Precise1

Damn, good information Bud! Keep it up... So this tells me that there is something else going on between the plates where .3mm doubles the break away, and .1mm triples it. I don't know what, but there has to be another factor as well. Yeah, I have lot of experience making manufacturing fixtures, and it is surprising how easily/much mild steel will bend under load with only moderate pressure. When you start adding hundreds of lbs of pressure... Square or rectangular tube would probably be ideal for this purpose, and you can always put a solid bar inside if it starts to bend. B

33 is O2 and 34 is knock sensor. Did you check the wiring/connection for the O2, or the voltage output? IIRC, it is 0-1 volt, with 1 being rich (cold) and 0 being lean. Make sure it changes voltage... The FSM says to check the canister purge and for air leaks for the condition of 'hesitation under normal conditions', page EC-60 of the 1995 version. Vapor lock? Try a different gas cap? B

^as the experienced have said... One thing to look at is to make sure you don't have any bulges in your soft line (clutch, you sicko!!), especially after crimping a 20 year old line. Easy to do and rules out an 'obvious' issue; you just need one to press the pedal and one to look. Have you pressed and held the clutch pedal and seen if it holds pressure? (slave cylinder doesn't back out) If it does, you have a leak or MC blow by. Be patient and methodical, slow and steady wins... B

Yes, exactly. I didn't mention it, but by all means, change everything in there and take a look at the rear main seal as well. Quite a few people have changed their clutch only to have a leaking RMS 20-30k miles later. Dedicated and wired in is quite nice, but I have a number of these. They have magnetic and hook mounts, so you can move/reposition as needed anywhere, even in your tent... B

I'm guessing throw out bearing, but they usually bark or howl. It isn't hard to change at all, the hard part is removing the transmission to get to it, mainly because you have to pull the torsion bars to do it... Some people have gotten away with dropping the crossmember with the T-bars and just scooting the tranny back enough to get in there though; you'll need to search for the threads. What you will need is a good place to work (concrete slab is recommended) and a tranny jack (or some good floor jacks with tranny adapters) and a friend to help. The tranny is quite heavy and will try to rotate to the transfer case side when unbolted so be careful and safe! B

2 lamps on at start, get super bright when revved and will have 14.1 at no load idle and go all the way to 19.3! at 4k RPM's loaded or not. From my experience, the voltage regulator is failing/has failed. The light might be on because the alty is putting out the volts, but probably not the proper amps? Anyway, change the alty and I'm sure you will be fine. Too bad you aren't local, I have a couple spares... IIRC, the Pathy alt is only 50 or 55 amps, the Maxima is 65 amps and the Quest is 90 (but I think it varies slightly depending on the year). The Maxima alty will need the pulley swapped with the Pathy one, but is plug and play otherwise and a Quest alty needs a little relief grinding and slight bracket modification, but isn't too hard. Sorry to hear about your Mom, Bud. Hopefully she will be doing better soon. Just keep at it and it should work out... B Seems my #s were off in the amp department, but these threads should help you. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33558-quest-alternator-install-in-wd21/?hl=%2Bquest+%2Balternator http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/13706-how-to-install-a-90-amp-alternator/?hl=%2Bquest+%2Balternator&do=findComment&comment=270172

I agree with RF600, that really is a bushing that sees a lot of abuse, but... since you have the material already, I'd give it a try. The Nissan factory bushing is simply rubber as well, but I have no idea what grade or the properties the two would have. I'd say if you want to go cheap, experiment and keep an eye on it, try the rubber. If you only want to do it once (for a while anyway) just go with the poly. The stock rubber doesn't hold up that well IMO. B

You just need to stop taking sleeping pills... I'm not sure what this was supposed to mean, but US Pathfinder model years 1996-2000 had the VG33 motor, 2001-2004 had the VQ35. B

Just to clarify, Rob Lacy (Alkorahil) runs an online Nissan parts department out of a dealership in Texas. Great, knowledgeable guy, great prices; his info can be found here in the Classifieds/Services section. B

Download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. P0325 is the knock sensor which is picking up an issue, generally not the cause. P0446 EVAP vent control valve, possibly linked to the tail pipe issue (I believe it is in the rear of the vehicle). Go to page EC-305 of the FSM and read up on the system and recommended diagnostics. Searching for P0446 here might give some info, and EVAP as well. Not necessarily related, but how many miles on it and when was the last time the timing belt was changed. The good news is that since it isn't your daily driver, this shouldn't be too hard to sort out in your spare time. B

Well, something is going on, so just keep an eye on it... Yes, the second adding could have just been it burping air bubbles, but I'm still curious where that first 1/2 gallon went... Cool, thanks for the explanation. I've heard of those, just never used them. B

