Precise1

I've done a little bit of research for it along with a dual battery set up/power inverter as well. This is one area that $ defines the project. What are your needs and what is your budget? B

Have you checked the ECU for stored fault codes? (Garage/How To section has instructions) I had something like that happen twice, on different vehicles. Once it was the fact that the dizzy cap no longer had a center electrode, and once when I had a failing injector (resistance would fail only after being warmed, turned off and restarted). B

Only if you want the weight to tear the bumper off first time you hit a bump... Seriously, no, not even close. You need a specific built winch bumper. B

Hook up a timing light (or anything that fires/triggers from induction) and test all wires first, then pull them one by one. Check your cap and rotor as well, someone's rotor screw fell out recently, which caused RTA (random timing adjustment), and once when mine was stumbling at lower RPM, I noticed my dizzy cap had no center electrode to the rotor, it was just running by arcing... B

It needs to stay where it is, by Federal law to within a couple of inches. Before you randomly change the O2 sensor, check it. IIRC it will put out voltage between 0-1 volts during correct functioning, but if it is stuck or malfunctioning within this range, the ECU won't know that there is a problem. Test it cold, hot and while running... B Actually, the O2 sensor should read essentially 0 volts until it nears the ideal air/fuel ratio, at which point it should jump up to aprox 1 volt...

Are you certain the speedometer/odometer is accurate? A stock WD21 without issues should be able to achieve 13-14mpg town, 17-18highway at normal speeds/terrrain. B

Exactly, so something is strange here... Maybe the PO swapped in open diff guts (removed the LSD) so he could install the locker? Better call him... If you run larger tires, I'd go with the higher gearing myself, but that is just me. Otherwise, yes, the locker can swap over, but I understand there are a few critical adjustments when installing them so experience is helpful. I'm pretty sure there is a write up about it here by a guy in Arizona IIRC. B

Also, with the O2 sensor, IIRC the voltage output is 0-1 volts. Check it when it is cold, hot and hot running; you should get different values. O2s can fail in a way that the voltage doesn't change, meaning the ECU is still getting a reading in the acceptable range (so no fault codes) but in reality, the O2 is doing nothing... Also, go to the Garage section, there is a pinned thread where you can download a free copy of the FSM. 1994 is the first year, but 99% of it will be the same under the hood and the EC section has a really good trouble shooting guide. As was said, if you haven't, check the ECU for codes as well. Good luck, and don't be overwhelmed, just keep at it, one thing at a time and you will get it figured out. B Oh, I changed the title spelling, at first I thought Parrel was the name of a city somewhere...

This, and the wiring and connector. Free and easy check with an Ohm meter... B Oh, I moved this to the 90-95 WD21 section where it will get more visibility than in the Fab section...

Start on the passenger side where they are easily accessable. You have a 50/50 chance of being lucky... B

Considering they meet and agree at -40, not much of a difference! -35C is only -31F, you wimp! Actually, I can honestly say, F-that! (I honestly don't know how or why you deal with it) +45F tonight and +75F tomorrow. It was +102F in my greenhouse the other day before I opened the windows; usually I keep it between 85-90... B

Is this a duplicate thread that was missed? I'm certain this was already discussed... B

Never happened to me in 30 years... Over tightening perhaps, but usually it helps or does nothing from my experience. I've only needed to change valve cover gaskets a few times. A good example, our 1999.0 R50. When we bought it with 150k on it, the spark plug wells were filled with a mix of old baked oil and acorn husks from mice, and the manifolds would smoke slightly when it was hot. It took me hours to clean out the wells so I could change the plugs, and I tightened the vavle cover screws (most were at least a turn loose). 4 years and 30k miles later, still no leak or smoke... B

Try snugging the bolts first, and I do mean lightly. That alone might stop the drips (same goes for valve cover gaskets). B

I'm betting it burned off, I've seen that before. The thin strands of the braid don't hold up to intense heat very well... B

