Precise1

"Page not available" broken link or moved/deleted page... Don't you work in IT? B

Firestone alignment for all three vehicles as well, happy so far. Nice, I had one that looked like that! I think you posted some videos of it, and said something about the rear frame issues? B Oh, I fired up Little Stomper, ran him enough to recharge the battery, put air in the tires and reparked it avoid flat spots. Got to clean out the garage so I can finish some work...

Want to trade?? B

Cheap fix, might be rear sway bushings as well. Mechanically, it should run a lot longer, so check for rust and take a look at the tranny fluid (assuming AT). B

Removing the cat won't give you much more power, and might make you lose some low end torque. It is also illegal and might make your Pathy worth less/harder to sell down the line. My recommendation is that you have a Magnaflow 'high flow' cat installed; 2" is the largest legally for California (unless something has changed) and is what I have. I'm certain that it is not restrictive... My set up is a stock VG30E with Thorley headers, 2" Magnaflow cat, 2.25" piping (more than enough) into a Flowmaster Delta 60. Sounds good without being too loud but is raspy at higher RPM, I think there is something not secured properly. One more thing I have to do... B

"Not much power" would be about 100hp fresh from the factory for the North American variant, at least in my 1984 D720. He did say that his has been converted to single spark, but I can't imagine why. The exhaust plugs do nothing related to power, they are for reducing unburnt hydrocarbons. The solid state electronic thingie in the dizzy failed on mine so the exhaust plugs weren't firing, and you couldn't tell any difference driving it. Sorry taylorhayis, I never had to replace anything on the engine for the 10 years I had it, so I'm no help there. I did run across this... So it sounds like your motor set up is factory. Number of plugs shouldn't affect the water pump though, so it should be the same part spanning a few years. B

No, actually, you need to go solar/electric and not look back. Keep the Pathy as well to supplement the golf cart though! Congrats on the purchase and I wish you the best of luck. That is a dream I can't realize here... B

I agree, it is tempting... Not for that price though!! Exactly! Go ahead and thank our 'law makers' for sheltering our own auto makers... who then needed a bail out (free cash) as well. *chews on leather* B

Sorry, but there is no quick fix for this, especially over the Net. Just go by the manual and test criteria, it is what a mechanic would do. If you get stuck. let us know, we'll try to walk you through it. B

Good Post! Testing/following the manual is always my place to start, especially when something doesn't follow 'common sense'. The 'runs fine until warm' part is a flag to me that there is a sensor/condition that is bad when the computer reaches closed loop (warm running conditions). Is there no check engine light? B

A good way to check out squeaks and groans, especially around bushings, is to spray bushings with WD-40. It won't hurt anything, won't last very long either. Spray suspected joints 1 at a time to isolate the cause and then clean/grease/replace as appropriate. Oh, I had a set of these on my first WD21 and thought they were fairly good (others do as well), especially for the $100 I paid way back when. If it is not an emergency, wait for a sale, of course. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspensions-Shocks/4-Pro-Comp-ES3000-Shocks-with-4-Black-Shock-Boots.aspx?t_c=1&t_s=90&t_pt=3306&t_pn=S%2FDShockingES3000 I'm sure there are threads here on shocks but don't have time to search for them now. B

If it is oozing at night (parked), I'd guess that it is coming from the lower part of the engine where the oil pools so make sure to check the oil pan as well. As was said, there is little substitute to getting under there and wiping things down. Oh, IIRC the VQ35 have an oil cooler that is prone to leaking as well... I'm moving this thread to the R50 section. B

Better than a Honda Accord... That'll get you more places than you think... B

Welcome to NPORA Charles. First, go to the Garage section and into the pinned FSM thread to download your free copy of the manual. Ok, so this happened before the motor replacement, so we can safely assume this is electrical/sensor, not motor mechanical and probably not fuel either. Go to page 255 of the manual and follow the trouble shooting instructions that pertain, that is what I would do. Obviously keep us informed of progress and ask any questions you might have. I'm wondering if it might not be the ECU itself, since it changes running parameters at 3000 rpm, which is were limp mode would kick in with certain faults. Anyway, no real way to be sure without you or someone trustworthy/competent checking off most of that list; I'm opposed to throwing parts at a problem... As for the dealership, I have no idea what they did or didn't check/replace, and at this point it would be best to verify previous findings anyway. B

