ZombeeXXX

Bump!! Can a mod pls Pin this?

Disconnected the sensor for the light.

Is that a bulb color change as well? Its sooooo bright and noticed the clock is blue? I wish my cluster was that bright. I lost my speedo last week so I will be working on it anyway when its a little nicer

How many miles on your clutch, nuts? Sounds like wear or oil contamination. Might want to think about rweplacing it.

That's a sweet idea for switches! For power output, I tapped into the radio circuit right a the fuse by cutting a crimp on spade connector or something small enough to plug into the fuse panel slot. Just use a test light to see which side of the fuse is protected and jam her and the fuse in at the same time. Actually, this was the pigtail for my cb. I grounded it under the dash near the passenger's feet. Found a power outlet with 2 ports and 2 usb and a led battery indicator and cut off the lighter plug and spliced it directlyto the cb pigtail near the console. When I put the interior together it will come out from under the console and have a couple feet of cord to reach any seat or the cargo area. Most things I use it for draw less than an amp each so no worry about the wiring the pigtail has a built in 5 amp fuse anyway. I can post a few pics when I go for break

Well for the front seal, I'd look to the garage section for the timing belt writeup as you'll need the belt and pulleys off anyway. Good time to do thermostat and bypass hose as well as the cam's seals. For the rear it's a bit more involved, as the tranny needs to be removed as well as the flywheel. The rear seal rides in a carrier which bolts to the block so once you get to it, it's a simple change. You may also want to look for the rubber carrier to pan seal. This is kind of a wedge shaped rubber seal that attaches to the exterior edge of the carrier. I didn't do mine but it would be cheap insurance while you're there.

Chances are coolant contaminated the bellt anyway. This will drastically reduce its life. Might as well doit while you are there not 1000 miles down the road.

Nice vid! One thing I've noticed (my first lsd rear drive) is the ability or tendency to slide the rears with engine braking. Only on a very slick surface, closing throttle abruptly can act as if you applied the parking brake. I haven't experienced any additional tendencies to oversteer on acceleration but before, I drove my Z year round and thus became very gentle with the gas. It is open rear ended but likes to wag its tail all over even on dry pavement a hard shift into second gets it loose. I feel the lsd pathy has always been easier to get a controlled sustainable drift in the snow. I suppose weight distribution comes into play. I have noticed lately pulling out from a stop or idle in first I can get some chirp out of the inside tire if turning and gassing it hard. I suppose it could be unsettling but it feels like I'd really have to stand on it to get it to break loose. Never really experienced any looseness in wet conditions but I guess I haven't really pushed it to see what it would do.

I don't see a point to them honestly. I am used to the feel and control without them and haven't bothered to worry about them on either truck. YMMV.. I LIKE the ability to lock.

finally found it. You don't have to use the old style z31 ecu. Those of us with 84-86's look for 87 and up ecu's as an upgrade. Here Is the different ecu's we have to choose from and the important differences. What's important is that an 88-89 NA z31 uses a high impedence injector driver and maintain teh zirconium sensor. I dk what the wd21 o2 sensor is stock but the 88-89 T z31 uses the titania. Of course you'd have to get it programmed to NA maps. It's kinda up to what o2 you decided to run i must've missed that. That old of Z won't have clutch interlock. The clutch switch is for cruise. All the more reason to keep idiots out from behind your wheel. Plz ditch the crappy z31 airbox in exchange for any decent cone that will fit your piping once you get it laid out.

My problem is destroying the upper sunroof gasket with removing and installing the glass. Every time I take it out, the gasket gets pinched, pulled, and or folded.

The bellhousing is about an inch smaller diameter on the 4 cyl. Also, the starter is on the top-side.

I carry a tiny vicegrip in the cowling of the Z as it's hood struts blow just clamp it on the rod. They are not very expensive, though...

I think Spring isolator maybe gone? At the top of your spring is there a rubber seat between it and the metal?

