Precise1

Adam, that was uncalled for and uncool. You are a trusted member here and know better than that. I expect better from you; Canadians are supposed to be nice, remember? hawairish, I cleaned up some posts because after I edited adamzan's post, the context was lost. Sorry for the BS. B

Hello Jim! I was just at Lake Mendocino 10 days ago, but haven't been to lake Pillsbury for years. Sunset campground is nice, but I used to stay at Oak Flats a lot. Beautiful country you have up there! As for lubricating the hinges, I used Lucas stabilizing oil on the pivots years ago, and like Terranovation, if I'm not careful, it'll either swing wide open and hit the stops hard or come back and hit me hard, depending on the tilt. Glad you got it worked out though. I can't recall any thread on the latch (not like I remember every thread), but it should be pretty simple to work out. IIRC it just bolts on and is removed as an assembly if you wanted to soak it in something. Otherwise it is just that handle attached to a shaft with two pivot points and a 2 sided spring. Should be easy enough to lube in place. B

I'd also want long term results of this steering mod before I did it. Grassroots 4x4 has a good centerlink replacement that doesn't require replacing everything else. Wheel bearings may still be serviceable. I bought a 1999 Pathy with 150k that had loose wheel bearings, and all I did was re-grease and properly tighten them. I'm due to check again at 180K miles... B

Thanks for the heads up! I just checked and it went for $86 US, so quite the deal... Maybe next time post in the for sale section? B

On reading, I don't think it is a timing (or belt) issue, but a sensor issue. Any difference between when it runs cold (at first start) and hot? Did you ever check for codes? I recommend checking the coolant temp sensor for output (ohms hot and cold) The info is in the downloadable FSM in the pinned thread in the Garage section. 1994 is the first year, but is the same other than dash, trim and a few oddities. O2 sensor output. 0-1V IIRC, and it should vary. if it is flatline, it is bad. TPS output? Good place to start, so let us know. B

Look here for tank/tankless options http://www.rocky-road.com/quickair.html This is what I have, sans tank, and it does everything I want, wherever I want it to... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37579-on-board-air/?p=712111 B

Bah! Just saw this, and metrology is my game... I'm not familiar with the parts you mentioned or what you are trying to measure, but I see you have a granite counter top to work on, have calipers and at most should only need dial/drop indicator and a stand to get any measurement you need. If I'm not too late, let me know. I can walk you through this with PMs, emails, phone calls, etc. It is 1/2 of what I've done for a living for 20 years... B

Excuse me, NON DRIVEN truck is the case here. Not registered, in the driveway awaiting work... Feel free to post pictures of your own flogged, rusted, Canadian underbelly to offset things though! B

Agreed, but I'll take it to my ultimate belief: Do not use wheel spacers at all unless it is a show car/trailer queen. Use wheels with proper backspacing... B

The other thing to consider is if it will allow sufficient air passage. I know the TD is only 10% smaller in displacement, but it is lower RPM as well, no? Just something to double check... B

Glad to be of help, sorry for the delay. Yes, please keep is informed on how that worked out. That might be a nice mod for people who aren't ready for cylinder work, engine swap. B

Yep, that is it! You got yer drivin' shaft in bassackwards, boy! The front carrier has rounded corners where the tube joins the u joint carrier (fork?), the back are square; they appear to be equal length (forgot my rule). Front: Rear: B

Sorry about the delay. Of course I forgot one day, got side tracked the next, etc. Typical, I'm afraid... Ok, so here are some pictures to show the relative spacing. I didn't measure the distance, but it is 1/2-3/4" by eyeball, if not more. I'm at somewhat of a loss as to why you would have such interference. Two thoughts are that my cross tube seems to be well behind the U joint carrier (look at the focal distance in the second picture), so does yours stand off from the front diff farther than later years, and are your Thorleys the original, or the second Gen were they made some minor changes? I'll be around tomorrow afternoon and will measure from the front diff to the beginning of the round section of the drive shaft, and maybe take a picture closer to our first angle for comparison. B

I don't think there is enough info to accurately answer that question, even if there is a calculated answer. Usage, speed, spring rate, shock dampening, etc... I've heard that a lot of lifted vehicles have a rough ride due to not enough droop, meaning riding at end-of-travel and then taking full weight which makes some sense. I think the question here is your need for ground clearance VS how likely you are to stuff/max travel 1 wheel, and how often. My observations are that the vehicles that keep their wheels on the ground do the best/have the best control, be it by articulation or droop. If it were me, I'd start like this: Stiff suspension 3 bump/4 droop Soft suspension 4 bump/3 droop and see what happens with actual usage. Obviously, be gentle at first and have spotters so you can get some pertinent info... B

I will take some pictures for you first thing in the morning Bud. I certainly don't have that problem, but I'll have to look again to refresh myself. What kind of front end mods are you running right now? B

So, do you have good flow? Maybe park it in a manner that you can just put it in drive and go? Reverse needs the highest pressure and obviously uses different channels, so it might be telling to differentiate. B

Have you checked the ECU for stored fault codes (highly recommended)? When is the last time the inline fuel filter has been changed? The fuel pressure should stay at aprox 43psi, all the time. The fuel pressure regulator should be checked next, and there is a resistance reading for the fuel pump as well. Since you seem pretty handy, go to the Garage section and download the Factory Service Manual from the pinned thread. IDX file is the index and EF & EC is the one with most of this information. This is your new bible... Obviously, keep asking questions, but that same section has a good trouble shooting section that does by symptoms and what to check, and in what order. B

You would be breaking federal law, and being generally irresponsible. I highly recommend you simply replace the unit with a used or aftermarket unit. Why did it clog in the first place? That isn't normal, and if there is some root cause, it might just foul the replacement. Have you checked the OBD2 system for any codes? B

I'm assuming it is an automatic transmission... How is the fluid level and condition? Are you getting flow through the stock cooler (bottom of the radiator)? Does it only do it when you are go in reverse first, then forward in drive? B

It should be interesting to see what capabilities/products you evolve to... As always, good luck and I'll help if I can. B

Agreed. I put Mile Markers on out 1999.0 and highway went from 18 to 20mpg, all else being normal. Yes, it does make the steering feel better (lighter) to me, and you have the added bonus of not wearing out your CVs/boots. It is a best-bang-for-buck for any R50 owner,,, B

Ahh, got it... Have the alty load tested? As long as the battery is decent, the winch load shouldn't stall the motor. B

I would like to point out that it isn't mud and dirt that is the problem, it is the road salt. I just changed the antenna mast on our 1999.0, and had to remove 1/2 of the fender flare, inner fender and lower guard to get to the motor and spool. There was enough dirt packed in the bottom of the fender to plant vegetables, and when I finally scooped/scraped it all out, nothing but nice white factory paint to be seen... not a hint of rust. That said, my 1995 has a few spots of rust starting on the rear doors, because it spent 1 winter in Pittsburgh... B

Code 55? Aww man, you are screwed!! Honestly, your problem makes no sense. If the CEL turns on, there should be a stored code, OTHER THAN 55. The only way I see to prevent this reoccurring ISSUE, really, is to stop driving it... B

So where exactly was it? Which one in that picture? 72 waffles!?! I'm beginning to see the source of the stomach issues... B