I like the look as well (minus the nosedive). Don't feel bad about having to go back to leveling it. It is pretty hard to nail it the first time as there are a lot of factors and choices... B

For me, if money isn't critical and I plan to keep the vehicle for a long time, I rely on it, there is nothing else major suspected to be wrong with it, I would change what is in bold. The reason being, is that if I do all this, it should last another 105k miles without me touching it. That is worth $500 and a weekend in my world... The fan clutch doesn't have to be changed, but if it fails and is replaced, there is a possibility that the change in balance could prematurely wear the water pump bushing, causing it to fail before the next timing belt interval. I do recommend changing it, but some might argue the point. Hose water, small hose are some weird parts misnomers and the crank shaft pulley doesn not need replacing unless it is damaged somehow (would be obvious) I don't know where you are, but check out Alkorahil in the Services section, he may be able to ship it all to your door for cheaper than you think... B

The sound you describe is like tire rub in the front, but I can't diagnose sounds on the internet... Check to see if it has been unplugged, taped over, etc, because you definitely want a heads up light if something malfunctions. Sorry, the second O2 sensor that is after the catalytic converter. The oil on top of the plug is probably fron the valve cover gasket. Start by trying to tighten the screws by hand, and snug, don't torque. Do you have a code reader? Clear the codes with it, and see if they come back... B

There is a window of 10 minutes (IIRC) for editing, and after that it locks. Some people abused the open editing privilege to the point that we had to limit it. Sorry, but there is good reason for it. Yes, the 2001-2004 have the VQ35 not the VG33 to which the timing belt info stated is accurate. It happens... To the OP, if you haven't already, download a copy of the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Those codes are for the IVT control (Intake Valve Timing?), and one of the first things they mention is connections or harness, so check that as well as you can first. The fact that you can shut the vehicle off and it goes away tells me it is an electronic issue rather than a mechanical/hydraulic, so that is the direction I would look first. Besides, it is far cheaper and easier than the next steps... B

Step one would be to download the 1996 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, that will give you a good description of the crank sensor (in the dizzy IIRC). For the cylinder misfire, unhook the harness on the injector and check the resistance between the two contacts, it should be 10-14 ohms cold. if it is way off, odds are that the injector needs replacing. For the O2 sensor, (the downstream one on the passenger side IIRC, but verify this with the FSM), follow the wire to the connector, open it up and make sure it is clean and proper, then test the voltage both cold and hot. It should read between 0-1 volts, 0 being lean (and cold IIRC), 1 being rich. Also, the value should change between hot and cold conditions. If it fails any of those, it probably needs replacing (probably does anyway due to the code, but can't hurt to check and understand). Was there no check engine light on when you took it for inspection? B

The pre-cat are in the rear of the exhaust manifolds, you can see them under the hood near the firewall, and the post-cat ones are under the car before the two pipes merge. I do not recall the exact placement, but they should be easy to spot. How do you know it is loose without knowing where it is? B

One more time, because it is that important... Yeesh, I can tell what side was south facing when that thing sat! Doesn't change it's reliability though... I'd do a basic tune up and change all fluids to set a maintenence schedule, at least items that you don't know when they have been changed. The fact that most of the miles are tow miles confuses the basic maint schedule, so you have to start somewhere. Then drive it! B Oh, change the vehicle year in your account description or it might cause confusion...

I really can't fathom swapping a motor, especially one that is arguably lesser, in order to hope for a few MPGs. That is $40, weighs 35lbs full and should extend your range by 50 miles minimum. Already have one? Get another... Simply put, the Pathfinder is a heavy little beast (you might be at 4,500lbs curb weight) with a small motor and numerically high gear ratio. It is hard to improve mileage substantially in the face of this. B

Well, you have 4, pre and post cat on both sides. No it isn't normal for them to come loose, the standard complaint is that they are a pain to remove... B

Congrats on the new Pathy! It will be interesting to see what you do with this one... If you want to share it, you can always post a link to a hosted photo so everyone can see without some sort of alternate site permissions to deal with. B

Check the strut tower for rust, it may be compromised. Anything 1.5" is major and should be easy to spot by looking around. B