Precise1

Throttle opener? I'll take a picture or two at the same time to post my configuration. B

You are welcome, sorry for the initial confusion. I'll get the last bit of data, the cold gap from stop to end of screw tomorrow morning when I have light and it isn't raining... B

Well, the throttle stop most definitely contacts while hot, running or not so I measured the distance that the screw protrudes. .100" or 2.5mm or just on the minum side of that; I had to eyeball it with a machinist's rule since I couldn't get caliper jaws in there. The last bit of info, mostly for reference is the gap when cold, I'll try to get that today. I'm wondering if getting voltage readings from the TSP hot and cold would tell anything, or even vacuum, but then there are so many things that go on with vacuum when cold, it might be meaningless even if there is a difference... B

Me. B

One thing that can be helpful (and cheap and easy) before you start chasing things, is check the ECU for stored trouble codes. Sometimes it can point you to a faulty component. There is a good write up in the Garage/How To section. And significant loss of vacuum anywhere is a problem so it is hard to just say "replace line X", not to mention the stalling could be due to other things. It probably can't hurt to change the lines regardless; 20 year old rubber lines aren't always in good shape. B I see we have been here before. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41312-pathfinder-jiffy-lube-not-good/?p=770740 Did you check the ECU as suggested then?

When you are constantly going out to the driveway to look at a component or take a measurement to answer someone's questions on NPORA! B

Yes, to bench bleeding the MC, it does sound like there is a considerable air bubble, and can make it act like you describe. The slave cylinder presses against a fork that goes through the bell housing, and pushes on the throw out bearing/pressure plate to disengage the clutch. Are you certain the slave cylinder is exactly the same with the same distance of throw/travel from the mounting bolt holes. Hopefully you ccan compare it to the old part (I never throw away old parts until I know everything is working properly). Without doing anything else, if you crack the bleeding nipple on the SS, does any fluid come out, like there is some residual pressure? Does the slave cylinder relax or retract? Most importantly, once you have done, this is there a little play in that fork pivot, like it isn't under load? Also don't drive it like this unless you want to risk glazing the flywheel and clutch plate. B

OK, I got a chance to go out and look, and I get it now, sorry for the previous confusion. 3 different adjustment screws... Anyway, it is the one on the top left of that whole system, and mine is secured with a lock nut and painted red. First, how much did he turn it? Is it possible to just try to get the paint to line up again and determining the depth of the screw by and residual paint/no paint on the root of the threads? Second, I've checked nine on a 1999.0 off and running, even operating the throttle, and the screw isn't even in contact with the stop by about .7-.8mm. I will double check this at hot off and running conditions tomorrow when I drive it. I can get accurate measurements for the gap rather than a guesstimate and for a lack of anything else, you just set yours there and see... Just let me know... B

Damn, you Canadians get ripped off a lot! $2.50 per plug for NGK standard $3.00 per plug for NGK V Power $3.50 per plug for NGK G Power So yeah, I'm way off. It's $3 more for G power over V power, yo! I figure since they get changed every 60k miles or whatever, spark plugs aren't a pricey component, much less the little cost difference in grades. Last time I bought plugs, the person asked me if I wanted Champion plugs and I told him no, I needed plugs for a Nissan, not a lawnmower... B

Hard to say, but sounds like a possible fuel issue as well; the fuel lines are right there on the frame by the filter. Not sure what they could have done, but never underestimate the power of stupidity. A definite yes to check the vacuum lines as well. Also, it can't hurt to check the ECU for stored codes, sometimes that can pinpoint things. Like others, I do 98% of my own work because of problems (and outright lies) in the past. I once took my D720 in for an oil change just before a smog test, and the tech actually disconnected the lead to the alternator, so the vehicle wasn't charging. I caught it within a few miles because it had a volt meter gauge, reconnected it and drove back. Funny thing was that I told the owner, showed him on the vehicle when he said "The tech wasn't anywhere near the alternator" since you have to reach right past it, and the whole time he was denying it even though I told him I didn't want anything, I just wanted him to make sure his techs were more careful because it would strand most people. Well, the business was gone within a year... B

