Precise1

Exhaust? It still shouldn't be leaking seafoam, just exhaust gasses and sucking air... Obviously fix that first before chasing other things. Sounds like the alternator is failing, or you just need to upgrayedd to a Maxima or Quest alternator. B

Compression check would be the step after what K9 said. If some cylinders have no/low compression, you might have valve/piston damage. If all cylinders have no/low compression, you probably have something off in the timing department and you need to figure that out. I'm assuming your ignition timing is correct, you checked for spark and are getting fuel? B

Both RedPath88 and MY1PATH repaired theirs by cutting in a new keyway 180 degrees off, IIRC. Both still work fine...

Pretty much nothing, as far as I can tell. They did their 93-94 change ('upgrayedd'), left it alone and worked on the R50. One of the few things that floats to the surface of my febrile mind is that either the '94 or '95 rear LSD diff had the greatest break away force of any H233b. Can't recall the numbers but I know they are here, somewhere... Otherwise, good to go with all parts that I can think of. B '95 FTW

Agreed, for that price it should be pristine and probably lower mileage, BUT I don't know what the local market/availability is like either. They are dime-a-dozen out here, rust free. Going to have to make a call on it... B

Good info above, especially about checking the terminals and ground contact, and the electrical nature of the problem. Do you see any corrosion on any of the contacts, fuses, relays under the hood or in the cab? Have you checked the wires for the alternator, both contact and wire integrity? B

This information is correct, about mid 1993* there was another hated, random Nissan change. *there have been exceptions Best bet is to loosen one of the top timing belt covers and have a peek. It can be done without harming anything if you are patient and have a tool or two. I believe the LH (US drivers) side is the easier, and flashlight/mirror is highly advised. As for the best place for Canadian parts, 5 miles from the US border or talk to Rob Lacy (Alkorahil) at the dealership in Texas (yes, Texas). He'll ship you everything you need at the best prices available. (contact info in the Classifieds section) B

Again, you are welcome. Everything still working good? B

You are welcome. Our throttle used to be sticky shut, usually cold weather, and once I cleaned the throttle plate it basically went away. Something to consider... B

Might want to put this in the Regional Areas section as well. Otherwise, have fun! B

Sorry Bud, too far away, and you'd have to come to me, not the other way around. Have you posted this in the Regional Areas section? You might get more bites... B

Ok, time to wrap this up (I finally remembered when it wasn't raining). The gap on the throttle stop (when cold) was somewhere between .044-.048" (1.1-1.2mm). It was a little hard to tell exactly, because I had to double up feeler gauges and there isn't much room to work. I don't know what you mean by throttle opener, but this is what my set up looks like. I can take any other pictures or measurements that you might need, but I think this should put you in the right proximity... B

Throttle opener? I'll take a picture or two at the same time to post my configuration. B

You are welcome, sorry for the initial confusion. I'll get the last bit of data, the cold gap from stop to end of screw tomorrow morning when I have light and it isn't raining... B

Well, the throttle stop most definitely contacts while hot, running or not so I measured the distance that the screw protrudes. .100" or 2.5mm or just on the minum side of that; I had to eyeball it with a machinist's rule since I couldn't get caliper jaws in there. The last bit of info, mostly for reference is the gap when cold, I'll try to get that today. I'm wondering if getting voltage readings from the TSP hot and cold would tell anything, or even vacuum, but then there are so many things that go on with vacuum when cold, it might be meaningless even if there is a difference... B

Me. B

One thing that can be helpful (and cheap and easy) before you start chasing things, is check the ECU for stored trouble codes. Sometimes it can point you to a faulty component. There is a good write up in the Garage/How To section. And significant loss of vacuum anywhere is a problem so it is hard to just say "replace line X", not to mention the stalling could be due to other things. It probably can't hurt to change the lines regardless; 20 year old rubber lines aren't always in good shape. B I see we have been here before. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41312-pathfinder-jiffy-lube-not-good/?p=770740 Did you check the ECU as suggested then?

Yes, to bench bleeding the MC, it does sound like there is a considerable air bubble, and can make it act like you describe. The slave cylinder presses against a fork that goes through the bell housing, and pushes on the throw out bearing/pressure plate to disengage the clutch. Are you certain the slave cylinder is exactly the same with the same distance of throw/travel from the mounting bolt holes. Hopefully you ccan compare it to the old part (I never throw away old parts until I know everything is working properly). Without doing anything else, if you crack the bleeding nipple on the SS, does any fluid come out, like there is some residual pressure? Does the slave cylinder relax or retract? Most importantly, once you have done, this is there a little play in that fork pivot, like it isn't under load? Also don't drive it like this unless you want to risk glazing the flywheel and clutch plate. B

OK, I got a chance to go out and look, and I get it now, sorry for the previous confusion. 3 different adjustment screws... Anyway, it is the one on the top left of that whole system, and mine is secured with a lock nut and painted red. First, how much did he turn it? Is it possible to just try to get the paint to line up again and determining the depth of the screw by and residual paint/no paint on the root of the threads? Second, I've checked nine on a 1999.0 off and running, even operating the throttle, and the screw isn't even in contact with the stop by about .7-.8mm. I will double check this at hot off and running conditions tomorrow when I drive it. I can get accurate measurements for the gap rather than a guesstimate and for a lack of anything else, you just set yours there and see... Just let me know... B

Damn, you Canadians get ripped off a lot! $2.50 per plug for NGK standard $3.00 per plug for NGK V Power $3.50 per plug for NGK G Power So yeah, I'm way off. It's $3 more for G power over V power, yo! I figure since they get changed every 60k miles or whatever, spark plugs aren't a pricey component, much less the little cost difference in grades. Last time I bought plugs, the person asked me if I wanted Champion plugs and I told him no, I needed plugs for a Nissan, not a lawnmower... B

Hard to say, but sounds like a possible fuel issue as well; the fuel lines are right there on the frame by the filter. Not sure what they could have done, but never underestimate the power of stupidity. A definite yes to check the vacuum lines as well. Also, it can't hurt to check the ECU for stored codes, sometimes that can pinpoint things. Like others, I do 98% of my own work because of problems (and outright lies) in the past. I once took my D720 in for an oil change just before a smog test, and the tech actually disconnected the lead to the alternator, so the vehicle wasn't charging. I caught it within a few miles because it had a volt meter gauge, reconnected it and drove back. Funny thing was that I told the owner, showed him on the vehicle when he said "The tech wasn't anywhere near the alternator" since you have to reach right past it, and the whole time he was denying it even though I told him I didn't want anything, I just wanted him to make sure his techs were more careful because it would strand most people. Well, the business was gone within a year... B

LOL That about covers it... I go with the G power, they are supposed to last a little longer, stay cleaner and help with emissions. Not sure if that is actually true, but I can afford the extra $5-8 it costs for a set, so... B

OK. Not sure what Crapatalk has to do with it, but whatever. So, page EC-34 has an adjustment procedure for the FIC (Fast Idle Cam) in the 1998 FSM. I'd download the 2000 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, look that up, and follow it. Seems pretty straight forward... B

Well, if you displayed what year/model you had, that would help us answer the question... (hint, fill out your profile/description info) B

Thanks for the heads up, Rob is a great guy and a valuable asset to NPORA... B