Precise1

Yep, I got a Nissan clutch through Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) and it was so much softer/smoother, I had to learn how to drive the truck again. Don't worry, it'll slowly stiffen up over the next year... Congrats BTW! B

MULLET!!! Ehem. Nice truck! So, if you want to upgrade and you are pulling/working on the motor, I highly recommend that you ditch the VG30 (actually, just sell it as a running motor) and install a VG33. VG30E produced 153 hp (114 kW) and 182 lb·ft (247 N·m). VG33E, with 168 hp (125 kW) and 196 lb·ft (266 N·m) torque. Add VG30e cams (stock, euro or stage 1 performance), intake/headers and full exhaust (with all the other factory VG30 stuff on it) and it you will have a bullet proof runner producing 180-190hp/200+ lb-ft that passes smog. Bolts up the same, minor bracket work for accessories, no hurting the motor, no detonation, no ecu/injector change. It is running everything at the limits, but within spec... All documented here Bud, so time to look around a bit. B

Also in the FSM (that can be downloaded from the pinned thread in the Garage Section) is a list of fault codes you can read from the ECU which might give you an indication of where to start. Even the automatic transmission has diagnostics, so I recommend checking all that first. There is a good write up on checking the ECU in the Garage/How To section, and the earliest FSM is for 1994; don't worry, 95% of it applies to 90-93 as well, the only real differences are dash, trim, etc. B

Ok, I found the article but I got it a little backwards. I'll post the info anyway, as I'm sure it'll help someone. Cracked Dash Repair: Cut out the damaged plastic or vinyl along with any other areas that seem brittle or compromised. Spray some 3M Polyolefin Adhesion Promoter on the exposed foam. Apply a thin layer of 3M EZ Sand Flexible Parts Repair, filling the cut out section and overlapping the surrounding good plastic. (this epoxy will dry to a hard plastic consistency) Once dry, sand to blend with 400 grit but be careful not to break through. Spray a layer of SEM Texture Coating paint to blend and let dry. Finish with SEM Color Coat in whatever color matches your dash, or remove it and do the whole thing. ***Since they specify to do this on plastic or vinyl material, the paint product should be appropriate for painting general interior pieces as well*** Added bonus Kick Panel Repair Remove the panel, turn it over, prep the surface (the can probably tells you the procedure), push the plastic together, aligned, and apply 3M Semi-Rigid Plastic Repair. Allow to dry and reinstall... This information was sourced and paraphrased from the May 2015 issue of Popular Mechanics. I tried to find a link to the article, but couldn't. For what it is worth, I once worked for 3M and used a lot of their products. My general take is that while their stuff is pricey, I've never had anything fail to do what it promised if used correctly. In other words, their products work... http://3mcollision.com/3m-polyolefin-adhesion-promoter-05907.html http://3mcollision.com/3m-automix-ez-sand-flexible-parts-repair-kit-05895.html http://www.semproducts.com/refinish-flexible-coatings/texture-coating http://www.semproducts.com/refinish-flexible-coatings/color-coattm-aerosols B

Definitely clean those battery terminals and do what you can to improve that battery clamp/connection. Also, make sure the ground strap is clean/has good contact to the chassis (behind the battery IIRC) and across to the motor. Sometimes the starter can't pull enough amps of the ground isn't sufficient. Sorry, don't know about the ignition... B

I'm sure it will. MY1PATH has to be right about the connectors, there is no brain or control for the manual gear box and transfer case, so it can only be a matter of the right light coming on at the right time. Sorry, but I have no manual system to look at for reference... B

Sorry, front differential drop bushings. Well, yes, and everything in between. The front has torsion bars so adjustment range spans the entire range of travel (the most you might have to do is re-index the adjuster arm a spline or two), and the rear has springs. You can buy lift springs (AC again), you can go to a junkyard and get Jeep springs (plenty of info on that on this site) and cut them to the height/stiffness you want, or you can contact fleurys (4x4design.com IIRC) who makes HMPE spacers in 1,2,3" increments. Installing them will keep your ride quality and just give you the lift. Within the 0-3" range front and 0-4+" range in the back, you can do whatever you want quite cheaply and easily... B

