nismothunder

Ditto,thats worse then mine and on hear most peoples frames where better then mine before they fixed it.You can do one of four things... 1.get another truck that have good frames on them (ford,dodge or chevy/gmc) 2.pay out the ass to have it fixed... 3.fix it your self... 4.Try to find a nissan with a good frame but bad engine or tranny and swap over. 1.I dont know if you like any of these trucks and you may not want to buy domestic. 2.I wouldnt pay more then a 1k to have it fixed,and that'll be more unless you know the guy. 3.this is the cheapess but very time consuming. 4.Most of the trucks in your area are probly just as rotten.

Check out summit,they have some nice ones,I'm not really a tip man but some of them have caught my eye.

Its been down,I looked up the oil filter and it said I can get at it by removing the inner fender(plastic part)It also says its on the driver side so i'll get it done tomarrow,I did the rear axle lube and noticed it needs a new breather on the diff so that'll be ordered tomarrow.

It does sound like its a fuel pump thats going out,it not pumping strong anuff to get the gas into the engine but its suction feeding after the engine is off,but first try a bottle of heet,its 1.99 and if it doesnt work then you know its not that...

Then the front diff must not be engaged because if it was then its a all-wheel drive,they could be engaged all the time but it shouldnt be a problem because with the fron diff locked out then there just free wheeling and dont have the strain on them like when there in 4x...

Are there any tricks for the r50s maintance,I gotta change the oil and other stuff to day one a 96 model and I want to do a run down on any thing that I might of missed.I'm going to take a guess and say that the engine hold 3.5 quarts like the 3.0 and that the filter maybe the same one for the 3.0(I have a filter for a 95 and if it'll fit I'll use it)I'm not going ask on what kind of oil I should uses because its getting the cheap stuck(quaker state or mobile 5000)or maybe pennzoil since I have 25 quirts of 10-30 sitting in the garage.Ok,also the cv is making noise in 4x,it has auto hubs so inst the cv always spinning and the hubs arnt ingaged.If not then its fine,Also,what gear oil should I throw in the rear axle and the t-case take Dex3 right like on the wd21s?

I've seen ones like your saying but my truck had Smitty built bumpers on both the front and back with the mounts in them allready.I cheaped out on the mount and made one out of 1/4 inch angle iron and 1/4 inch squire tubing.I then got my cheap winch(chicago electric 10k model)and mounted it.I justed used a pin held on with a cottor pin and took it off before driving the truck any place.

Gator backs glaze up bad,I had a brand new one on the ac compresore on my 95 and in 6 months it was howling like no other. Keep one or two of the old ones and throw them in the back,because a worn belt is better then no belt.

Gas does freeze,and so does diesel.Get a bottle of Heet(spelld like that) and dump it in the tank,you probly have a bad fuel pump or ice build up right before the fuel filter.Put heet in the gas at ever fill,half a bottle each time.

True duels do have there merits,if you have a miss you can tell what bank itson,my ol' muddy had true duel and flowmasters(not the loud ones) and a vacuum line came off the tranny and leaned out one cylinder so badly it sounded like it was knocking. On a 8 cylinder(because of the displacement you'd notice a bump in hp,but unless the 6 has a lot of mods on it I dont think its worth the time to do true duels all the way back...

89 pos was 243-6k when I traded for a chevy Luv(on a 4 banger...was slow and burned oil) 95 189k

No idea on the speed of valve springs,and yeah % is the wrong simble but I couldnt figure out where the divension symble is so I made do with what I had...

A stock pipe is like 1.75,I have a glass pack with 2 inch pipe from the cat back and it sounded like a tuner car(no fart can,more like...I dont know what but it sounded good and if I let off the gas and coasted it would pop like glass packs do) A true duel off road would get in the way unless you had them exit before the back tires,the would also a hassle to install since the rear axle and stuff are in the way. Theres a video on Youtube of a 3.0 hard body with a glass pack,it sounded like that...

Ok hears some simple math for engines...let me put on my lab coat and then well get started... Ok hear are the Questions... 1.How tall a gear shold I run? 2.What is my rpm rev limit,and how can I increase it? 3.Whats the size of my engine now that I have a .040 over bore? 4.If I want to race it in the 1/4 how do I figure out what I should dial my ET as...? First off you need to know... 1.weight of the car. 2.engine size/cubic inchs. 3Tire diameter 4.rear gear ratio 5Bored and strokes of a stock engine of the same type... Maximum Engine Rpm... Stock engines(cast cranks and so on) 21000 % stroke=rpm Heavy duty engines(forged insides) 24,000%stroke=rpm Racing engines(fordged and aluimnum pistons and such) 30,000%stroke=rpm So for a stock 360 dodge it would be... 21,000%3.58=5865 rpm And the shorter the stroke the higher the rpms,if you didnt know Piston Speed... 6%(RPMxstroke)=piston speed. and what the rpm limit it is also just as simple. Stroke%(6xpiston speed)=Rpm limit So a 360 with a 3.58 stroke and maximum rpm of 5,865 rpm would have a piston speed of 3,499 fpm(feet per minute) Figureing torq... Another simple math problem... A 80s 360 v8 is rated at 170hp at 4000rpm you will need to now this,you will be quized class... So its (max hp x 5252)% the rpm which the engine make max hp... So a 360 that makes 170 hp at 4000rpm would make 223lbs at the same point... (170x5252)%4000=223 Ok class now calm down...it now Cubic inchs time...yay!! Ok I know your happy but shut and sit down... and you in the back put you pants back on... Number of cylinders x .7854 x bore x bore x stroke... So a 307 v8 bored .o40 over would be 313 cubic inchs... the problem looks like this 8x .7854 x 3.915x3.913 x 3.25 = 312.9 ci(you round up to 313...) I hope this helps you people that always wanted to know how to figure this stuff out but didnt know how... Thank you,its been great,good night!!!

