Precise1

In the Garage section there is a pinned thread with a link for a FSM download. Download 1999 and 2000, and you have yours bracketed. I can only assume the info is there, I do not know it myself. Have you checked the tranny brain for fault codes? It might tell you something of value... B

Dorman sounds right, I think that is what I used when I replaced one on a 1996. Not too expensive, but a PITA, mainly because you have to drop the cat that hangs off of it, the down pipe and at least loosen the Y IIRC. The real problem is not a lot of room to work, so jack stands, extensions with swivleys and small hands are a bonus. Also, make sure to remove the O2 first, and with the right tool. You'll need the manifold, the manifold gasket, the gasket to the cat and the one after. I threw the heat shield away... Download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and look at the exploded view, it will make it all clear. Welcome to NPORA! I remember bamajoe, it has been a while... I hope he is doing good. Also, please put the year of your pathfinder in your description, it helps make sure you get accurate information. B Oh, check out Rock Auto for the manifold, and we have a discount code in the Classifieds section for them as well. Only 5% IIRC, but everything helps, right?

As was said above... You pay for the vehicle one way or another. A lot up front and in payments for something that is newer/doesn't need work, or a little up front and some for the repairs as they come up for something older. That is just the nature of things, and you'll find that going the 'little up front' route is considerably cheaper in the long run. It isn't always convenient though... One thing you'll learn is that experienced people will often sell vehicles before major work/parts are due, ie. 150k and it will need a clutch soon, every 100k for the timing belt, runs great but tires are worn, etc. If you stay in the used car market, you'll learn what to look for and investigate the maintenance schedule of vehicles before you buy them. I've bought a few that needed $2k worth of work and then were reliable for years as well as some that were full of surprises. B

Glad to hear, that is about the easiest fix there is... B

Are there any fault codes stored in the ECU? B

Well, it is hard to tell from the recording, it just isn't like being there... Have you used a mechanic's stethescope or metal rod (long screw driver) to try to pin point the source? So, one of the cams rotated when you removed it's pully? Did you move it back? When you put the new belt on, the cam pulleys were indexed to the reference marks, and the tooth count between the cam pulleys and the sam/crank pulley was 40 and 43? That should mean everything is lined up... Did the old belt break, or was this a maintenance job? How long has it been sitting, could one of the lifers have drained or collapsed? It seems to idle smooth other than the noise, could you still be having (dizzy) timing issues? B

Ahh, so you are lazy. Got it... That is a big Just Kidding, for the record. So it is what you have gotten used to... Ok, good enough for me. I generally have a 'if it ain't broke' attitude myself, which is why I asked. You don't have to sell your Prius to me, but it seems you still have some insecurities about it. B

Don't misunderstand, but why? You still need the right item to start the car and still have to follow a set protocol. What is the benefit over just using a key? It is cool though, and looks 'factory'. B

B

Hey, another thought... I have a '99 in the driveway as well, and I can take a picture of the dizzy position clocked to something that should be the same from truck to truck. Not going to be perfect, but should be a good place to start or at least damn close. Let me know, I can do it first thing tomorrow... B

^Step one, it has happened to me as well. B

You can also slather some RTV on the outside of the seal as well, assuming you cleaned/can clean things off fairly well (isopropyl alcohol works well). Unless you wheel a lot/have really nasty weather, and considering it is the upper cover, I really don't think it is critical, more a safe than sorry approach. I feel dirty now... B

^ Good call! No idea how much it moved? They to move it 'back', start it and see how it runs, then time it by ear at idle and then high idle, finishing with test drives (while having the wrench with you). The ECU will adjust the timing to some degree so you don't have to be spot on, and it should run well enough to get to the mechanic's a few degrees off anyway. Just don't let it ping (pre-detonate from over advanced timing). You can't borrow a light from anyone? Also Harbor Freight has timing lights for $20 regular price, and if they aren't on sale, I can sent you a 20% off coupon... B

Thanks for the information, I only knew about 1/2 of that. So I might have been on to something... B

That is strange... Are there any fault codes stored in the ECU? B Also, I deleted several duplicate threads you posted and duplicate posts in other threads. Please do not do that, it confuses the issue and is against the rules. If you do not desist, your account will be suspended.

