Precise1

LOL ESL... Speak French to him. (Quebec ) B

Ok, the damper is a unit on the firewall that somehow provides a buffer between the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. My guess it that it is supposed to assist with the smoothness/transition of shifting. Some people like to get rid of it, most leave it alone. I doubt you have to replace it, but don't really understand what the failure mode would be either. Worst case scenario, you could change it later and just bleed the system. You definitely don't have to do it as part of the same clutch job.... The release fork is a hard cast oem part and should not go bad. Check for cracks, bending and such. If it clears the inspection, run it! B

Yes, disconnect the battery before unplugging the ECU. Step on the brakes a few times with the jgnition on to drain any residual current... You are welcome, I hope that helps you find the issue and it is an easy fix. I'm going to be gone most of the day, but I'll check back this afternoon. Good luck Bud! B

So, P0335 was the code? Crankshaft Position Sensor? (CKPS) 166-203 Ohms is the resistance, but maybe you have a wiring issue. There is too much info to type, but if you can, go to the Garage section, into the Factory Service Manual thread and follow the first link. Go to 1998 (just trust me on this) and only download the EC section. Page 264 is what you want to look at to check the harness, engine ground, etc. I'll check in the morning to see if you got that, and maybe I can post screen captures if not. Go by the fault codes first, if the ECU isn't happy with input, that is probably the issue. See if you can trace the wires visually, maybe something got pinched or melted. Happened to me once with new headers and put the vehicle into limp mode. Found the melted section, spliced and good as new... B

X2 Certainly clean the throttle body (can't hurt) but my first thought was timing, followed by compression check. How many miles on it? 2k in 5th is dogging it for sure! the 32" tires don't help, but swap in some stock 4.63 gears as well... Kansas has hills? B

Your squealing nuts are making your wheel... what? Definitely look at the wheel bearings, but if they are dry/bad enough to squeal, I doubt they'd feel fine rotating. (you can check the front just by removing the hub and nut/lock washer, not the entire hub/rotor/caliper) Check the caliper bolts, look to make sure you don't have a rock or some other road debris wedged in between the rotor and the caliper/shield, and when you replaced the pads, did you lube the slide pins too? Do they use road salt in your area, so are things corroded? Another thing would be to do a quick brake bleed. If you have some air, it can be under compression and not allow the caliper to back off the rotor properly... B

Broken down in Ohio! If that isn't a cry for help, I don't know what is... DID the CEL come on? Have you checked for codes with an OBD2 reader? How many miles on it? Does the rotor turn when you crank the motor? So far I agree with Kingman, the dizzy could be the issue, but not enough info yet so I wouldn't buy one just to find out yet. I'll make a point to watch this thread... B

I discovered this unfortunate reality when replacing the rotors/pads on our 1999.0 R50. I installed the MileMarker manual locking hubs (PN 435) no more than 5years/30k miles ago for the sole purpose of isolating the CV joints and increasing fuel economy. For this they have done very well, but when I took them apart... Most components showed significant rust and/or corrosion. This vehicle has never been off road, ever, and I greased the paper gaskets upon assembly, but nothing else. The only conclusion I can have is that the factory grease (thin, redish stuff on mine) is useless. As you can see, things are well rusted, but for no reason... So, I recommend that anyone who has these hubs take a look inside to see if they need to be cleaned up/re-greased. More info: Lifelong California vehicle, so no salt. Switched without issue, but was slightly crunchy. Surprised the hell out of me... Exploded view for assembly/dis... Not difficult, you just need some expanding C clip pliers and a pick with a sharp point Take a look when you can guys, might save you some unnecessary grief. B

What exactly is the 'code enforcement guy', and what does he do? Does he like to drink, or does he have pets, children or a wife? Yep, honestly, I don't know exactly how it would work; like I said, I've never done it, but know that people have. That is why I said to consider taking the TC off though... Not ready to drive to NY to find out. B

