WD21colorado

thanks for the reply others on another forum suggested i use xj springs like Rubicon express re1345 5.5 lift. so ill probably try those out and see how it responds to that. so thank you for giving me more information for other candidate vehicles to choose from for coil springs.

found the problem a couple years ago. being dirt found its way into the 4 junction connecter by the passenger side bank. cleaned it out. problem hasn't shown up in two years.

hello NPORA members I've looked over the different threads. and cant find a solid answer. I'm looking for information about coil springs for the rear axle that are around 21" tall with a spring rate between 200-250 lbs. per inch. for my 1995 wd21 is modified with SAS'ed front end with few armor. with .25" plate winch bumper on front and .25" rectangular bumper in the rear on 35" tires. i currently have ac 3" coil springs on the rear but are too soft and short now am looking for information for a solution on difference springs. all the information i can find is for coil springs that are too small for my applications that i am looking for. I'm not sure if front xj coil springs will work for mine yet but will be modifying my rear trailing arms to a long arm setup to reduce the large amount of thrust steer it currently has. so any information for larger heavy duty coil springs will be apricated. i know the rough dimension being 21x4.5O.D. but not truly sure on spring weight fort what's on the market.

just drove the vehicle for a few miles seems to be acting normal currently. charcoal canister was replaced yesterday so fuel tank pressure apears to be normal again. but have noticed lagging when you go W.O.T. for a couple minutes. also a new fuel pump was ordered yesterday since the problem only seems to show up during high fuel consumption periods. also tested the fuel regulator which is still working with in spec.

the pressure test was done after the fuel filter. the filter it self was replaced back in February.

just did fuel pressure test. idle (36 psi) aggressive rpm spike ( 42 psi) and 4000 rpm run for one minute ( 37 psi) this is for the mpfi system, and doesnt seem to be getting high enough pressure. and also tested the evap canister and has appeared the purge valve has failed so that would explain the positive pressure in the fuel tank.

so im having an issues currently im thinking that my fuel pump is starting to fail the truck is at 223k currently anyway last week drove out of state for a trip vehicle did fine. until the last couple days there. when driving up a hill at 45 mph the truck randomly lost power wouldn't pull in any gear it was in. shut the engine off and restarted aafter a couple of minutes. the problem went away and afew days later the problem cam back this time it happened after driving threw i70 on the mountain passes maintaining around 65 mph with the fuel tank around 3/4th full. the vehicle started to bog down serverly and did it wheather it was going up hill or downhill. then the other problem ive noticed is that just recently the fuel tank pressure has changed it used to average negative pressure. but currently it seems to be running at a positive tank pressure and noticed it was pumping WARM fuel vapors threw the fuel filler pipe. it stopped immediately after the engine was shut down. so these two things are confusing me. i do think the fuel pump could be on its last legs but the other problem is more technical for me to understand. any ideas on what could be screwed up?

i have recently did an auto to manual swap. the whole swap took me about 4 days. ( would of taken 3 days if the bolts on the flex plate to torque converter werent stripped). the bell housing for the vg30 are the same but the studs are longer on the manual than they are for the auto also the transmission cross member sits differently than the auto also most likely your newer manual from the pre 1990's pathfinders have a shorter fifth gear something like 0.86:1 vs 0.73:1 on the auto. one more thing both tx-10 transfer-case are compatible but the transfer case slide rail on the outside of the transfer case appears to be a different length on the pre 90's models. if any other question just post it and other people should answer.

the shocks worked great for the stock height. ended up trying out the pro comps with a 3 inch lift on the vehicle. so far haven't had a shock fail yet.

yes the EGR control your nox output. by re diverting the exhaust gas's back into the combustion chamber, you want to make sure the egr valve still works by putting vacuum pressure on the egr vacuum line. and feel if the diaphragm moves. if it doesn't move then the egr is bad. My vehicle is also throwing the same code and found out the wiring harness that controls the vacuum solenoid and has an intermittent fault. you might also want to check you vacuum lines that run to the egr valve and make sure they dont have a leak.

is it code 32 or 23? because the DTC code of 23 is idle switch and code 32 is egr function,

The jgc springs did lift the rear about 2 inchs. But got them off a 1997 V8 JGC. At the time i didn't have a pan hard braken on but. Very strongly putting one on if you go above 2" lift. Also you might have alignment issues if you crank the torsion bars way up.