Pretty cool, but way overpriced in my book, and I'd question parts availability... B

^Exactly! "bumped up the fuel pressure"??? I didn't know that was possible. I'll try to look it up tomorrow, but I suspect he might have been feeding you BS. B

You are welcome, but sorry, yes, that is what I have always done; just buy another one... To hold things still while you loosen the bolts, but unless they are rusted in place, this shouldn't be necessary. They are only 10 and 12mm nuts and bolts and you can hold onto the fan somewhat to keep things from rotating if you don't take it completely off first. B

Then there is where they have egged out the hole through the frame, lost the bushing cups and corroded enough that the rods snap. Nothing wrong with the design, but they should be checked at reasonable intervals (I recommend 60k miles) and more frequently in salt country. B

Isn't that covered in this thread? If not, searching didn't bring up the answers? Not being dismissive, and old threads are good, they keep things in one place. The steering shaft has to be extended and it can take some effort, but many people have done it without issues installing the 3" lift. It works... The shifter is a lever with a fixed pivot point. The lower you drop the pivot point (raise the body), the farther the lever has to throw to make the same movement at the pivot, and at some point it will interfere with the size of the stock hole. Some have welded/bent theirs so notching the metal is unnecessary, and I have a 2" lift with a Hardbody shifter (longer and bent slightly different as Hardbodys came with a 1.5" 'lift') and have no issues what so ever. B

I'm a beginner with this, so please be gentle, but doesn't the cable length, condition and routing have a bit to do with signal rating? Maybe mess with that first to see if there are any gains? B

Yes, EM-19 verifies this. 133 teeth total, 40 between cams and 43 from driver's cam to crank mark. Other than the displacement, I think the biggest difference between the VG30 and VG33 is the location of the oil filter... B

A lot of timing belt threads lately! Ok, so it sounds like your best bet is to rotate the crank until you are at TDC, the dizzy rotor is pointing at/near cyl #1 contact, align the cam gears to the marks reasonably close, put the belt on with 40 teeth between cam gear marks and 43 between drivers cam and crank gear. Does your belt have marks on it? If not, counting out and marking the edge might help you. There is a very good thread in the Garage/How To section (written by a Nissan mechanic) that goes through the timing belt process, and the discussion afterwards should answer any other questions. Obviously ask any other questions you might have, but that is where I recommend you start looking for answers. B

LC-9 in the FSM basically doesn't say anything about rebuilding it and doesn't even have an exploded view so... I think I see how to disassemble it, but have never considered trying to rebuild one. If it has play or feels crunchy, the shaft might be scored, but other than that it is 'take it apart and find out' in my book. Ok, because I was curious... by a mechanic with a Nissan part. (With the runway at St Martin and a gratuitous turtle) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpzJsav3rsw And... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_GkuTgJr3w I'd say you are SOL, but... Hurah, hurah, sis-boom-bah! Take it apart! Take it apart! Yay! B

Thanks for supplying the link Slart. I'm sorry, I had to go back and correct my post about when the throw out bearing is under load. Trying to go too fast, I guess... Download all the files, but you are looking for CL and the bleeding proceedure is on page 7. I had to replace my clutch at about 140k because it was starting to slip. The pressure plate was tired and not pushing the clutch all the way against the fly wheel so it was down to the rivets on the outside edge. The throw out bearing felt pretty chunky but wasn't making any noise. Yes, don't wait too long. Not trying to scare you, but if the TOB siezes, it can break fingers off of the pressure plate which can get bound up in things. It shouldn't damage anything that isn't being replaced, but it could mean being broken down somewhere. Besides, who wants to listen to that noise? As for the power, check the base timing as well. The ECU makes it's own adjustments to some degree, but people have reported better response/power by advancing it a bit from the 15 BTDC IIRC. B