Precise1

So do I! If you don't have an OBD2, go to an autoparts store and have them scan you car for fault codes... I'm wondering if your CEL isn't burned out. You can always buy one of these transmitter and download InCarDoc or somesuch app for your phone so you always have some onboard diagnostics. With that that bad mileage you should be blowing black smoke or leaving a trail of gas around town. Any info on vehicle mods such as rims/tires and such? B

Yes. I've since gotten an electronics education (trade level), so that actually makes sense to me. Good job, and good timing. B

Do you mean "brand new" or "been under my patio for years" new? Just asking for a friend... B

04Pfinder, I really wasn't trying to shut you down by telling you to search, and yes, there is such a thing as TMI sometimes! I think maybe you will get more input with more specific questions like "Is this part number the right one for a 2004, I've seen different numbers posted in these threads" type thing. The less homework you make people do will generally get better results... human nature. R50JR, I was simply saying that I recall a discussion about this, and that several people seemed to have issues. Poor installation... a bad batch... these things can happen. Hell, I didn't even have an R50 back then, give me credit for even remembering it 15+ years later. Let me say that I still appreciate the enthusiasm for Pathfinders, and I've obviously done my part here on NPORA. I currently own 3 pathfinders, a 91, a 95 and a 99. My wish is to convert the 91 into a front wheeled drive electric vehicle based on a Nissan Leaf drive train (150hp/180ft/lb stock VS 110hp/210ft/lb EV) that would mainly be used for around the county, the 99 will probably be sold soon (too damn many vehicles), and the 95 I'll keep until it is my coffin. Keep it up guys (and gals), they don't make them like this anymore! B

Not really... with a choice of front- or all-wheel drive. It only has a smidge over 7 inches of ground clearance, there's no two-speed transfer case What's to talk about? It is a crossover... the only thing it has going for it is that it doesn't look like a minivan anymore... so now it is lying. It reminds me of when a former co-worker was telling me how great his SUV, a Toyota Highlander, was. I told him that SUV stands for "Sport Utility Vehicle", and that he had no "Sport", no "Utility" just a "Vehicle". Granted, it might be a good "Vehicle", but is definitely isn't a SUV... Kinda like how calling a new Dodge Ram a "Power Wagon" is an insult to a real Power Wagon. B

I had the Z24 in a 1984 D720 Kingcab 4x4 with 31" tires, and while that was a wonderfully reliable motor and set up, I do not miss the 4th gear blues up every significant hill. A VG30 or VG33 shoe horned into it would have been awesome!

All the weight of a full sized truck. All the gas mileage of a full sized tuck. None of the power of a full sized truck. Knowing you have one of the most reliable vehicles around. Knowing no one knows what it is unless they have owned one. Knowing passengers won't climb into the back unless you tell them where the door handles are. Being part of NPORA. B

Someone... MY1PATH?... talked about buying some window trim that was either "generic" by the length or from another auto maker that fit well. All I can do is recommend searching for it. As for the original, that doesn't exist as far as I know. Trust me, I need some badly too... B

I seem to recall there was an issue with failure of the strut bearing from a particular manufacturer... I want to say KYB, but please look it up. It was a long thread on this site. I could fit 31x10.5 on steel 8" rims (3.5" backspace?) on my stock and sagging 1999 that only rubbed while turning in reverse, so that should be a non issue, especially with a lift. 32's should work as well, but aren't as common as some of the metric sizes. I think you should ask what you are wanting it set up for... daily driving, expedition style exploring, mudding, etc and go at it from that direction. I bought MileMarker hubs for the 1999 for $100 on sale (that jeep store) and have never locked them. What they did do was give me 2 mpg more on the freeway, which paid for them... 42,000/20= 2,100 gal 42,000/18= 2,333 gal 233 gal x $3.00/gal = $699 You get the point... and I didn't wear out the front CVs... it's a no brainer. As for specific part numbers, please search, and there should be pinned threads in the header of each model section. I don't want to be rude, but the info is all there...;) B

I have not done this, nor do I recall, but there are some very specific threads on it that MAY have the info? Check out Mr510's VG3.4 build, that may have it or lead to it. Best I got, hope it helps... B

Put it all in a shipping container and send it to my house. I'll pay postage... B

I have a buzz in my '99 that happens between 1,200ish to 1,800ish. I haven't looked and just ignore it when I can't WOT and then just idle... (Yes, I an certain it is from the exhaust) B

This is where the fun starts... the "stock" center link stresses joints by rotating under load IIRC. It generally means that it will be in the alignment bay a lot if used hard... probably the weakest part of the entire design. An idler arm brace will help some, but either aftermarket replacements or being careful is the best bet to avoid disappointment. B

No wonder I didn't recognize you! Musta been the place around the corner... Boy, this just got awkward! B

