ZombeeXXX

Ha, gotcha Sorry, I forgot to mention it was changed. Just thought i'd try to have a look see if I did a good job prior to putting her together. The crank had a little seal wear I think. Ought to have the clutch pack on and wiring ready tomorrow sometime, so will see what happens. Still got to hook up the ignition ( I think ) and make sure all the switches got put back properly and everything works... Thanks!

Thanks, B. Me too. Lost a little time because the rebuilt transmission and flywheel, etc that came with the truck ended up being sourced from a four cyl hardbody. Had to go swap for the one in storage from the other pathy. Hopefully I can find seals for it at a decent price locally... I think I have the wiring figured out, but just need to verify because I really want to run it with the tranny off to check the rear seal. So I understand this to mean that these wires set up in this fashion enables the truck to crank, however only in Neutral? I have a lot of interior assembly to do while I wait for another paycheck to buy seals and maybe a tranny jack of my very own.

What a B!tc#! Dremel cutter and carbide burrs ftw on this one. Cut it deep and caved in the side with a chisel. Then the puller popped it right out.

Well Gents, I am stuck on this; pilot converter/at pilot bushing http://www.courtesyparts.com/12330-pilot-converter-pathfinder-wd21-1987-1995-p-542929.html Tried hydraulic method and beat on her pretty good; will try again after applying some heat. I rented -and broke- the puller attachment for a slide hammer from Oreilley and it still seems siezed up. Hope they don't think I'm gonna pay for the Taiwanese garbage... Thought about taking the cutting disk and sectioning it out also... Good or bad thought? Just afraid of running into any unseen protrusion near the center of the bushing, scoring the crank. And does someone have a pic of the crank without the bushing in? Maybe a pic of the engine-facing side of the a/t bushing would even be helpful. Thanks, Tim

Ha, yeah good point, but Timing belt is more important, so might have to make do with an engineered alternative of some sort for a while. Thanks, Tim

A write up would be neat. I think I pretty much understand the mechanical aspects, and it seems straightforward swapping.. I have a flywheel and cover plate for in between. My clutch kit came with the pilot and the throwout bearing. Also ordered a rear main seal set. Have m/t bolts and all the hard clutch lines, damper, pedals, and hopefully all the ducting from the donor. My donor had over 140k miles, so I went with new operating cylinders as well. I haven't yet done anything with the automatic except wrestle it down to a cart. Wish I could get a hold of a tranny jack for a few days! Yeah, the wiring is what I need to research still... Just to override the inhibit and get reverse lights connected should be pretty simple. Just haven't looked at any diagrams yet. Should I yank the box from the passenger rear fenderwell and sell it? I assume it must be the a/t brain as the other truck didn't have it. Did break one manifold to y-pipe stud on each side... Thanks for all the tips, I'm pretty confident this will all be worthwhile.

Well, the other day the auto and most related parts came out. Today I just need to lower it and get the dash out to mount my pedals. Question is, what to do with the old tranny? BG&S in Lincoln doesn't seem too interested in it as a core. I doubt anyone here would really want to mess with it as it's missing reverse and second right now.. Hate to just take it to the jy and get $5 out of it. They only gave me $17.50 for the old shell.

With releasing the air from the rear trailer tires, we cleared the garage door by this much!

Update: The most redneck way to load a scrap heap on a trailer...

Tension/compression rod bolts not fully tightened, or bushing not fully seated? Transmission Mounts? When I put the bushings on the tension rods I had to tighten them a couple times to get it to quiet down. Does it make noise if you are in reverse and hit the brakes too? What about going over uneven terrain with the wheel turned sharply? This would make mine complain also...

On the Z's, radiator is mounted at about a 45 degree angle. If you, say, relocate the lower locating pins somewhere aft of the steering and go with shrouds and e fans it would stay pretty cool. Maybe a shorter, wider radiator? Build looks sweet btw!

It's most noticeable after several minutes under load, say, on the highway nice and warm and then you stomp on it.. But then only the people behind you really smell it.

But if you pull it from a j.y. you'll know where it goes back on the motor.

Even easier way is to time yourself between mile markers with a stopwatch. 60 mph/kph = 60 seconds per mile/kilometer. Each second over up to 5 counts as a mile/k slow. Under 60 seconds, you are speeding. Also i believe the speedo gears are color coded.

Like you see that like tube that like runs along the front upper radiator support like thing? like follow it back to the driver's side and you will see it feeds the air box. So technically you could ford over bumper deep water if you consider you will be making a wave in front by pushing it. Also consider the ECU is mounted under the passenger seat. Also the alternator hangs pretty low, about even with the frame. Keep in mind water can enter wheelbearings gearboxes and your fuel tank over time.

On several cars I have used a toothpick, thin wire, paperclip, etc. Just poke the deposits loose from the inside of the offending nozzle. IMO best, easiest, cheapest start.

http://autolumination.com/74.htm Just about everything you could need. They also offer some led alternatives.

I'd verify your valvetrain timing before you try to go much farther. If your mechanic didn't put it at #1 tdc to begin with, I'd be inclined to say he's a fool. I can't think of any other way you could be sure it goes back together properly. And yes the valves generally take the brunt of the damage. Tops of pistons can be chewed up too.

I like this idea a lot; though Z is out right now with a popped freeze plug, turbo needing refreshed, and suspension rebuilds. I just bought the donor car for that project. I think the parts z may have a spun bearing so I can't really count it, but that makes 3 runners. And my car has had it's share; it's also the first car I have had stand up to my (aggressive) driving... But a daily driver it is not. Not right now anyway.

Here's some initial shots of the body donor. http://s592.photobucket.com/albums/tt10/Zombee_XXX/Body%20donor/ She looks as if she was parked in a flooded field; mud packed in the middle of the front doorjambs, on top of the tranny and gas tank. Just a mess, but she's coming clean little by little. The more I look at and drive her, the more impressed I am. I say body donor, but more like starting from scratch because more of the little things work even with 181,000 on her. So first the insides are getting gutted and thoroughly cleaned and floorpan issues dealt with. Then truck bed liner or rubberized undercoating for the inside and out

Hello, I have recently acquired a 90 SE with a mostly burnt Automatic. I don't like autos anyway, so the plan is to convert it. I have a 92 SE as a potential organ donor. The seller also mentions having collected the parts necessary which are in storage. I assume this has been mentioned before, my apologies for potentially beating a dead horse. Difficulty level for a socket-wrench mechanic? I was surprised to not find much on this yet, but I guess it should be straightforward part swapping.. Any known writeups? Thanks for any tips.

Well a few years ago when I wasn't looking, I must've spotted 6 or more just in downtown Lincoln under 2000. But thinking about it, I rarely see one on the road anymore. We have lots of h/b running around though. I can't imagine this area is harsher than yours... Maybe a lack of demand and overall careless owners? The first owner of mine was meticulous. I have all it's records from every little squeak and rattle it went to the dealership over. The second (previous) must've jumped ditches or ran it across rows because the ...uh tension rod, I want to say was sheared off. Anyway on to the future rig... Any estimates or tips or both on preventing this time? Suggested treatments? Obviously I want to hose it out, but that never gets everything. I've heard of oil spraying; I guess that may help a bit, for a few months at a time? POR-15? And what about below the doors, crud is always trapped up in and behind...

If you push in on the surrounding cushion and compress it, the "buttons" slide out a bit and you will see a piece of string looped around from the back. Just like your couch.