Yep, and a buddy of mine just ate his top end driving across Nevada when the oil filter relocator adapter loosened and leaked. Idiot light never came on, but he noticed a leak when he stopped for gas. Pulled the relo kit off, put a filter on, topped it off, drove to Colorado and did an oil change, and another, and another. He described it as 'panning for steel'. "New cams, lifters, rocker arms, and bottom end bearings. She runs great once again." Mind you, it never stopped, lost power (how would you tell) or knocked, he just started looking for the missing chunks... Yeah, screw idiot lights, if you want to know what is going on, install gauges; oil pressure, volt meter at minimum, tranny temp if it applies. Why don't cars come with them new? From the factory, it is a few hundred bucks max and incorporated. No excuses, my '84 D720 had them... B

x3 on the punch, or even an old screwdriver. I've never had mine come loose though, much less shear the keeper screws! I do go to snug, and then to the next tightest locking position though (usually, sometimes that can bind), and I always do a hand on wheel check within a week/100 miles, just to be sure. If the hubs heat up from driving (not braking), umm, they are too tight. B

We have a 1999.0 R50, build date 10/98 but registered as a 1999 model. I often buy parts for a 1998 Pathfinder just to avoid the whole 1999.5+ confusion, but this time I thought it would be OK or just wasn't thinking. Anyway, this happened with Autozone, but O'Really's has the same issue/conflicting information so assume other chains may as well. 1999 Pathfinder rotors are 28.1mm thick, 37.9mm wide overall and 299.8mm in diameter ($40) 1998 Pathfinder rotors are 28mm thick, 38mm wide overall and 283mm in diameter ($30) The only difference is 16.9mm in diameter, and you pretty much have to take the old rotor off to get a good measurement. I've been doing this in stages, and didn't notice the difference and failed to match them up before I mounted the new, larger rotor. I only noticed when I went to slide the assembly onto the spindle and it wouldn't clear the dust shield... So, be warned if you have a 1999 R50, there appear to be two different rotor sizes. Hopefully this will save someone some cursing, another trip to the auto parts store and a delay in the job. Interesting note I just learned (too late of course), the calipers for 1999 show two different types; one Built to 11/1998, the other Built from 12/1998, so there is the cut off. The brake pads are the same part number though, so the only difference is a greater relief for the larger diameter rotor (or the whole thing sits at a slightly larger diameter). Why they don't show a cut off date for the rotors... Like the parts guy said, "Yeah, Nissan does some weird stuff sometimes..." B

The only real difference I can think of is not having to jack the truck up high enough to slide the tranny out, not having to deal with a tranny jack, etc. Probably safer too, and it should be easy to split the two once they are out. Mileage may vary... B

Pretty sure they are different threads, so better research it first. I'm sure there is a thread here that discusses it/has the info but I don't know exactly where/what and don't have time to search for it right now. B

Download a copy of the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. It'll show you an expanded view and tell you how to adjust the preload. This is something you can fairly easily with just basic tools and the ability to jack the car up and remove the tire. Mine is on jack stands right now waiting for me to finish replacing the brake pads, rotors and repacking the wheel bearings... B

SawzAll!! Yes, if you have a proper lift to handle the weight, I'd do just what you said. You might be able to leave the front cross member, just let the tranny sag and tilt the front of the motor up enough to clear. Guessing though, I have not taken that approach. Hmm, second thought, the transfer case might give you issues. Maybe divorce that first? B

Ok, ask yourself, do you want to lift at the same time or just get stiffer springs? The answers depends on yours. Generally speaking, the largest tire you can put on a stock R50 (without sagged suspension) is 31x10.5" on rims with the same (or close) back spacing. Do the math with a tire size calculator. Hubs, you have 2 common options, Warn or Mile Marker. Mile Marker PN 435 can be had for under $100 and work fine, I run a set myself. Please don't take this wrong, but all of your questions are of 'standard noob' type and have been extensively discussed here. Please use the search function (just go straight to advanced search) to look up more discussion than you probably want to read, but the info is there. Welcome to NPORA BTW!! B