Hello fellow Sag! 1) Essentially, yes. 3" is possible, but pushing it. 2-2.5" is within general reasonable limits. If you do a 3" suspension lift, make sure you install front drop bushings. Available from AC 4x4parts.co, and they only give you .25-.5" but at that point it is needed... 2) Are you talking about cat-back systems? I'd guess a big NO. Way different underneath with the bed and leaf springs... Got a link to it? B

Sorry, not I, but what exactly are you asking? Which plug goes where? Nothing in the FSM about that? Yeah, I just saw that crap and said WTH?!? Not sure how that happened, no crapatalk here... Woooooooo!! (mating call of the feral Redneck) B

About .25" different.... B

For whatever it isn't worth... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/9186-r50-hidden-winch-mount-recovery-system/?hl=%2Bhidden+%2Bwinch B

I see the 72-80 ft/lbs, but not the 115 ft/lbs. I'd think 80 is fine, and I'm pretty sure that is the number I went with as well; I didn't have a torque wrench that when over 100 ft/lbs back when I replaced mine... Well, I'll be damned... I learned something today and it made me laugh! Care to elaborate on your specific method? B

I want to say Krylon plastic paint but I have also heard of everything from bed liner to Plastidip as well. Just going to have to search a bit for it. I did recently read an article in Popular Mechanics on vehicle restoration and they mentioned specific products for plastic trim and dash repair. I'll dig that info up and post it here. If I don't within 48 hours, yell at me... B

Good job, I'm glad you got it out. I have some of the square style as well and generally prefer them for small bolts, but I figured that if the spiral type didn't work, they wouldn't either... Did you have to re-tap the hole? I have a few tricks for that as well. B

Can you get a small pick or screw driver in there and see if you can tap the broken stud counterclockwise? B

Sorry, but 1 minor correction though. The early Pathfinder VG30e had square tooth timing belt with 60k mile change interval, the later years had the rounded tooth belt with 105k mile change interval; the change point was somewhere mid year 1993. If you aren't certain which yours is, it would be best to look before ordering any parts. You should be able to get the top cover to move enough to see quite easily... B

Superglueing a small bolt to it might work since it doesn't seem to be seized, and would be easy to remove/clean up if it didn't work. I know some people have tack welded a bolt much like you describe also. Perhaps try a left handed drill bit as well to see if it will walk it out; I've made my own spade drills and used this trick in machine shops often. Just be patient though... B

Fair enough, and no worries. I just know from rebuilding mine... LOL, I don't know if I should be happy or sad for that. Just don't let her see Donnie Darko any time soon! Here, let me prove that I am real and not scary, mostly, I think. Still a bunny though, and that's just fine... B

Can you give more information on it than that? B

Probably not an issue so don't worry about it. Just pointing out that there isn't a 1 type fits all, hence why multiple types are made. Ultra Copper is better for exhaust, Ultra Black is better for oil, Blue is better for coolant type applications IIRC, etc. It comes down to application; beware of catchalls... B

^Agreed. Not true. There are two plastic bushings (IIRC) that can be replaced in the idler arm. Mark... do you look at any of the expanded views in the free, downloadable Factory Service Manual? You really should be able to determine this... B

So... If I read that correctly, you got your truck stuck, dug it out and now it doesn't accelerate properly, like there is something wrong with the tranny? You can stop it, shift to park, then drive and proceed? 1) Don't drive it like that 2) What is the transmission fluid like (when was the last time it was changed) 3) Make sure the shifter cable/linkage/arm is not blocked with debris 4) Have someone check for tranny cooler blockage (bottom of the radiator) B

Err... His info shows a 1994 which is WD21 (frame included), not R50 unibody. Good points otherwise though! B

Get her a 2004 LE and she'll leave your 2001 alone... B

Factory Service Manual. Your new bible... No need to google search, the link is the first one pinned in this thread, in the Garage section... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/26616-factory-service-manuals/ I believe the EC section is the one you want for the IACV, but look up the error code P0505 and follow the diagnostics exactly. This is the same manual a Nissan mechanic would use, so don't interpret it, just follow it. The OBD2 system is very specific about what is going on, so if two previous owners and their mechanics couldn't figure it out, someone wasn't trying or someone was lying... B