak. 94-95 t-belts last 105k(when they should be changed,my95 had 160k on it and it was never changed until I got it) All told, if you know what your doing it should be about 4-6 hours to do it all.

Fender acustic.Got it and a hard case for 300 bucks. I can play good but havent been able to play in like a year since I have to tune it every 10 minutes and that got old fast. Usally play G-funk rr,steven stills,and other good music.

auto?stick?If its a auto does it have a aftermarket tranny cooler?If not I wouldnt do it since you'd probly burn the tranny up.