Precise1

I charged the batteries on 2/3s of them. B

Holding steady at 106.5k miles on my 1995... B

Well, my old 1984 D720 kingcab 4x4 sold me on Nissan reliability and wheeling ability, but I wanted more power than the Z24i and was tired of hauling everyone's crap around, so I looked for SUVs. It came down to 4runners and the WD21's; the 4 runners were almost 50% higher in price (why?) and I didn't like the way they drove... very little road feel. So, fast forward through 10 years of NPORA and I am on my second 1995 WD21, we have had a 1999.0 R50 for over 6 years, and I'm about to part out a 1991 (that I bought my friend when he needed wheels, who then bought a 2001 R50, who's BIL bought a 2002 R50...). Great vehicles! My WD21 has been parked for years, but gets started and moved every month or two. Hopefully this spring with be the time I get it back on the road. The good news? Only 107K on the clock... B

Apparently it has been found in a side yard of some questionable home, and then left there. Not sure on the details, but he moved on a bought another? The Mr Jim man doesn't come around here anymore, but Farsebook has details. NPORA had pooled together and resurrected the Mr Jim Pathfinder and gifted it back to Mr Jim the person. That was a success! It, and the principle, continues to live on here on this website. B

Which one? I drove the 1999.0 Swatted some wasps off of the 1995 Opened up the 1991 to start with the dismantling B

Probably gas separation/water from condensation which will leave the unwanted on the top. Add the HEET and then a few gallons of gas and see what it does. If it is still an issue, try jiggling sensor wires when it is hot and running. Still an issue? You might want to try draining the tank again, but hopefully that isn't the case. Get back to us before that... B

^probably right Just toss them in a spare jar... B

Well, water doesn't compress so you don't want to risk hydrolocking the motor. I'd just start out cautiously and go from there. It is the steam that does the cleaning from what I understand. Here, read up on it first... https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/decarbonizing-an-engine-with-water-myth-or-fact.793344/ B

Headers... And to follow up on my brain fart, I was talking about the enclosed K&N Apollo cone filter for a snorkel. The exposed cone filter wouldn't work for obvious reasons. B

Very little! I would probably just spray a mist down the intake tube while it was running. Start out gently and slowly. Water injection was a known, short term performance enhancer. The Germans used it on some fighter planes in WW2... B

Wiggle the connector for the TPS (throttle position sensor), the thing off to the side of the air intake (plenum) right after the rubber flex hose from the air filter box. It might be other things, but mine acts up occasionally, meaning the RPMs are a few hundred higher. It will reduce immediately for me, so instant results or on to the next thing... B

Just to avoid confusion, please post a picture of your motor. Hard to mix it up that way, but I'm betting on the VG30 for a 1995 and a VG33 for a 1998... 2001 will probably have the VQ35 and will not bolt up. VG series trannies are interchangable though. B

Damn, Adam, chill out a bit... What I was told from Nissan Master tech that frequents this site is that Dexron III/Merkon is perfectly adequate, but might need more frequent changes due to heat specs. That said, my 1995 needs new fluid, so I'll probably flush it out with some D3/M and then add the Castrol Transmax. I've had good luck with Castrol products over the last 20-30 years. Maybe there is something better, but hey, maybe the brand is to be trusted in this application? B

Agreed (although any HP increase is welcome). Please keep in touch and give us dinosaur floggers some feedback... B

I'll just add x10 to this. MAYBE it does something if you have a VG33 transplant or VG34 build, but for a stock VG30 (even with cams and headers from what I can tell), there is no point. The stock VG30 system seems to breathe better than the motor needs. Farting is another story though... If you want to run a snorkel, it is a good way to go then. B

Adam, that was uncalled for and uncool. You are a trusted member here and know better than that. I expect better from you; Canadians are supposed to be nice, remember? hawairish, I cleaned up some posts because after I edited adamzan's post, the context was lost. Sorry for the BS. B

Hello Jim! I was just at Lake Mendocino 10 days ago, but haven't been to lake Pillsbury for years. Sunset campground is nice, but I used to stay at Oak Flats a lot. Beautiful country you have up there! As for lubricating the hinges, I used Lucas stabilizing oil on the pivots years ago, and like Terranovation, if I'm not careful, it'll either swing wide open and hit the stops hard or come back and hit me hard, depending on the tilt. Glad you got it worked out though. I can't recall any thread on the latch (not like I remember every thread), but it should be pretty simple to work out. IIRC it just bolts on and is removed as an assembly if you wanted to soak it in something. Otherwise it is just that handle attached to a shaft with two pivot points and a 2 sided spring. Should be easy enough to lube in place. B

I'd also want long term results of this steering mod before I did it. Grassroots 4x4 has a good centerlink replacement that doesn't require replacing everything else. Wheel bearings may still be serviceable. I bought a 1999 Pathy with 150k that had loose wheel bearings, and all I did was re-grease and properly tighten them. I'm due to check again at 180K miles... B

Thanks for the heads up! I just checked and it went for $86 US, so quite the deal... Maybe next time post in the for sale section? B

On reading, I don't think it is a timing (or belt) issue, but a sensor issue. Any difference between when it runs cold (at first start) and hot? Did you ever check for codes? I recommend checking the coolant temp sensor for output (ohms hot and cold) The info is in the downloadable FSM in the pinned thread in the Garage section. 1994 is the first year, but is the same other than dash, trim and a few oddities. O2 sensor output. 0-1V IIRC, and it should vary. if it is flatline, it is bad. TPS output? Good place to start, so let us know. B

Look here for tank/tankless options http://www.rocky-road.com/quickair.html This is what I have, sans tank, and it does everything I want, wherever I want it to... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37579-on-board-air/?p=712111 B

Bah! Just saw this, and metrology is my game... I'm not familiar with the parts you mentioned or what you are trying to measure, but I see you have a granite counter top to work on, have calipers and at most should only need dial/drop indicator and a stand to get any measurement you need. If I'm not too late, let me know. I can walk you through this with PMs, emails, phone calls, etc. It is 1/2 of what I've done for a living for 20 years... B

Excuse me, NON DRIVEN truck is the case here. Not registered, in the driveway awaiting work... Feel free to post pictures of your own flogged, rusted, Canadian underbelly to offset things though! B

Agreed, but I'll take it to my ultimate belief: Do not use wheel spacers at all unless it is a show car/trailer queen. Use wheels with proper backspacing... B

The other thing to consider is if it will allow sufficient air passage. I know the TD is only 10% smaller in displacement, but it is lower RPM as well, no? Just something to double check... B