Precise1

Yes, go through your wiring first, most people find them adequate at that point. Some better bulbs help as well, some Sylvania coming to mind but I can't recall the exact info. (well covered in previous threads) Download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, it will have wiring diagram that should be the same. The other way to go is install fog or driving lights and aim them so you can use them on the street as well. I have 2 Hella fogs and 2 Hella HIDs on mine (in addition to stock lights), but haven't done the bulb/relay work yet. At that point, I suspect the headlights and fogs will take care of everything I need, while the HIDs are good to warn the crappy HID/projector crowd; I get highbeam flashed with them @ 1/8 mile+. Lighting is totally subjective to needs, uses and wants. Just make sure you get what you need without compromising someone else. Funny story on a long, slow, open, straight away... An on coming car with very bright lights so I flip on the high beams. They hit high beams, I assume (me thinking it was too bright to begin with) so I flipped on the fog lights. They turned on another set of lights (I can't see crap now), and then I fired up the HIDs. They turn on with a flashbulb ignition, then warm to brightness... Lights start shutting down on the other vehicle and I drop all mine down as well. Maybe it was just the effect, but I swear his low lights weren't as bright as I had seen that started it all. B

Slow? Did you use silicone sealant? Started it, ran it for 1/2 an hour with the doors open, heater/AC on and moved it back and forth a few times. Harder than it sounded as the battery was @ 4.8 volts and my trickle charger would just tap out. Had to jumper it with a spare battery and then hook up the trickle charger to that until I had enough to crank. Fired on the 4th rotation... B

So your RPM gauge is jumping without the engine running? If so... Remove the gauge cluster and check the brass screws on the back of the flexible circuit board (they are the ground points). Check all connections for corrosion and fit, and there is also a voltage regulator that can fail IIRC, but you would have to search for that info, I don't recall it. B

Running the lower amp unit won't hurt anything, and probably wasn't the issue (if it functioned correctly), as running a higher amp won't hurt. The amp rating just stated how much power it can provide if needed, it isn't being forced anywhere. Look at it this way, Watts=Volts X Amps. The electrical systm is 12 volts (yes, they tend to run slightly higher, but the point is that it doesn't change) times 60 or 70 amps = 720 or 840 watts respectively of the maximum power they can supply. Your vehicle doesn't use all of it unless you have high draw aftermarket items. B

AFAIK all the R50's came with drive flanges that were permanently engaged, not auto locking hubs. Replacing them with manual selectable hubs does definitely reduce front end drive train wear and might increase gas mileage. B

^exaclty, and when checking the connections, take a good look at the ground strap for the battery and it's connections at the chassis/motor. A cheat test is the battery at rest, 12.5ish volts in good shape, VS 14 volts running if charging and B

^this, and a change of fluid, specifically for LSD, might help things if it has been a while. Try removing the hubs, disassembing them (one at a time so you have an assembly reference), checking for obvious damage, reassembling with very light grease coating and trying it again. Also, download a copy of the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the garage section to get an expladed view of the assembly. B

There are a few threads on snorkels here, talking about the different types, home made ones, diameters, flow, etc. The general concensus is that is doesn't hurt power, it is true cold air intake and can have a tiny bit of ram affect at speed. Still worth reading up on though, not all snorkels are equal. B

It it engaged all the way? Is the snap ring in place on the other side of the rear cross member? B

I was trying to steer the information in the right direction, as SpecialWarr supplied so well, and jar memories as to the thread I'm thinking of. You are welcome... B

That looks like a good place. Protected, out of the way, and easy to get to... B

I recall the difference being the depth of the tank, but I don't know if there were dimensions listed. B

Very good catch, they appear quite different. I was just going by part number and gear ratio, I should have known better... Hey, he didn't say he intended to keep it a 4x4. B

Dirty Girl is right! I think those are new slime mild life forms there... B

I'm pretty sure it is the same transmission. According to page MT-56 of the 1994 FSM, all D21 and WD21 (2 and 4wd) that have the VG30E motor also have the FS5R30A transmission and gearing. The only difference is that a 2wd D21 would have different gearing. B

You can also check the current at hot and cold to see if they are within spec first. I believe the acceptable range/test proceedure is stated in the FSM, but .1v cold and 1v hot comes to mind. B

Agreed, keep your current tranny, and work on getting a few more ponies. I don't know if you can port the TBI, but headers/exhaust would help a bit as well as cams if you can go that far. What size tires are on it? B

Yes, I'm almost certain that the gearing for the R50 is different as it has a 10% larger motor (vg33) until 2000, 2001-2004 came with the VQ35 only in NA from what I have seen. There is a very recent thread where outlined the difference in gearing... Here:http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39277-5th-gear-woes-in-a-91/?hl=gearing&do=findComment&comment=741011 In the 87-95, the gearing ratios, from 1st to 5th go like this: 4.061 || 2.357 || 1.490 || 1.000 || 0.862. For the 1996 R50: 3.580 2.077 1.360 1.000 0.811 B

^pretty much. No need to use a sledgehammer when a wiffle ball bat will do the trick, especially if you have already removed 1 of the bolts. Stout they are not! It might help thinking of it as a signal light holder instead of a bumper... If you go to the garage section and download a Factory Service manual from the pinned thread, BF-6 will show you a basic expanded view, and the rest of the manual is pretty handy as well... B

The spacer will have to have a small relief in it and a thru hole for the air lin, but yes if it is solid other than that, then the airlift 'bags' should work fine. I suspect the reason for the different spring numbers is because they went with a more powerful motor in 2001 which would increase the towing capacity, so maybe the later version has a slightly stiffer spring rate to increase tongue weight capacity as well? Just speculation... B

Well, the 3.0 can't really pull much more than that ratio other than on the flats anyway, so it isn't a huge loss. I can't recall if the gears are different for the 1995, much less how much, but IIRC the tranny for the R50 has some different gears in it not to mention the repositioned fill hole so that would be ideal. B For the 1996 R50: 3.580 2.077 1.360 1.000 0.811 Interestingly enough, the manual also states that there is no change in the gearing for a 1995 WD21, and a 2wd D21 with the VG30E will have the same gearing listed for the 1996 R50. This info can easily be found in at the bottom of the MT section of the FSM, under Service Data and Specifications...

Yep, someone else reported the same issue here and even posted a video IIRC... B

The stock size Yokohama tires run at 2,500 rpm at 68-70 mph, just checked it today. B

You are welcome, I'm glad it all worked out fairly easily. B

Yes. Red has given you the best info... B