I just installed the Rhino Pac clutch off rock auto. As I recall it was a pretty happy medium in cost. Also they had a picture of it and the disc just looked sturdier than some of the others. It came with pilot, t.o.b., p.p., and a decent alignment tool. I only got some 1600 miles on it though. It was real grabby and not forgiving at first, but it seems to have seated nicely. Not one chatter or slip but I have babied it. Took about 5 days to get here. I have also installed the rhino pac clutch hydraulics on both of my vehicles, but neither have seen more than a few thousand miles yet so their ultimate durability remains to be seen. I will admit it feels very light and smooth. If it wasn't for the spring on the pedal, I might wonder if my foot was doing anything. This may be due to driving an old pickup with a cable clutch for 4 months though.

Wouldn't a dead tourque converter cause something like this?

That looks handy. Anyone tried their corrosion inhibitor? http://www.staunproducts.com/masso_329.php

In my experience, they wear out at roughly the same pace. I mean they get used up at the same rate, and any remaining contaminants in there will degrade the new parts sooner. Replacing both master and slave at the same time cost me $45 plus fluid. RockAuto.com is your friend, I have their Rhino pac cylinders on both my vehicles. Also with both cylinders removed you can drain/blow out with air all the nasty black old fluid. True value has some tubing that will fit over the bleeders if you take your new slave in it would make it easier. Get a few feet, you can always cut some off. stick the other end in your container of brake fluid, open the bleeder and work the pedal until you see nice clear fluid coming out. For bench bleeding, the new master has one (1) outlet and should come with a plug in it. Add only a bit of fluid to the reservoir for this as you will dump a lot out trying to install it later. Simply hold the plug with your thumb as tight as you can and you can use a wall joist or door frame to push the rod against, just make sure it is straight or it can bind. You will need 10 mm flare nut wrench for all the tubing fittings, a big brake fluid supply is good. Tiny fingers help, but it is an afternoon job with a buddy. Get a haynes to see pictures, but it is just 2 bolts and tubing fitting on each cyl. Also, for me it was easier to unscrew the rod from the bracket on the pedal than to remove/reinstall that damn pin.

the blue connector in #1 is a blue relay also. I think my m/t truck had one there maybe important? I want to know what the connectors by the fuse box are for, I'll have to get some pics.

Only thing I'd like to add is that the vg30 rear crank seal is in a carrier which unbolts from the block. This makes removal from the crank a snap with little worry of scratching. For torque converter bolts, I had to make a special 120 mile trip to get offset box end wrenches. A standard box end will not get on them squarely enough to break them loose. These have more of a curve so they clear the starter opening. Less than $20 for the set at harbor freight, though. And grease your seal lip before trying to install it. HTH

Hello Norman, Welcome aboard! I remember riding some pretty sweet go karts near Dubai. As Nunya expressed, we want pics of your ride! Tim

Welcome from the other side of the big water! Shame to see the damage, must've been a hard hit. I would definitely be upset if that happened to mine the first day out. Hell, the first year out, for that matter. Good luck shopping, do they salt your roads? Anxious to hear the plan.

After fighting this tranny basically for a whole day, I called in some more eyes and muscles. The non-hydraulic jack was less than ideal for lifting and positioning the tranny with the T-case attached. With some additional jacks and an idea to push the top of the engine back to the firewall, I was able to back the trans off a bit and get it farther from the body. With a helper looking at the alignment of the bolts, I was able to jack the t-case up and get the whole thing to rotate into position! Might be able to get a test drive in this weekend!

Hey 'bacca Good to see another from NE land. I'm not far from you, but most of my experience is pre 1995. My latest project pathy is my fourth Nissan. I find them quite addictive, especially since Nissan uses the same parts on a variety of models. Hope you enjoy it as much as I have mine. Would like to see some pics so if I'm in town and bump into you I can at least say hi. I do like the looks of the newer generations too. In fact I saw a nice looking silver R50 last night on 9th at Van Dorn headed to hwy 2. Forget what time it was around 2330 maybe. Don't feel too bad about your 3 everyone needs economy these days. I want a sentra or 200sx next. Best of luck Tim