Precise1

Get a hold of Alkorahil (aka Rob Lacy), he runs an online dealership parts department out of Texas, knows his stuff, and has just about the best prices you can find for factory Nissan parts. Talk to him and it'll all show up in one big box... Contact info is in the Classifieds/Services section towards the bottom of the main forum page, and tell him NPORA says Hi! B

Hey Bud! Sorry to hear about the drama/divorce! About those tires though... Take the time to remove them and measure the entire circumference of each with a flexible tape or string; it is much easier to be accurate that way, and you are are getting the measurement you actually want. We have had the Yokohama Geolander ATS on our R50 for 25k miles and they seem to be a well made, soft riding tire. Unless you got one that is defective, I doubt it is the tires. I second checking the U joints as well... B

Yeah, properly maintained the WD21s run a LONG time and I suspect the R50s will prove the same (with the VG33 anyway). 407K isn' t even the record I know of; 510K without major work was shown by a doctor in San Jose IIRC before we lost contact. He planned to drive it until the wheels fell off, but didn't report back. I suspect it was smashed in traffic... My 1995 WD21 has 106k miles (170k kilometers) on it, so it isn't unheard of. I'm saving mine for a rainy day... (lives in California) Some new member recently chimed in with one with less miles than mine! B

I'm thinking he just mis-spoke/mis-identified something. We know if that was the case, it wouldn't run 'normal'. Joluma, do you have an update? Not putting you on the spot, just want to figure it out... B

Sorry, just saw this... This was measured out for another member last summer, so I know it is right: Base of the hub is 4" in diameter. Bore size of the Cragar Soft 8 rims is 4.25". Cragar center caps will fit over the stock Auto-locking hubs. Warn hubs will fit fine, that is exactly what I have on my WD21. As for back space, I have he Soft 8's in 8" wide with 4" of BS which fits perfectly, and the edge of the tread is just even with the fender flares when you look down the body line (I probably have a picture somewhere), 10" with 4" BS will stick out a bit. IIRC, you can put 11.5" wide tires on 8" rims, if barely. Hell, I had 10.5" wide tires on 6" rims, but they were a bit pinched... FYI, the 32x11.5" BGF KM2s are supposed to fit 8-10" rims. http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/tire-selector/category/off-road-tires/mud-terrain-t-a-km2/tire-details#techspecs Not trying to change your mind, just supply info... B

Depends on condition and rust, but I doubt you can get more than $2k for it anywhere (prices will vary with area). If it runs good and it isn't too hard to bring it down, I'd say do that. Simply put, you know what you have and you'll have wheels the moment you arrive, and not have to find something/fix it if it needs it. One less thing to deal with, and you can always find something else and sell it if you want later... B

^Exactly. An Alarm might be better in that case... Don't reinvent the wheel, you need a trunk monkey! https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLoxADsZ9YforxtjWODy3Kz_8JjLH-Nxp7&v=AidAXgq9dWc B

Absolutely. While there are a few different types of mounts, the best ones are locking, obviously. You can attach it with U-bolts for lack of anything better, just secure it well and then saw off the excess, but leave about 1/4" or so to fold over by beating it with a hammer. Nothing but cutting it off will do the trick, and if they can do that, they will just cut the lock. While mounting on the hinge side is a better idea for leverage/weight, the carrier won't have any issue supporting the weight. I've seen pictures of people with a 35" tire, jerry cans, a high-lift jack and who know what else. The carriers are 'over engineered/built" and won't have a problem with a little more weight. Try searching, I know people have posted threads on their mounts, or look through the Members Rides section and as questions/PM them. B

Very well could be the trailing arm bushings, but just a hunch, how is the drive shaft universal joint? Loose or binding? That might be kicking things around, especially if the trailing arm bushings are worn. I mention this because you talk about abrupt load differences on the drive train. Try checking the U joint for play, and then jack up the rear axle, start it, put it in gear and look. If the drive shaft and tranny look like the tail wagging the dog, it is binding and will slew the rear around some. B

Not to my knowledge, but I haven't done that job yet. A lot of people have though, so I'm sure someone can inform you how they did it/what they did it with. Yes, 'trailing arm' is what most people here will know them as. Have you tried the search function or looked in the R50 (1996-2004) FAQ section? Since this is a specific question, not really an introduction per se, I'm going to move this into the R50 section for greater exposure. Good Luck! B

I believe that number might be possible in those situations (flat, straight, 50 mph, cruise, sea level, etc). Those conditions are basically optimal for mileage... Throw in a few stop signs, hills and whatnot, I'm sure you'd be right back where you belong, at 17-18 mpg... Nope, no smart phone, so no apps. B

Take it out, clean it and then lubricate it with dry graphite powder. Either that or just have your polar bear pee on it to free it up as needed... B