Got it, and sorry, I somehow missed that the Yeti 100 was a "stand alone" system that you mounted, rather than just a solar panel. I also forgot to mention the cost of a solar charge controller in my previous post, but that's the cheapest component... around $50-100, depending. Yes, the batteries will help, but systems are a balance of input and output, I've found. Rarely have I ever set up a system and discovered that I had too much solar wattage... Especially since conditions are so often not ideal, I've found overspecing the panels pays off in the long run, especially with lead acid batteries. They don't like deep discharges, and have memories so a complete charge every use cycle is important of you want them to last. And of course the batteries are the easiest component to add to the system, but you know all this. It's amazing to me that more people don't utilize solar power, both stationary and mobile platforms. With a little bit of planning, it can replace a generator for casual use at least. I had emergency power at home when fires/PGE cut the power locally. People couldn't easily get gas for their generators, but my fridge/freezer kept running and I had plenty extra for lights and charging electronics from just a 400W system.

I've delved into solar a bit... I have a Harbor Fright unit on my greenhouse (used that as a starting/learner kit), then set up a 400 watt off grid system with 5kW battery storage for emergency power (it also runs the fridge and freezer in my garage), I have small 40 watt panels on my kayak (40lb thrust trolling motor) that I have removed and started to make a folding/portable array for camping/emergencies with. I'm not saying I know all things solar, but I am familiar with small systems. If I were to make a roof mount set up for a Pathy, I'd probably use these 100W semi-flex solar panels, 1 or 2 of these sealed AGM deep cycle batteries into a power inverter with a "cigarette lighter" aka "power port" adapter for 12v power. A 100W, 35Ahr 12v port system would be under $250 and a 200W, 70Ahr system with a 400 watt inverter would be under $500. I'd mount the panels on a wooden base with a provision to be able to prop it up to catch the sun, or even be easily removable so you can better track the sun when stationary. *I used the dimensions from a 1999 R50 roof rack (40"x50" usable space). B

I've installed a couple of sets of the air bags with fair success, and I suspect they might be sufficient for your issue, as long as you aren't doing any serious wheeling anyway. They are fairly hardy and definitely the cheapest/easiest option. Being able to adjust them is a nice benefit as well. If you are leery of using them, I would simply go with heavier rated springs (shocks don't really address the issue), and be prepared to install some spacers if the springs themselves aren't enough. It's basically depends on your comfort/budget factor.

Damn, I said we needed new Mods many years ago, and you are just now getting around to it? Congrats mjotrainbrain, and welcome aboard. I used to serve the coffee around here occasionally a while back... B

Hello, and welcome! Assuming all the other brake components are in good order and the brakes are properly bled, if your stopping ability is poor, check to make you don't have a vacuum leak, that the vacuum booster is working properly, and that your master cylinder isn't leaking. Otherwise, these should stop as well as any other 2 ton 4x4. Agreed, and I seem to recall a few people doing so, for the simplicity and parts availability. I've considered the rear disk swap, but have decided against it for exactly the same reason. Properly supported, it would be the ideal set up, but... B

Without being a wisebutt, it will be the 1 part that you really need... In reality, the soft parts (seals, liners, boots, etc) are getting scarce and generally made anymore. I recall someone using a window seal from a different vehicle that fit very well, let me get back to you on that. I have a 91 with the 4x4 shifter cover, so if Adam's isn't acceptable, hit me up. Quite frankly, I have no interest in sunroofs or switching to rear disk for the reasons you mentioned. Neat and all, but more trouble than it is worth on these AFAIC. YMMV. B

Yeah, I'll give them an "option" to see a "package" alright... Interesting... A friend of mine bought one of the newer Challengers when they first came out, and it just came with a can of fix-a-flat, since it has different sized tires front and rear. Yeah, that's neat and all, but screw that! Things happen on the road, and towing isn't always just down the street waiting for a call. B

Welcome back! Just wandered back in myself. Seems I have these 3 pathfinders that I should do something about... B

Hopefully he used the slowly expanding kind so he didn't crack the dash? B

Have you checked the ECU for codes? Check to make sure the TPS is responding right (be sure to jiggle the wiring harness/connector, when it is running, of course) This might sound crazy, but I had a '95 manual that started to stumble/bog when shifting 1-2 and then 2-3 also. It would pick right back up and run fine again. Check the dizzy cap... mine had completely burned out the center contact and 1/2 the spring, so the spark was just arcing from the top of the cap down to the rotor. Had to prove it to the Autozone boys... showed them the inside of the cap, snapped it on, fired it up and hauled ass around the building for them. They basically crapped themselves... Anyway, check the cap, it takes 1 minute.

It's rated pressure is 60psi, and it has 50psi in it right now, almost 6 months after I took it out. Oh, and the size is 135/70/16. A folded spare... that sounds very... German. Does it have a limited rating, or is it just as good as a non-folding tire? (doubtful) Nice that the space for it is the same, but that just means they cheaped out... I recommend doing what I did... just buy a new steelie and go to your local tire shop and see what's in the used tire pile. The spare for my wife is a better tire with more tread than the current Kumhos.