Might want to put that in the For Sale section as well... B

Hahahahahaaa!! Still laughing! He is 100% right though. If you see a MightyToy (Mitutoyo) 6" caliper under $90 new, it is fake or a scam. If you see a Mightytoy 6"caliper used for under $50, it is damaged, fake or a scam. I got lucky buying a pristine set from a member here for $50, but he failed to mention that the display would sometimes shut off and the calipers would re-zero mid measurement. BAD NPORA MEMBER!! Good news is that they were to lazy to even look at things, and all I did was clean the tiny bit of corrosion off of the battery contacts, and I have another flawless set. (4th from the left) Mitutoyo is basically an industry standard, and the 3rd from the left is a set I have used for almost 20 years. That are easy to use, feel right, and as accurate as you could want from guessing sticks. I paid $150 on sale back then, but they can still be had for under $200.They will also run about a year on one battery. I have other tools, like Brown $ Sharpe micrometers that can almost measure your blood sugar level, but with calipers, I look no farther than the MightyToys. Something I noticed in the video is the buttons. MightyToy has firm, sleek buttons that can easily pushed, but don't get in the way otherwise. (not large or proud) The counterfeit calipers have those oversized, protruding buttons, so that is something to watch for as well. While caliper #3 might cost/be worth all of the others, #5 is a Harbor Freight special for $40 that is going to be used as the X axes DRO on my mill. Notice that it isn't powered up? Because I don't leave a battery in it, or it well be dead next time I open the case. Like the guy proved, the cheapos use more energy shut off than the quality ones do operating, much less the display issue. The short of the long, just get dial calipers or go for the MightyToy electronics and expect to pay for them. Don't mess around in between... What did Steeeeevo say? B

*snort* (just experience) Main reason for calipers/measurements is then you are talking hard numbers, bolt hole circles, etc. Just takes all subjectivity and opinion out of it... I do highly recommend you (and most everyone) get a set of dial calipers though. Perfectly adequate ones can be had for $20-25. I recommend dials for beginners/only pair, and only 6"; you wouldn't know what to do with the rest... You do enough work on things that you'll find yourself reaching for them all the time. In the meanwhile, you can borrow one of mine... Funny thing is, I found two more when I was putting them away... The one on the left is older than I am, made by the patent holder/engineer who co-founded Etalon tools out of Switzerland. WW2 era Swiss quality, baby (paid $10 for them in a ReStore). Also, don't drop them, like the second from the right. Beam and rack is fine, but dial is gone and don't know about the gears. Winter project... Anyway, everyone, get a cheaper set of 6" dial calipers! They pay for themselves rapidly... B Side note for machinist humor: A good machinist calls calipers 'guessing sticks'. The calipers I dropped have a ground finish: They hit the ground and are finished.

That is assuming digital calipers though, and doesn't account for if one hole is larger than the other, but it is an easier method if adding two numbers together and dividing by two is too complicated. B

Have you tried heating with a torch, then ringing it (hitting the bolt head with a metal hammer)? Penetrating oil often needs time to wick in as well... B

No, that doesn't look right, even if there is some optical delusion. What I recommend is to remove the spacers and measure the drum stud spacing with calipers (hopefully you have some). Measure the inner, OD, outer OD, add together, and divide by two. Next, measure the spacer holes the same way. What do you get? (sorry if that is insulting, but I have to be clear and can't remember everyone's abilities) It looks like the ID is large, and the bolt hole spacing is equally off? If the body was not made correctly, and they only positioned the holes off an over sized ID, not true center (fixturing/locating differences), it could happen that way. (machinist here, but I don't know how they made it) Also, do the studs on the spacer line up with the holes in the wheel, or are they equally oversized? (that might answer things) Regardless, get your numbers, and contact SteevO at Rugged Rocks. I can't imagine he'd be OK with it if there was a product quality issue. B

JIC was my guess by the looks of it. Well, there it is... Yes, it unscrews... Well, it does on the WD21s... I'm almost certain you could have just grabbed that hex flange and unscrewed it/replaced it with whatever you wanted. (barbed fitting, etc) I hate plumbing, even on cars... B

I am pretty sure this is the case, but I'm not the last word; I have not locked/investigated an R50 so my information is from memory and second hand at best. That said, I doubt hawairish would have messed around that much if there was an off the shelf option that was reasonably priced. Good news though, he has told you how to do it... B