You are welcome. I suspect yours are damaged, but I can't swear they have to be replaced. The bushing cups may be damaged as well, one fix is to have bearing races tacked on in place. As for sourcing them, I suspect they are a dealer item. Never forget Rob Lacy over at factorynissanparts.com. I looked them up, $40-ea. I have no idea what his return policy it... http://www.factorynissanparts.com/parts/1995/Nissan/Pathfinder/XE/?siteid=214081&vehicleid=92803&section=FRONT%20SUSPENSION&group=FRONT%20SUSPENSION&subgroup=SUSPENSION%20COMPONENTS&component=Tension%20rod B

So they salt the roads where you are? And how many miles on your Pathy (I'm assuming they have never been done). If the answer is yes or 200k miles, odds are there is damage. Even if you can reuse the rods, be prepared to to refinish them with some sort of rust prohibitor. The good news is once you have had them off once, it is far easier the second time... The unfortunate things about those bushings is you can't really tell much by looking at them unless they have fallen apart; you pretty much have to disassemble to assess. B

Ok, all I said applies then. To remove the radiator, drain it via petcock on the bottom, then remove the bottom hose on the radiator end, catching all the coolant in a basin. Unbolt the radiator shroud (4 10mm screws IIRC) and just push it back towards the motor. Remove the top radiator hose at the radiator and be prepared to tie that end up towards the hood somewhat to prevent more leakage, remove the two top radiator bolts and lift it out. I'm sure you can figure out the install, and download a copy of the 1999 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. The motor info should be the same and it will tell you how to burp the cooling system when you are refilling it. B Just out of curiosity, when was the last time the timing belt was changed (every 170,000km is the recommended interval)? I ask because most people remove the radiator to do that job...

Redundant grounds are good! You'll know when your last one fails... B

X3 You can make your own out of some heaxy gauge stranded wire, but it might be challenging to find a place to tie it off to on the exhaust, it looks like the bolts are pretty rusted... B

Do you mean that the top plastic piece broke apart or came off at the seam? Yeah it happens... Unless you have some really nasty coolant or see a lot of scale in the radiator, I doubt it is blocked. The thermostat has a bypass hose (I believe), so that shouldn't be it and caps tend to grow weaker and not hold as much pressure, not the other way around. When was the last time the thermostat was changed, and I recommend just starting with a visual inspection and cap test. What motor is in a 2004 TI, just so we make sure everyone is talking about the same thing. B

I highly recommend a mechanics stethescope for anyone who works on vehicles regularly, they are under $10 and worth it. Yes, a metal rod or long screw driver cupped to your ear will do almost the same thing. The injectors should be clicking when you crank the motor; the ignition is on, and the dizzy is turning and the motor needs gas to fire. I agree, it sounds like a problem in the upstream wiring, and at that point, I'm not much help. The FSM should walk you right through the trouble shooting, it is quite indepth and the 1994 (earliest version) should be virtually identical to your 1991. Thanks for posting the link Slart! B

Other than the gas mileage requirement, I'd recommend a 2wd VG33 R50 (SE or LE). Ultra reliable, comfy, safe and well appointed. You already know the mechanics of it and you should be able to find a beauty for about $5k. Set a few grand aside to suppliment the more frequent fillups and she should be pleased... Math: Aprox 20mpg VS 25mpg=5 gallons VS 4 gallons per 100 miles. Assume 20k miles per year=200 gallons difference in gas used. Assume $4/gallon for gas @ 200 gallons difference=$800 more per year. Assume $3k set aside for gas from purchase price savings=4 years of driving before reaching $8k. I've been surprised by people who disregard a difference in purchase price over gas mileage savings. Unless the difference is drastic, it takes a long time to realize any savings... B

Everyone that gave advice, the OP has the diesel motor. Are you sure that the tranny is the same as it is for the gas V6? Just trying to make sure we don't give him misinformation... Thanks. B

Have you checked the ECU to see if there are any fault codes? Sounds to me like your injectors aren't firing. Can you hear them clicking? B