To jack up the body, use a floor or bottle jack and 2x4s, about 2' long to spread out the weight. I wass able to place the wood towards the outside of the pan right next to a body seam which took the load well. I used 2 jacks at the same time, front and rear and lifted 1 side at a time. Go REALLY slow and make sure you aren't hanging up anywhere, put the mounting bolts in the first side loose until you get the second side up and bolted. My body shifted slightly, so I tied off to a neighbor's Blazer (best use for it IMO) and used a come-a-long to get things lined back up. Mr Special is dead on about the water. If you have a sunroof, there is a drain line that can clog and cause problems (compressed air usually clears it), but if you have water on both sides, it is probably windshield related. B

In my D720 I just made a mobile of spent .357 and 12 gauge cases and hung it from the rear view mirror, just to let people make an informed decision. Seems to have worked, the only time it was broken into so was every other car on the street for 1/2 mile. You could always put a power interrupt switch under the dash that shuts off the hot lead to the ignition switch. Kinda hard to hot wire then even if it is busted open. I set it up like that on my old dune buggy... B

MY1PATH might have it right with the belt being backwards... Yes, you will count the belt teeth between the marks, the pulley having the mark on a tooth (valley on the belt) as in this picture. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/?p=204054 Seeing how the previous guy didn't seem to know what he was doing, you might want to go back in and verify that the cam marks line up at TDC #1, count the belt teeth, adjust as necessary... B

Well, code 44 means "44 ECCS Normal Operation." Code 55 means no errors. Maybe reset it and test again? Did you count the teeth between the marks on the pulleys? 40 between cams, 43 from LH cam to crank. Backfiring definitely sounds timing related, have you taken a look with a timing light just to see what it says? Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the TBI set ups, just the MPFI VG30-VG33 1990-2000, so don't have much more input... B

Did you have the death wobble? Other than that, unfortunately the OP was talking about the WD21 tension rod bushing, but yes bushings in general... First off, Avocado's number is just a (guaca)mole, but more importantly "The bearing race I used was LM67010 which is a Timken part #." http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36792-broken-compression-rod/?p=697589 B

Great, and you are welcome. Now if you have any additional question, asking in the thread(s) you read the info in is absolutely appropriate. We don't frown on resurrecting threads here, we encourage it for the exact reasons 'S4 mentioned. I'm looking forward to seeing how your truck turns out... B

Look, people do want to help, but answering the same question overand over when it is documented gets old. There are no hard feelings either way, but to search for the information leads you to the info, it is all here. Try just reading the R50 FAQ section. Welcome to NPORA, quite a few members in Oregon... B

Check it out of you want to play... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/41149-secret-santa-2015/?p=768432 B

I'm mildly surprised that the Exploder rated so well. Back in the 90s a buddy of mine had a 2 door 5 speed, and while I only drove it a few times, it was pretty funky and weird. First and second gear had this strange bounce to the throttle that actually felt like it was lifting the car, kind of like the old shaft drive motorcycles. Anyway, I've never been a fan of Ferds, so I'm probably biased. My old D720 was the best vehicle I ever owned, so when I went shopping for a small suv, it came down to Toyota or Nissan. Price wise you got a lot more Nissan, and after driving both, there was no question. 10 years and 3 Pathfinders later, I'm still sold... on the old generations anyway. B

OK, so the two generations you are talking about are called the WD21 and R50 respectively. Your Hardbody (D21) is very similar to the WD21 other than motor, obviously, and rear suspension. The V6 in the WD21 is called a VG30 (3 liter) and is very reliable as long as you change the oil and timing belt as appropriate. I would stick to the 1990-1995 4 door models because it is easier to access the back cargo area and the engine has MPFI injection rather than the older TBI system. Of the 4 doors, I would look for a late 93, 94 or 95 model; theoretically they will have less miles on them and the timing belt interval will be 105k miles rather than the 60k miles for the early 90s ones. The record I know of for the VG30 running without major work is over 1/2 a million miles. The R50 has the VG33 (essentially a bored over VG33) from 1996-2000 and is just as reliable as the VG30, simply with about 10% more HP and torque. Timing belt intervals for those are also 105k miles. From 2001-2004, the R50 came with the VQ35; also a reliable motor but with far more HP (something like 220-240 depending on year?) and a timing chain rather than belt. Guides usually need replacing every 120-150k miles. The R50 is still a capable wheeler, but it has a unibody design, rack and pinion steering and strut front end which generally makes it a more comfortable road vehicle. So, it really comes down to the body style/design, features and price point that you are after rather than a reliability issue. I have a 1995 XE that I have lifted and modified with bumpers, exhaust, etc that I really like, and my wife has a stock 1999.0 SE. That is quite nice as well with leather, heated seats/mirrors, sunroof, etc... B

Cams as well, but basically, yes... B

Nice, I love an easy fix... Make sure to keep the receipt for that starter though, some have been known to fail. B

Good summaries here, but one thing that I didn't see mentioned is one of the positives of a body lift; you have more clearance/room to access some things like the starter and bell housing bolts, the exhaust isn't as likely to burn through the driver floor board (yes, more common than you want to believe), and other such things. That wouldn't be reason enough alone to install a body lift, but it can be quite handy. I agree with RF600, I prefer a 2" suspension and 2" body lift with 31" tires myself. My Pathfinder is set up more for expedition type travel and daily driving though, not a hard core trail rig... B