nismothunder

Its a older model Amada CNC lathe...he has all the maintance history on it to...

I'll have to get back to you b because I dont really know what type/brand it is...I do know its not a Sripet(I know some brands but this thing I never looked at)

What kinda bronco are you talking about,a first gen (66-77) second gen(big SOLID axled monster78-79) or late model(80-96) A old blazer frame would be better,you can get one with a over drive tranny and fuel injection with solid axles.Its a lot of work,I help a guy put a k10 cab on a k5 frame and we had to do all new body mounts and chop and re weld the floor 2 inchs to fit the tranny and t-case in.(the blazer has been rolled though but still it was more work then I thought) If youhave a trailer(6x8 made fromangle iron) then put the body on that A engine puller will lift the body problem(lifted my impalas)

What kinda bronco are you talking about,a first gen (66-77) second gen(big SOLID axled monster78-79) or late model(80-96) A old blazer frame would be better,you can get one with a over drive tranny and fuel injection with solid axles.Its a lot of work,I help a guy put a k10 cab on a k5 frame and we had to do all new body mounts and chop and re weld the floor 2 inchs to fit the tranny and t-case in.(the blazer has been rolled though but still it was more work then I thought) If youhave a trailer(6x8 made fromangle iron) then put the body on that A engine puller will lift the body problem(lifted my impalas)

Damnit,Nunyas posts are getting clearer and clearer all the time...

Ok,so my dad bought a giant mill/lath(really the size of 76 k20 on 37s),is there any one interested custom under drive pullys/throttle body spacers and such for there rigs,if so post hear on what parts your looking for/what type of metal and I'll see what I can do.

Nunya...I thought you knew better...there isnt a 2 door pathy,theres a 3 door and a 5 door...and you call your self a pathy fan.

Good post,only thing is you use AC-Delco Plugs,champions are for weed wHakers and chain saws...

If your talking about the 3.0 in the mini van then there the same HP(153) the 3.3 I'mnot sure of,but the exhaust manifold is diffrent,other then that there the same engine...

1995 pathy only,105k t-belts,modern dash,decent milage and if you can drive over something,just push it out of the way...plus a lot of hiding places...

Well they can be bald and you can still drive on them for about 5k...I say probly30-40k,the side walls will probly crack before the tread is worn off...

I've never done it but yeah it looks to be about 2-3 inchs of lift in back with the coils,you can crank the t-bars in front and get probly 2 inchs out of them.

OK,this will stand for all time what I'm going to say...If you live in a area that put salt on there roads in winter dont get a wheel that is clear coated(painted is fine,I'm talking about clear coated alumium and steels wheels) the coat flakes off and the wheels look really bad.

Timing belts on 94-95s are changed at 105k,since his only has 66k on it he should have a while yet,unless its old and brittle or the camseals are leaking and then it should be replaced now!

Smartasses,dont make fun of the slow new guy...

I say you double gasketed or got a cheapy,the filter should go all the way around,also,did you lube the gasket on the new filter or just screwed it on with a dry gasket?

Well it looks clean,the 80k on the engine sounds like BS but who knows...

Fuel is the problem know,you said you had a bad fuel line right?(I'm lazy and dont want to go back and read) did you replace the fuel filter with it?Could be any of the above meanted,check to make sure the fuel presure regulator hose on the back of the intake is on,if it off then it'll cause starting problems and a wabbly idle.

Just wondering aloud hear but what did you do to rebuild the engine.Did you re ring it too or just replace all the other stuff?

Have you tryed shooting some starting fluid in it to get it to fire.Most new engines/rebuilt/engine that have sat need the extra help the first time starting.

Did you check to see if the 1 cylinder is on the compression or exhaust stroke,if its on the exhaust it wont fire because all the fuel is get pushed out of the intake into the exhaust.I check it by putting your fingure over the spark plug hole to see if you feel your fingure getting pushed back by the pressure...

There both good,I prefer a auto since theres no clutch to get covered in mud(autos are more water/mud proof then some sticks.All the sticks I own have non-synced first gears so you cant shift into first if your moving(kinda defeats the purpess of down shifting) and you really dont need to worry about over reving a auto if you in drive since it shifts itself. And the only auto that says you push start in the survice manuel that I now of is the pre 66 gm powerglide.Those things cant be kill,I should now since I was drive 55-60 mph down a road once and the damn thing shifted into 1st(only 2 forward gears)

Do you have the 1 cylinder on the exhaust stroke instead of on the compressing stroke,that will cause it to not fire.