Precise1

Yes, but for good reason. I've done both, and can definitely say that 'if it aint broke, don't fix it' can go a long way when the vehicle is only subject to 'normal' driving. We have a '99 R50 with 180k miles, original suspension. Rides like an old Caddy, but handles fine, tracks straight and doesn't have any issues. I've been telling myself I need to replace the suspension for 30,000 miles now... B

Yes, by the same cutting method like I did. You just have to make some small incisions in each corner, 1" max IIRC, and if you need to, cut more towards the dash than towards the seats. Follow the grain of the carpet and make clean, straight cuts with a sharp utensil. Start small and see what you need, but when you lay it back down and ruffle/smooth it, you won't be able to see there was a cut... B

Honestly, I don't know. I don't own and haven't worked on the TBI system. Just follow the instructions... B

As for replacing the front end components, that can be a can of worms. Often replacing a few things doesn't make a huge difference, or just makes the issues shift to another worn part of the system. How does it ride/steer now? Any signs of real issues? Can you trust your shop to give you realistic diagnosis, not just money making quotes? If it drives ok, I'd leave it alone. If the trustworthy mechanic says something is whacked/failing, obviously replace it. CLA bushings are a PITA from what I have heard, so they may be a big labor cost item with minimal returns, and the tension rod bushings (LCA TO FRAME) should be checked as well, they are often overlooked and shot by that mileage (or 1/2 that). B

The write up for checking the ECU is in the Garage/How To section. It is not that hard to follow, and is better than nothing. Maybe it doesn't help, but it won't hurt. I do like OBD2 better, but your pay for it in systems and sensors as well. Injectors working or not? Seem to isn't much to diagnose from... Can you hear them clicking, smell gas, etc? B

First one was a 5 speed, second one is automagic. The 5 speed got sideway easily and the automagic doesn't doesn't, but when it does, it is gone... Miss the 5 speed, other than in traffic. B

My first Pathy was a 5 speed with LSD, and I pirouetted that thing through a couple of intersections in the rain until I learned not to give much gas while turning in 1st or 2nd gear. Then I got the hang of letting it swing a little... Are those ATs good for the snow? Maybe a winter tire would help? B

^Exactly, and so you can remove the boot & retainer without bending the crap out of it as well. It is the lazy method... B

Honestly you two, and all others similarly afflicted, I simply cannot comprehend why you would willingly subject yourselves to such conditions. I developed a basic climate philosophy long ago: If being without shelter for 24 hours means risking death, I shouldn't live there. Carry on all you nutty Northerners! B

When I replaced mine, I made a few small cuts with a razor blade in each corner of the boot hole, with the grain. When I put it back together, you couldn't really tell it had been cut... As for the fluid pump, yes, that will help immensely to top it off if you are working from underneath. You can buy a universal hand squeeze type at Harbor Freight for a few $. I recall someone tipping their truck and getting the recommended amount in (if not close), so that will work, but be careful... B Oh, to get the plastic screws out (they thread into a split plastic sleeve, almost like a drywall anchor), hold a small screw driver by the shaft and just turn it without putting any downward force while simultaneously lifting up on the plastic sill to provide tension. You'll have them out in 10 seconds each that way.

Jeans and a T-shirt here, I have the front door open (south facing) to warm the house. 71 degrees F... B

Semantics, really. You have the right idea so don't be confused. Low gear/high gears VS tall/short gears. Why a 'tall' gear would have lower ratio is bass-ackwards to me, must be based on visual comparison... B

^I'm with this. I've done about a dozen strut/spring replacements, all with manual, bolt style compressors, and it is just a lot of elbow grease and ratcheting, going from one side to another to keep them properly tensioned. I wouldn't consider power tools for the spring compression either, instead ratcheting wrenches worked for me. You really don't want a spring getting loose... Power tools for the strut unit removal/installing would be fine, but for most jobs I usually just grab the manual tools and the curse book. B

Hello Jeff, welcome to NPORA! It is always good to have another fellow enthusiast and fabricator, especially for the limited Nissan aftermarket. I'm surprised you made a mold for the spacers, no matter how simple, simply because I wouldn't think that there is that much demand for them. (last job was in an injection molding facility) Regardless, they should be a good, consistent product then, and I wish you luck! As you can see on the NPORA site, there are no ads, pop-ups or spam what so ever and the only 'advertising' ser se is in a specific Vendor section in the Classifieds area off the main forum page. Not only have we striven to keep NPORA spam free, the vendors that are allowed to post here have been carefully vetted as well. Unfortunately there have been past issues with people failing to follow through with transactions, and since that reflects poorly on our forum (people associate advertisement with endorsement) we strictly follow a few rules and methods. One of them is rule #6 of the NPORA Guidelines: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/389-npora-guidelines/ Since there is interest in your lifts and someone vouching for you already, I'll leave this thread open so people can ask questions and provide additional feedback on your product and service. Once you have a history of positive feedback, please contact the staff to request a review for a Vendor account. This doesn't cost anything, it is just an approval and account status change, but what you do get is your own permanent thread in the Classifieds/Vendors section. That is as much visibility as is possible on this site and should increase business. I am sure you understand... Until then, I recommend you put a tasteful link to your business/services in your signature. That way you are not running afoul the No Spam rule, your 'advertisement' only appears when you post/interact, a subtle but significant difference. Please work with us on this matter, and we will be happy to work with you. Feel free to contact any of the staff with any questions, concerns, issues, etc. So that aside, what other materials or form factors might you be interested in working with? There are quite a few items that people would be interested in... B

Wake up from his dream... 1:4.63 gears, so taller gearing=less RPM. Again, depends on the axle gearing and tranny type., even speed limit and terrain. The general concensus is to run less than 3,000 rpm but over 2,500rpm at cruising speed or it may bog a little and/or downshift on slopes or headwind. This is with a stock VG30 of course; most people report increased power but the same mileage with a VG33 transplant. Simply too many variables to say 'this tire size is the best'... B

Congrats, that should save a lot of embarassment... B

Spray the friction points, yes. May have to use a Q-tip and let it dry, but yes, drag is part of the issue and less is better. (unless you like that kind of thing, which is ok... ) B

^x2. Hopefully the shop checked the fuel pressure before and after the pressure regulator, because that is the only way to identify the issue that I know of. B

Lets see... 48F now with a high of 68 and a low of 42. (9C...20...5) B

Contact Thorley, I believe they have a life time gaurentee and will weld them up for free. A couple of people have had to do that IIRC. Of course, you are down for the time it takes... B

Yeah, you tend to lose a lot of steering, but the control arm bushings and bolts should hold it together for a little while. Seriously though, being in a salt state and 200k, from what I have seen here they have to be ready to fail... B

I like how the temperature doesn't really even change even when the sun is out for hours... B

*snort* At this point, just leave them be. The rods will be snapping any time now, so just change them then... B

^Pretty much... SteeevO did a conversion years ago, but I can't recall if he first used Nissan components or if he went straight to a SAS (with Dana44 IIRC). Lotta work! I told him to just sell it and buy a 4wd Pathy... B

It is stuck there from last year... B