LOL That about covers it... I go with the G power, they are supposed to last a little longer, stay cleaner and help with emissions. Not sure if that is actually true, but I can afford the extra $5-8 it costs for a set, so... B

OK. Not sure what Crapatalk has to do with it, but whatever. So, page EC-34 has an adjustment procedure for the FIC (Fast Idle Cam) in the 1998 FSM. I'd download the 2000 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, look that up, and follow it. Seems pretty straight forward... B

Well, if you displayed what year/model you had, that would help us answer the question... (hint, fill out your profile/description info) B

Thanks for the heads up, Rob is a great guy and a valuable asset to NPORA... B

Welcome Bud! Yeah, the R50s have proven themselves to be a good compliment to the venerable WD21s, so congrats! I recommend starting out in the R50 FAQ section and doing some reading... B

Damn, sounds like a harsh lesson, but then I think you have the right attitude. Sometimes you just have to stand back and say "Well, that didn't work!" (admit failure) to learn from it. As for people you thought were your friends, don't feel alone; been there myself... Anyway, welcome back and you might find some good info (share some as well) in the Hardcore Custom Fab section. B

Considering a fairly straight body, no rust (I'm assuming) and that you should get another 100k miles at least, I'd say that was reasonable. Once you get things sorted out, I'm sure you'll like it... Yeah, who knows... I had a locksmith come out and make me a new key to a car once; he did it by putting a blank into the drivers side door, jiggling it, looking at the printing on the metal, and filing it. Took him about 20 minutes, but it worked in every lock. Pretty neat, and after watching him, I think I understand how to do it. Never been that bored though... Glad you took care of the T-belt right away, too many people ignore it. Did Rock Auto send you the wrong parts or did you order the wrong parts? That sucks regardless, I hate being into a job and not have what I need. Can you provide a link to that '93 FSM? I'm sure a lot of people would be interested; '94 has been the earliest free, digital version available so far... B

Welcome back Bud, and I'm getting a kick out of the Civic Recreational Vehicle! B

Welcome Squizz! Do you have a picture of your 'new' Pathfinder? I'm not sure what a 2005 Pathfinder is in Australia... B

Welcome to NPORA! The Pathfinders have made quite a name for themselves over the years, so I'm sure you'll be happy with yours... B

Welcome Yannic, and congrats on having such a nice car at 22 years old! Don't worry about your English skills, it is far better than my French... B

Welcome, and wow, someone beat the tar out of that poor Pathfinder! I hope you got a good deal on it... Maybe someone changed the ignition lock so the key for the doors and ignition are completely different? Did the locksmith actually try making a key just for the drivers side lock? FYI, someone is parting out a 1995 in Sacramento, maybe you can get the full set of locks/ignition from him? Maybe some other parts as well? There are some differences between the '93 and the '95 (mainly trim/interior) but most parts should be the same; double check compatibility with a parts web site like Rock Auto, Autozone, etc. There is a good thread on the timing belt in the Garage/How To section. Can't miss it... Download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Not all the wiring will be the same (as stated above), but things like door regulators, etc should be. I'm not sure, search for it. I'm not help, I hate interior work because I'm the 'destroy all the clips' guy... B

Welcome to NPORA Bud! Your best bet would probably be local junk yards/U-pull-it places. A lot of pathfinders came with what you are talking about, but be warned, we call them damage amplifiers. They are only really mounted from underneath, so in an accident, they tend to fold back and take out the entire grill, headlights, hood, etc. Under normal use, they do work fine though, so you might want to look into some bracing modifications... Oh, look in the classifieds section here, there might be someone nearby parting out a Pathfinder... B

Get a hold of Alkorahil (aka Rob Lacy), he runs an online dealership parts department out of Texas, knows his stuff, and has just about the best prices you can find for factory Nissan parts. Talk to him and it'll all show up in one big box... Contact info is in the Classifieds/Services section towards the bottom of the main forum page, and tell him NPORA says Hi! B

^THIS Had a co-worker call his Toyota Highlander a SUV. He got a little upset when I told him there was no S or U in his V, he just had a V... You know you drive a Pathfinder when you have both kinds in the driveway, WD21 and R50... B