Precise1

Are you a wizard necromancer? Just teasing you... the last post in this thread is more than 10 years old so there might not be any reply. B

Ok, to the motor doesn't turn over. Is there a little clicking noise, or silence? One click? What is happening is that the starter (solenoid) is either failing (ed) or it isn't getting enough (or any) power. This is the heaviest draw on the electrical system, hence those big, thick cables... Simply put, it could be a lot of things and electrical is often problematic, so this might be hard to explain to a novice. First things I would check/have checked if this were my vehicle: Battery/chassis/motor ground (negative) strap connections at all points (free and easy) Fusible link directly off of the positive battery terminal (cheap and easy) Starter relay (easy to check) Positive cable condition and connection at starter (easy). Those should tell you if the power from the battery is making it to the starter, that is step one... There is a Factory Service Manual available for free download in a pinned thread in the Garage section. This might help you or whoever is going to help you with the vehicle. B

I appreciate the enthusiasm, but do you know you are replying to a question asked 7.5 years ago? B

Interesting! I was going to mention Kroil, but I have never heard of ATF/Acetone mix so I didn't want to muddy the waters. I'll have to try that.. Where did you get your information? I never knew there was such a difference between Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster, I always considered them interchangeable. It might not help you now, but perhaps it will in the future. Check out MSC Industrial Supply. http://www.mscdirect.com/ If they don't have it, you probably don't need it; their prices are decent and shipping ground if they have a warehouse in the area (a state or two) will take a day or two. Think of them as the Amazon of Industrial... B

For $3k I'd check it out! Yank the chain gun and replace the rims and tires... Much potential! B

Looks delicious! B

Meh, some bunnies can handle themselves... B

Yes, no real changes between those year motors. All 1990-1995 VG30s are pretty much interchangeable, but the later years do have a different ECU specification, timing belt components, injector patterns, etc. More for smog type stuff AFAIK... I have no idea. If you can get a list of what is in the kit (number, length, size of the bolts) you should be able to compare it to the WD21 kit (listed at 4x4parts.com I believe, maybe both?) to make sure the bolts are the same. The blocks are just blocks... B

Click on the banner in his signature, it will take you to his web site. Different prices for different heights... B

Unfortunately, it looks like it... (aluminum beavers raped your rims) B

Can't tell from here... As a machinist, I wonder what he would be doing those last 2-3 hours. I'd say .5 hours to figure out the first piece mounting, and .25 hours for each rim after that. He totally overestimated the work/time... A mill with a boring head or rotary table would work also. B

As was stated, it depends on the usage. Which are you asking about? When you depart from the 15" rim, you generally leave the high flotation sizes behind... B

Good to know. What filter do you use? B

1) Sorry, beyond my experience to verify. B

Well, I don't think it will hurt it, as long as you live in warmer climes at least. It might be a bit thick for snow country... I used 80w-90 in mine with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer and on cold mornings (near/or freezing), first/second gear was a bit stiff to engage for the first mile or two. YMMV B

From what you said, do it... Good luck! B

Sounds like it has been handled well so far... 1) Those bearings/seals should be checked when the tranny is being rebuilt, or simply replaced as part of a kit on principle... 2) When you do the timing belt (105k mile interval for your year) there are other things you can change as well. Since it is over 100k miles, I tend to change everything... cam seals crank seal timing belt tensioner thermostat bypass hose water pump fan clutch Basically, I don't want to touch anything there until the next timing belt change. IIRC, parts for everything cost me under $400 via Alkorahil 3) I just went with the stock Nissan clutch. They last about 150k miles with normal use and are made by Exedy. B

Are you asking what parts they have in common/can be interchanged? If so... All suspension, drive train, exhaust, transmission, motors and most gross components like starters, alternators, etc. What is going to be different is the trim, dash, some electronic and mechanical components like ECU, injectors, timing belt, tie rod ends, etc. What are you hoping to do? B

Well, AFAIK you will have to change the motor, tranny, wiring harness, all under hood components, ecu, etc. That's a lot of work... Maybe I'm missing something, but why not just drive the 1994? It sounds superior in every way... Even if you want to keep the 88, just have the motor rebuilt (or do it yourself). When both are running, you can reassess which to sell, if any. I'm certain either way you won't be losing any $... (wish I had a dual fuel set up) B

Bah, the only difference between a SE and XE is leather seats and the adjustable shocks, everything else can come on a XE or be swapped in.easily. 240k is definitely getting on in mileage, but over 500k is the record that I have seen (without major engine work) so it isn't dead yet by a long shot! Shifting issues might not mean the tranny is toast, so I'd at least check it out. If everything else is solid, $1k isn't much to risk. Can you buy any local wrecked WD21s for engines or trannys? It really comes down to what it's value is to you, and if you know the rest of the vehicle is solid. A different one might have hidden issues... B

It won't damage the tires that fast, if at all. I put about 30+k miles on my first pathfinder, and they were mounted and somewhat used when I bought it, so figure 40-50k miles on them. When I got rid of it, the tires weren't quite down to the wear bars and the wear was close to even, maybe only a little more in the center. I'm not sure what happens when you air down though... B They are the tires in my sig picture...

I'm certain he is talking about the rim width... I want to say the stock chromies (that came with 235/75/15) are 6" wide and the alloy 'legos' that came on the SE with 31x10.5" tires are 7" wide. Those numbers can be verified by searching around this site. I had 31" BFG A/T on my first Pathy with the chromies, but IMO they were a little pinched. It'll work, and others have done it, but BFG recommends 7-9" rims for their 31x10.5" B

I have not heard of them, but I also haven't looked into the topic. B

Well, a VG33 is a factory VG30 with 10% more displacement, so most people just start there. I'm sure there are some companies that build them (Mr510 in Washington I believe), but if you are swapping in a used VG33, you would change the timing belt and seals. You have to remove the cam pulleys to change the seals, and since you would have to swap over all the VG30 furniture, to change the cams is just valve covers and keepers. Not really 'building' a motor in my book... Do what ever you want, obviously, but it seems like you are making things more complicated than they need to be. The stock VGs run a long time, so finding a used one isn't really much of a gamble. B

The VG34 is a chimera. VG33 block bored over with VQ45 pistons and valve reliefs cut into the piston domes, can't recall what cam/valve/injector mods... Nice motor, but not remotely stock, and in the other thread, you said you wanted a relatively stock motor. The VG34 is a built motor... Want to keep it stock and still scoot? The 3.3 L (3,275 cc) VG33ER is a supercharged version of the VG33, and produces 210 hp (157 kW) at 4,800 rpm with 246 lb·ft (334 N·m) of torque at 2,800 rpm. It is used in the following vehicles: 2001–2004 Nissan Frontier SC 2002–2004 Nissan Xterra SC Going to take some harness and ECU work though... You can always slap on a turbo and get over 300hp. B