Precise1

Something isn't right... You shouldn't be 'overheating' in 100 degrees, driving normally by a long shot. All the Nissan trucks/SUVs I owned had perfectly adequate cooling systems, usually to the point they warm up slowly in the winter. Are you sure the cooling system is properly burped? Check the temperature sensor to see what the output range is (not sure of the value, I'm sure it is in the FSM), and check the radiator for obstructions and inside to see if any scale is developing. B Range is 70-90 ohms at 140 degrees, 21-24 ohms at 212 degrees and is the one closest to the front of the vehicle, on the side of the casting front and center of the engine.

I'd check your dizzy cap for cracks/condensation. A quick shot of WD-40 in it will clear that up instantly, so that is a quick/easy diagnostic method. Also, when it doesn't want to start, check to see if there is spark at the plugs. I'm thinking you have a spark issue, followed by a possible electrical connection issue (don't know which one though). I recommend going to the Garage section and downloading a copy of the FSM from the thread pinned near the top. It has a decent diagnostic procedure in the EC section, starting about page 89 (might vary by year). The first column is Hard Start/No Start, and the number in front of each component is the priority of checking order, and the last column has the page number for the procedure, for example: start signal circuit, ignition circuit, etc. There is a lot of info but don't be overwhelmed, it is all just one thing at a time. I'm assuming you have a multimeter and aren't afraid to use it? I assume there is no check engine light, but have you tried checking for any stored codes? B Also moving this to the R50 section for greater visibility...

That is nothing to be concerned of as long as there are no tears or splits in the rubber boot. Is there a grease nipple on that joint? If so, a few shots of grease would be a good idea. B

I think I get what you are suggesting, but I think for it to work it would need to be it's own section. That way the location/items could be in each title and each discussion separate. Maybe try it out in the Classifieds area? Let's see what the other staff thinks... B

Moving this over to the Recall subsection... B

We have a 1999.0 with the stock 265/70/15 tires and a trailer hitch, and yes, they will fit underneath. B

Probably a lot of miles left on it as well. Nice find! B

Could be bad connections/faulty wiring in several places that might create an intermittent start condition as well. Seeing as you didn't know how to check a fuse, there isn't a lot more diagnostic stuff you could easily do. I don't see how you had any other choice than to have a professional take a look at it. He should be able to verify a lot of the basics quickly, and isolate a possible cause. At least you learned something out of it, and hopefully it won't re-occur. B

The right hand side of the cross section view of each rim is the outside of the rim. I agree that the third one does look strange but it is simply the way they had to shape the arms to get them to match up with the identical rim profile in all 3 illustrations. I have no idea if it is a viable design, they probably just wanted to change as little as possible for their comparison. B

Quite accurate as well. You are right, a A/T temp gauge is a good idea regardless of the set up. B

Explains it better than words... Well, you are only .5" away from what is commonly run so no it shouldn't be a deal breaker, especially with the little lift you plan. Do realize that as back spacing increases (the back side dish becomes deeper), the wheel will protrude less and mount more inside the wheel well. The lighter weight of the alloys are noticeable and preferred on road for a reason. B

The 'goes away when warm' bit usually indicates leaking mainfolds, but pop the hood and varify if the sound comes from the top or side of the motor. Sticky lifters can be addressed with an engine cleaner product or by switching to thinner/recommended weight oil. Not sure if synthetic makes a differrence though. B

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Yeah, be careful with that one... Unpredictable! B

For the idle and miss, I'd start out x2 checking for vacuum leaks, then test the various sensors (temp, MAF, TPS, etc, LOL, BBQ) against the values in the FSM. All essentially free and need to verified anyway. That might be worth a different thread when you dive into it. Also check the Classifieds here to see if anyone is parting out a vehicle, make a post in the parts wanted section to see if someone has one laying around or even will grab one on a junk yard run... B

x2 but I thought the difference was the 2001 year because of the VQ motor and towing rating? I believe some people have ground clearance on the caliper and put on 15" wheels, but your mileage may vary. I know it has been talked about in threads... B

That looks pretty clean, congrats! The other two look nice as well... B

For what it is worth, when I was parting out a Pathfinder, I sold/shipped a front seat to someone at least 700 miles away for a reasonable price. They aren't very big when broken down, or heavy so if you can find a replacement for the same trim and color, it might be worth shipping it regardless of where it is. B

Yep, the links work for everyone now. B

Sorry, I just figured you'd be good at this stuff. Well, the first is a broken link... for me... and the second two want me to log into facebook. I don't facebook and the NPORA facebook page is not affiliated with the NPORA site or monitored by it's staff. (we really should make that clear and/or delete it). If you wish to post pictures for the members of NPORA, you need to post links to publically hosted material. This is the thread that explains it: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20781-how-to-post-a-photo/ Trying to see what you are doing, just can't... B

Nope, not on Facebook. This is NPORA... B

^nailed it to the wall!! If it is up in the air and there is that much movement, usually it isn't hard to see which components are the worst, just to give a place to start. I have also wasted my time playing hunt-a-part, so sometimes just replacing the majority is worth it. It comes down to the vehicle condition, how long you plan to keep it, if it is the DD, what is worth more (time/money), etc. The good news is that this front end isn't very hard to work on so piece meal is possible... B

Agreed, that something is so different on 1 cylinder makes me think of head issues as well. I have heard of cams breaking occasionally... A VG33 is always a nice upgrade, but it might be worth just pulling that valve cover gasket and see if it might be a reasonably cheap/easy fix. You know your situation best. Sorry it wasn't an easier fix! B

The year gap (for a pathfinder) would be 2000 VS 2001. 2001-2004 has the VQ35 motor so that is a different animal. Other than the very first, as was said, VG motors will bolt up to VG trannys of the correct drive line configuration. They might not be the best, but swapping is easy... B

Nice, but hopefully you won't be needing that. Well, wrong state for some things, right for others; never seen where you can get it all, especially cheaply... So one cool set up I have heard of is to have 2 water holding tanks in series, say 5,000 gallon tanks. The first is on a short tower, because there is no substitute for head... stay with me... and is piped into into the lower one via hydro generator/water wheel, etc. The lower has a sump pump type pump with a small solar panel/battery combo and a float switch that will pump up to the top tank when ever it is set to. This just tops off the the elevated tank for use in cleaning/livestock/irrigation water and as a suppliment to whatever battery system you will have. Have a heavy load or want to top off batteries? Use the hydro suppliment! A poorly made system with 50gpm and 10' of head should net you 500 watts for 100 minutes, and that is a good reserve. I'm happy for you, I hope it works out the way you want. B