ZombeeXXX

Bump!! Can a mod pls Pin this?

Disconnected the sensor for the light.

Is that a bulb color change as well? Its sooooo bright and noticed the clock is blue? I wish my cluster was that bright. I lost my speedo last week so I will be working on it anyway when its a little nicer

How many miles on your clutch, nuts? Sounds like wear or oil contamination. Might want to think about rweplacing it.

That's a sweet idea for switches! For power output, I tapped into the radio circuit right a the fuse by cutting a crimp on spade connector or something small enough to plug into the fuse panel slot. Just use a test light to see which side of the fuse is protected and jam her and the fuse in at the same time. Actually, this was the pigtail for my cb. I grounded it under the dash near the passenger's feet. Found a power outlet with 2 ports and 2 usb and a led battery indicator and cut off the lighter plug and spliced it directlyto the cb pigtail near the console. When I put the interior together it will come out from under the console and have a couple feet of cord to reach any seat or the cargo area. Most things I use it for draw less than an amp each so no worry about the wiring the pigtail has a built in 5 amp fuse anyway. I can post a few pics when I go for break

Well for the front seal, I'd look to the garage section for the timing belt writeup as you'll need the belt and pulleys off anyway. Good time to do thermostat and bypass hose as well as the cam's seals. For the rear it's a bit more involved, as the tranny needs to be removed as well as the flywheel. The rear seal rides in a carrier which bolts to the block so once you get to it, it's a simple change. You may also want to look for the rubber carrier to pan seal. This is kind of a wedge shaped rubber seal that attaches to the exterior edge of the carrier. I didn't do mine but it would be cheap insurance while you're there.

Chances are coolant contaminated the bellt anyway. This will drastically reduce its life. Might as well doit while you are there not 1000 miles down the road.

Nice vid! One thing I've noticed (my first lsd rear drive) is the ability or tendency to slide the rears with engine braking. Only on a very slick surface, closing throttle abruptly can act as if you applied the parking brake. I haven't experienced any additional tendencies to oversteer on acceleration but before, I drove my Z year round and thus became very gentle with the gas. It is open rear ended but likes to wag its tail all over even on dry pavement a hard shift into second gets it loose. I feel the lsd pathy has always been easier to get a controlled sustainable drift in the snow. I suppose weight distribution comes into play. I have noticed lately pulling out from a stop or idle in first I can get some chirp out of the inside tire if turning and gassing it hard. I suppose it could be unsettling but it feels like I'd really have to stand on it to get it to break loose. Never really experienced any looseness in wet conditions but I guess I haven't really pushed it to see what it would do.

I don't see a point to them honestly. I am used to the feel and control without them and haven't bothered to worry about them on either truck. YMMV.. I LIKE the ability to lock.

finally found it. You don't have to use the old style z31 ecu. Those of us with 84-86's look for 87 and up ecu's as an upgrade. Here Is the different ecu's we have to choose from and the important differences. What's important is that an 88-89 NA z31 uses a high impedence injector driver and maintain teh zirconium sensor. I dk what the wd21 o2 sensor is stock but the 88-89 T z31 uses the titania. Of course you'd have to get it programmed to NA maps. It's kinda up to what o2 you decided to run i must've missed that. That old of Z won't have clutch interlock. The clutch switch is for cruise. All the more reason to keep idiots out from behind your wheel. Plz ditch the crappy z31 airbox in exchange for any decent cone that will fit your piping once you get it laid out.

My problem is destroying the upper sunroof gasket with removing and installing the glass. Every time I take it out, the gasket gets pinched, pulled, and or folded.

The bellhousing is about an inch smaller diameter on the 4 cyl. Also, the starter is on the top-side.

I carry a tiny vicegrip in the cowling of the Z as it's hood struts blow just clamp it on the rod. They are not very expensive, though...

I think Spring isolator maybe gone? At the top of your spring is there a rubber seat between it and the metal?

I just installed the Rhino Pac clutch off rock auto. As I recall it was a pretty happy medium in cost. Also they had a picture of it and the disc just looked sturdier than some of the others. It came with pilot, t.o.b., p.p., and a decent alignment tool. I only got some 1600 miles on it though. It was real grabby and not forgiving at first, but it seems to have seated nicely. Not one chatter or slip but I have babied it. Took about 5 days to get here. I have also installed the rhino pac clutch hydraulics on both of my vehicles, but neither have seen more than a few thousand miles yet so their ultimate durability remains to be seen. I will admit it feels very light and smooth. If it wasn't for the spring on the pedal, I might wonder if my foot was doing anything. This may be due to driving an old pickup with a cable clutch for 4 months though.