Honestly, I'd address the idle issue first, there is no telling how that would affect the tranny's functioning. I assume you have downloaded the free FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, so EC-24 is where you want to start to chase the idle issue, and then there is another procedure on EC-50. B

Wasn't trying to Rick Roll you! I fixed the link once it posted and I saw it was wrong; had to look it up again. Sorry to make you see it again... Well, as long as it works, and I understand the tool limitation, but watch the videos. They explain how to get around it, somewhat. Just throwing it out there, more than 1/2 of what I know is because someone told me.... If you used acrylic solvent on polycarbonate, all you did was waste it. Doesn't work like that... B

Way better than nothing, but better keep an eye on the temp at first... Polycarbonate? A tip for next time, if you use acrylic and have clean edges (milled or cold sawed), you can use a bonding solvent that works amazingly well. Only used it a few times, but was amazed at the results. http://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives/tap_acrylic_cement/130 I looked at the wasps crawling in and out of the fender/door gap and thinking that this is going to be fun to pull into the garage... B

Check out theexbrit's rig if you want to see how much crap you can pile in/on a R50... B

Not sure what a block tester is, but you might want to have it pressure tested, that should tell you right away. If it was a head gasket, you would probably see an oily film on the coolant in the radiator or you would have a lot of white smoke/condensation from the tail pipe. How much low over what amount of driving? B

Thankfully, Timken is a forward thinking company that readily supplies all dimensions and information. I'm going to let you determine the difference because I have a headache... http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-29320 L68111 http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-28644 LM67010 Sorry, I have no idea which is better or if they are so close that it doesn't matter. B

I'm sorry Bud, I totally mis-stated, not sure what I was thinking... I changed the exhaust manifold, not the cats, but both cats were original and had 260K+ miles on them and still passed smog. Basically means the same thing, I guess... Congrats on getting back into a Pathy, that is always a good feeling. B

I changed a cat exhaust manifold on a 1996 R50, because it was cracked. The other one Both cats were the originals, and it still passed California smog. My recommendation is to not fix what isn't broken, but it's your car and cash... It was a bit of a PITA IIRC, mainly due to limited access. Long extensions were the key... B

Too bad that is your experience with them, it certainly doesn't sound like they tried to work with you. I wonder if there was some sort of management change... I haven't ordered too many things from Rock Auto, but only once was there a problem. I ordered an ignition cylinder for a Toyota Matrix and what I got wouldn't physically fit; there was a lug on the OD that prevented installation. We were leaving on a trip in a few days and I didn't have time to mess around, much less deal with/wait for an exchange so I ground the lug off and installed it. It still works to this day, but it was still the wrong part. I'm pretty sure I emailed them just a heads up, but do not recall any responses. B

Redundancy is good, especially with 2.3mm pins... CO_p, can you take a better, off axis (isometric) picture of it though? I get what you did, but I think it would help some people understand. Allow me to hit a few items... So the sleeves are only 1/16" (1.6mm) thick? I don't know what kind of load the sway bar is under, but I don't know the type/strength material of the sleeve. Hopefully it won't fail... "Cotter pin"? This, this, or this? 7/64 will drill a .110" hole, a bit more than the 3/32 (.094") pin. For those with anything other than fractional drills, something in the #40 or 2.5mm drill range 9.098") is a happy medium. Make sure to chamfer the holes for easy lead in... WD-40 only surpasses urine or spit as a cutting tool lubricant, but all 3 are better than nothing. Gear oil, motor oil or even household 3-in-1 oil would be far better than WD-40; just think viscous oil. Not tearing it down, but building it up. This is something I've been planning on doing, but the list before that is long... B

Fatass!! Bread is ok if it is in limited quantities and isn't enriched, bleached flour. Try a dark rye or German/French country bread... But yeah, sugar is the debil. Seems overkill when you can just drill/tap the relo kit, but it is your $. B

Undead don't sleep. Duh!! B

I think you are on the right track, but I think this might be easier and stronger. Once you have the holes drilled through the body so you can align things and mount the hinges, use a 1/8" piece of sheet steel that you roughly formed to the contour (hopefully contacting well in some places). Put them in place, mark them through the holes and install rivnuts or other captive threads into the steel. Put the steel in place and snug tight with the hinges in place. Mask off inside and epoxy around your rough backing plates, then mount carrier and torque to spec. Best of both worlds, a metal, threaded backing place that is perfectly contoured and held in place with epoxy filler, each making the other stronger. Easy to do, form the sheet steel with a hammer and anvil, it doesn't have to be pretty, just the right basic shape... B Oh, I have a bore camera, but no R50 with mount points to investigate...

Are you sure it is NEW and not a rebuilt part? Just saying, it is possible that the replacement part is faulty as well. As was said, I think the most important thing right now is to determine exactly where the leak is. B