Well thats a 2 wheel drive truck with probly a 2... or 3.23 gear ratio,after 77 the 400m had something like 7.6-1 compresion and there considered econmy engines for trucks.My uncle has a 79 f250 2 spinner with the same engine and a c6,he said he didnt think he ever got better then 8mpg before it was rebuilt(its built about as much as a 400m can) But the fact still stands,the engine is going in a 3800 pound truck thats going to be lifted and on big tires which will affect mpg's even more.

Just throwing it out there but coil packs are usally replaced within a 100k,its a maintance item and I believe the auto tranny in 01 pathys is the same as the ones in wd21 models,4spd od,these transmissions dont like heat like any a/t so it was probly towing related that they went out or improper maintance.The wd21 had a lot of trouble with clogging a/t coolers and that caused them to burn up.

I must say non abs is freaking scary on ice,I slid down a exit ramp at a grocry store with all the wheels locked slowly aprocting a malibu...and I was only going like 5 mph at the time...

Nissan made a old carbed disel for international for there scouts,didnt have much power but they got mid 20s in them with non over drive trannys and 4.10 gears...

A 4.3 is a 350 with 2 cylinders missing,so wouldnt it be just engine mount modes to a 4.3 swap,a th700 or the newer od will all live be hind a mildly built 350 or 305.

Ok,if you think you can pull high teens mpg with the 360 and 4spd(or 3spd) thats behind that engine then your on something.I get a best of maybe 12mpg in my 89 with a fuelie 306 v8(302 bored .020 over,I think its acually a 305 but I call it a 306) with a t18 4spd tranny and 3.55 gears going 55...I dont spin the tires in it ether or whind it up that often. I run the stock size 235/75-15 tires on it too,if I still had my 33inch ground hawgs then I would get better mpg cruizing because the bigger the tire the higher(3.55 too 3.23 or something) the gear ratio is.A q-jet carb will help you mpg since they have smaller primarys plus there are hard to beat off road.But with out a od you arnt goint to get a high teen mpg out of it,not a chance in hell.Plus you want to lift it which will cut down on mpgs even more.

I think he was bs about the weight,all small blocks usally weigh within about a 100lbs of each other...

Well how aboot say piss on the old fe wide block motor and go out and get yourself a 500ci caddy big block,400hp,500lbs and when you put a aluminum intake on them they weigh maybe 50 pounds more then a iron headed 350... I now your just saying chevys are worthless because you a ford fan and thats what ford people do...Theres really nothing wrong with your idea since you already have the engine and tranny,if you didnt already have the engine and tranny I would of said go with a sbc instead of a old fe360.A fe 360 made in the best year 245 hp,which is pleanty to move a pathfinder,but if your looking for better milage I will say look at putting a 302 ford or 305 chevy with a od tranny in there.The old FE engines are gas hogs(Fe are 352,360,390,406 cubic inch engines if you didnt know,FE stands for Ford Edsel)Ford makes good engines(I have 4 ford products,a 89 f150/306 4spd,86 c-vic 302,1992 ford tores 3.0/new rebuilt heads at 220k,currently 260 or 280k,and a 2002 f150fx4 with the 5.4.I also have a 1991 camaro rs 305 and 2 65 chevy impala/283 p-glide and 305 th200.I must say that the small cube chevys deliver much better power ranges and mpg then the same size fords. If your going to stick with your old 360 then at least spend the money and get a gearvenders over drive or a od tranny to put behind it because the engine will be spining around 3500 rpm at 55 with ether the 4.3 or 4.6 gears.

Well you got the right person to response to this one,Pezzy and her minivan go just aboot anywhere and any advise she gives should be listioned to,since she's been wheeling a mini van harder then most wd21 truck owners do...

Check the little hose on the overflow bottle,it may have had oil run in it at one point.If its good it will feel stiff,if its bad it will be like a wet noodle when you squize it.A radiator cap could cause the problem,also not anuff coolant(head gasket/water pump or a cracked hose)Mine did the same thing and it was the over flow hose,90degree hose on the intake and the water pump and the rubber aound the cap was torn off.It may just be a bad hose too...hope this helps