Precise1

Actually, I believe you should have rear ABS (inside frame rail on the passenger side, 2/3 of the way back), but it is a fairly useless system that only might do something if you are towing a heavy load and brake hard. Soo... yeah. B

Stock or aftermarket? Stock would be dealership or Rock Auto (should be a small discount code posted in the Vendors section) https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1432945,parttype,2084,a,Ad%2BCode%2Bwww.google.com%2B Or Summit Racing for aftermarket. B

So, just to clarify, it only does it when the engine is cold? Any codes show up on the OBD2 system? B

We bought our 1999.0 4 years ago with 150k miles; it has almost 180k now. Items replaced, all within 6 months of purchase: Tune up parts Tires Front brake pads Gear oil in both diffs Injector for cylinder #1 That is it other than gas, oil and filters. When it hits 180k, I'll have the tranny flushed and check/repack the wheel bearings. Can't tell you how long the exhaust system lasts up there in the land of rot, but here in NorCal not a single item has been changed and nothing shows any sign of failing either. B

Without having looked specifically at the two, I'm certain that the mirrors can be taken off and swapped. They were plugged in/bolted on, so they can be unbolted and unplugged. Sorry to hear that the random damage fairy paid you a visit, that is pretty rude. B

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc9js0ZQlbM B

There is an edit time limit of 10 or 15 minutes, unfortunately some people make that necessary. I added those two comments where it seemed appropriate, let me know if you agree. So it didn't go too badly then. How does the clutch feel now? Did you bleed it as well? B

The spline should be a tight fit in the drive flange of the R50. IIRC, it is 28 spline and the same diameters as the 90-95 WD21s so hopefully someone can measure one for you? I'd take the flange off and check it for for wear/damage, it might need replacing as well. There is definitely a case of a wrong part or something here, there should be no slop and no clanking/rattling. At least you can measure the axle shaft without removing it, I'm sure the dimensions can be looked up... B

Lots of interesting stuff to pick through down there! I so rarely find interesting things here, I've stopped going... B

The point is really that it confuses the thread; next you have people answering the different questions back to back and it seems conflicting. Lets just let it lie and move on, shall we? B

If you have already cleaned off the loose, easy to remove stuff, you must have some idea where is could come from. You can dust those areas with a light powder (talcum, chalk, etc) and a new run will be obvious. There are UV dye additives I believe, but I'm not that high tech... B

Normally I'd agree (first automatic in 20 years), but if you have to deal with traffic, an automatic is far superior. I suspect you'll be learning this... I still miss the 5 speed for normal driving/wheeling, and like the simplicity of them as well. You seem smart enough... I recommend you buy a stopgap Pathfinder for the time being (transfer what ever you can/want), drive it for what ever makes sense, then look for what you are really after when properly positioned and not against a time frame, so then you can pick and choose. A little bit of sacrifice and investment initially should ultimately set you up better, like in so many things. B

I understand that the Sway Away bars are +30% as well, so is that some standard, or does AC sell the Sway Away bars? I had to check, same price within $5 so order who is cheaper for shipping/has them in stock. http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981697-pathfinder-torsion-bars.html http://www.swayaway.com/products/product-list/mode/filter?sort=name&order=ascending B

Everything mentioned seems spot on but hold on a minute... Hey now, don't go changing the question! Which is it? Point is, really, that there is more than one way to get there for the 1-2" lift you were first talking aboot. SFDs are quite common now, have several write ups as well. B

Sorry, I don't have the numbers you are looking for, but maybe an alternative method to achieve those results. Buy stock rate springs and add spacers... B

Legos are 7" wide IIRC and every tire manufacturer will list the range of rim widths for a particular tire and size. A little fudging is ok, but I'd stick pretty close to the recommendations. As for the largest tire size, etc... That really has been beaten to death repeatedly. Let me know if you have a hard time finding one of the many pre-existing threads. B

It is easier than the previous model, no torsion bars to deal with! That said, it is manageable if you have the proper jacks/stands/lift and a few air tools might make it go faster. You'll need a friend and a few long extensions/swivels to get the motor/tranny bolts out, and be very careful when pulling the tranny, it is heavy and the transfer case to one side will make it want to tilt over; you aren't going to bench press this one, my friend... Don't forget a plug for the drive shaft end and a clutch alignment tool, and take a good look at the rear main seal, it might be worth replacing since you are there (don't want oil on your new clutch!). 260k miles is about 1/2-2/3 normal life for these engines so it should still be running for a while. I highly recommend you go to the Garage section and download a FSM from the pinned thread, it'll give you a step by step description and all the torque info you will need as well. B

Sometimes when I am out in the yard working and I need my fix, I walk over to the 4x4 and hit it with a shovel to make a dent, then to go over to one of the planters, make vroom-vroom noises, pick up a handful of dirt and throw it in my face. On a good day, there isn't any cat sheit in the dirt... Good links and thanks for the info, I'll definitely check them out. I kind of drifted away from reading magazines and watching shows because they were mostly either all Jeep and unlimited budget eXTreMe WroK KraWLers (or mudders), or so contrived and padded with repeats and filler that it wasn't very interesting. Hard to find the sort of things most of are able/capable/interested in doing... B

Where are you moving to that does a safety inspection? Is it only when registering from out of state? I don't know what the costs of your repairs will be, but you can buy another one for $3-5k in far better shape and with less mileage. Still need a place to work if you want to transfer parts though... B

I'm afraid not, because the torsion bar slides into a socket that is bolted onto the LCA right by the pivot bushing. Look at page FA-37 for the FSM... B

Ditto. That's a fair amount of work to junk. Accident? B

You might want to look into Sway Away torsion bars as well. Just an idea... Sorry, didn't mean to jinx you! While the WD21s have a good cooling system, the grill isn't very big for the size of the radiator. Hopefully it will be alright, it was just the first thing that came to mind. B

Damn, that thing looks massive! Is that winch going to allow airflow? I'd think you need that in AZ... B

How ever you want to do it. I put Castrol w/additive in my first 1995 and it worked well. Well enough that I had to watch the gas pedal while turning at slow speeds on wet roads... Correct, it states LSD gear oil GL-5, but that is really only gear oil with a LSD additive pre-mixed; oils are all formulas these days. My referencing the OP to the FSM was mainly page MA-8 where it shows the types and capacities of fluids and lubricants. B

Yes on the cam seals, no on the motor mounts (unless they are mangled) but don't forget the bypass hose and maybe valve cover gaskets? B