Precise1

Umm... Move? Sorry, I know that doesn't help. I haven't messed with Pathy ignition for over 5 years, and even then it was just to sell it, so I don't think I can help much. I'm guessing the factory alarm didn't work, and/or there was no additional security system? I'd say the best place to start would be the Factory Service Manual (downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section) to check some of the fuses and relays under the hood. I believe there is also a wiring diagram which might help you get that ignition sorted out. Perhaps someone has a Pathy apart enough to take a picture for you? Sorry this happened, I really hate thieves, even if they only succeed to be vandals. Definite POS's.... B

This is probably why... Fuel injected, water cooled, 750cc inline 3 cylinder firing horizontally with a single plate dry clutch and single arm swing arm with enclosed shaft drive. Bit of an odd bird, at least for that time, and maybe even now... B

Adam is just proud of his new found oil change abilities... Yeah, the placement on the VG30 is pretty lame, mainly due to the slant. I found it impossible to to remove without oil leakage, because as soon as you break the seal, it starts to dribble. Of course, the answer is to put a rag over the starter and tuck it up under the oil filter, but it seems like they could have managed a vertical drop fairly easily. How about changing an oil filter on a BMW K75? The screw-on oil filter is inside the oil pan, accessed by a small port, slightly larger than the oil filter itself. You better have the right tool, but even then if the PO over tightened it, it won't be coming off regardless. Then you get to drop the oil pan to remove the oil filter... Putting the oil pan back on requires a manual and a torque wrench; there is no gasket, just two machined surfaces that have to be joined in the correct sequence and to the correct torque. Do it right, and no leaks. B

Bah! I wish I felt 70 sometimes! I don't want to talk about it... B

Hah! If only... Double edged sword Bud, I'm so skilled, I can't find a job anything near my skill level. Over specialization is a narrow/dead end street.... Anyway, this thread is about age, not employment, you grumpy old man! B

Considering I'm posting at 11:15, I'd say you are a category higher than I; mentally, if not physically... B

Well, I made use of the 'delete my vote' button, and re-voted with the current category. It could have been up to 11 years since the first time I voted... B

Voltage regulator in the back of the gauge cluster gave up? Download a copy of the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and chase some wiring? Welcome to NPORA BTW. I've been through Bend, it's a beautiful area... B

Looks like you had fun! There should be quite a few members nearby, the PNW is crawling with them... B

He ended up junking it and buying a 1992 VG30E Pathfinder... I'm due to call him today, so I'll have him refresh my memory. B

That isn't a bad price for that vehicle, at least in this area, but I don't know where you are located. Yes, it will probably need a clutch soon (if it hasn't been changed already) and maybe timing chain guides. Check for rust, cooling system cleanliness and suspension integrity. Any maintenance records are a plus, obviously.... B

^ which is why I don't recommend spacers on principle... OK, good info (along with everything else), but does the vibration increase in frequency with an increase in speed? What frequency would you describe it as at 40 mph? At 60 mph? B

Ok, U joints was my first guess, but there is the infamous R50 death wobble which is caused by the trailing arm bushings for the rear axle as well. First, just a little info please... How many miles on the vehicle? Is the vibration speed or rotation related? (ie, does the vibration occurr at a certain speed or range, or does it vibrate 2x as fast going from 20 to 40 mph?) How mechanically inclined are you and do you have tools and a place to work on it? Congrats on your 'new' Pathy BTW, it looks real nice! B

Hah!! Don't think I saw this reply before now, but I like it! B

Thank you very much for documenting that, it will help greatly! Yes, I believe that you are correct that there aren't pictures of that quality/detail available until now... Good luck with the install. B

A friend of mine had a similar issue with his z24. He rebuilt it, twice in the same week but couldn't solve it. Something about the block design and #3 being problematic IIRC. I can't recall the specifics, but I can ask him... So, the KA is a good motor with more power, I'd prefer the VG30 myself (especially with the 10% power loss running LPG) and I don't know anything about the SR20 at all. I'd say that you should go with what ever can bolt up to the existing bell housing first, I'd guess the KA would be the answer there, but that needs top be confirmed by someone. Nunya, you know the KA motors, got any answers? JamesRich converted his VG30i to a carb set up and documented it well. Let me look... Bingo! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36016-carburetor-on-a-vg30/?hl=carb B

Do it right away though, just to be safe. A buddy of mine just lost some oil driving across Nevada due to a small leak, and while he noticed it before the idiot light came on, he still had to rebuild to top valve train due to oil starvation... B

Yep, good info above! IIRC, 2001 was the year Nissan went with the 16" rims, although as said there can be minor interference depending on the specific design/backspacing. I merged the duplicate topics and cleaned things up a bit. Carry on! B

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the VQ35 so I can't help with codes either, but I do recommend downloading the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and following the diagnostics for that item, probably in the EC section. If you can't find anything significant/obvious with the tires/wheels/bushings, try jacking up the rear axle, putting it on jack stands (block the front wheels well), starting it, putting it in gear and letting it idle (with the parking brake off of course). If the drive shaft/tranny look like the tail wagging the dog, your universal joints are probably binding... Sorry to hear about the loss of your F-I-L. You are probably making the right decision to keep the Pathfinder, they are good vehicles and it should run a bit longer before any real failures. B

I worked my way through that by assuming that if he coasted off a cliff, he probably wouldn't be posting about it. B

Ahh, I smell ya! Nothing like gear oil to permeate, especially old gear oil... YW BTW Considering 3/38 is almost exactly 2mm (.07895" vs .07874") maybe your beer goggles made you dysmetric (metlexic)? (I made a machinist funny! Hur, Hur...) I second the photo/measurements request. Even if it doesn't help with this, it is good info to have. B

Yes, remove the entire gauge cluster, make sure the brass screws are clean and tight, and check every electrical connector for contact and corrosion. That works maybe 1/2 the time... After that, search for 'voltage regulator' here... B

Hawairish, you are by definition a gearhead! To the Garage it is... *WOOSH* B

Too funny, once I cleaned them up/greased them, I needed to look at my own photos to get the assembly right. Don't know if that is good or bad... B

It is in the pinned Factory Service Manual thread in the Garage section. Good luck with the issue... B